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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, first time writer long time reader. I have this 64 Galaxie 500, givin to me by my father in law, when I retired from the military. (didn't know it was in there). I want to install a tachometer but the 1964 shop manual states a specific way to install the tachometer. Connect techometer red lead to the tachometer block red terminal and black lead to the black terminal. My question is where do the green wire go without damaging the ignition system. ( I know the tachometer instructions states to place on the neg side of the coil ). Don't want ignition system troubles, the car has 33,000 miles on it and I put a battery in it, turn the crank shaft by hand, checked the plugs then placed a little oil inside the chambers, then started it up. Shes a runner with some rust.

Thank you for your support.
 

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Do you know what the third wire is for? I have a Stewart Warner with two wires just connected to the tach block. My tach does not have an internal light.
I have the factory diagram showing a Sun (with seperate sender) and that is also just 2 wires to the tach block.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes sir! The wht lead is for tach lamp
the blk lead is the ground connection
the red lead is for the hot terminal
the green lead is suppose to go to the -neg post of the coil.
My question sir is, will this change any of the permatune ignition's transistor functions. 1964 shop manual states to connect blk and red to the tach block of the permatune system only, no mention of connection to the coil. It also states that damage to the transistor may occur. ( where in the world would I get another transistor if damage occurs? ). I'm just being safe.
 

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Perhaps the black could be grounded to the chassis and the red and green go across the tach block? I definitely would not chance connecting anything to the coil. I think I have a Shop Tips somewhere that discusses tach installation. I will see if I can find it. Otherwise I'm stumped.
Are you going to Carlisle in two weeks?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll be awaiting for the shop tip, thanks
it's back to work in San Antonio, Tx for a month then San Diego, Ca don't know how long.
Don't have much down time, it's the job, it's family, it's life and it's cool.
 

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ssghill, would this link be of assistance? It comes from the 427 Registry, run by the excellent Dave Walters.

Rotunda tach wiring


That Rotunda tach wiring bulletin is on the Tech Page on the 427 Registry site. You might contact Mr. Walters with additional questions. He is a wealth of knowledge and has helped me countless times with questions and advice about our car.
 

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There you go. That is the Shop Tips I was thinking of. Unfortunately that does not answer the question though.

ssghill, would this link be of assistance? It comes from the 427 Registry, run by the excellent Dave Walters.

Rotunda tach wiring


That Rotunda tach wiring bulletin is on the Tech Page on the 427 Registry site. You might contact Mr. Walters with additional questions. He is a wealth of knowledge and has helped me countless times with questions and advice about our car.
 

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I'll be awaiting for the shop tip, thanks
it's back to work in San Antonio, Tx for a month then San Diego, Ca don't know how long.
Don't have much down time, it's the job, it's family, it's life and it's cool.
If you need a Galaxie fix while you are in SD, send me a PM and we'll meet up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Funny thing, It don't have any 427 badge any where. Got another for ya, on the fire wall it's written 63Q and the block is stamped C3AE 6015. The engine 4V is cross-bolted, factory headers and T10B-1 Borg-Warner trans 4 speed on the floor, 33,000 miles, I'm the second owner.
 

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Missing badges is possible.
63 on the firewall tag is the Model code for 2 door hardtop.
C3AE means it was engineered for the 1963 model year (most of the 427 stuff wasn't revised by Ford from 1963 thru the end of 1964).
The BW 4 speed came in 1962, 1963 and was being phased out in favor of the Ford Toploader 4 speed. Some cars had BW some had toploaders depending on when they were built and which plant built them.

I thought the Perma-Tune decal would be on the resistor cover. Interesting it is on the inner fender.

Funny thing, It don't have any 427 badge any where. Got another for ya, on the fire wall it's written 63Q and the block is stamped C3AE 6015. The engine 4V is cross-bolted, factory headers and T10B-1 Borg-Warner trans 4 speed on the floor, 33,000 miles, I'm the second owner.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks BH107, that's cool. I was install a new point contact and while, setting the initial timing I noticed a leak at the carburetor that was fill up that area on top of the manifold. turned off the engine and found the leak coming from the accellerator pump at the bottom of the carburetor (I think?). Holley 4160, 750cfm double pump. Pulled the front section off and I think the diaphagm is bad, never seen one before what you think. It's cracking when you push the center up, you know to the ball inside there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK! I pulled the primary accelerator pump diaphragm off to see and get this, went to autozone and found a 4150/4160 rebuild kit with a primary pump diaphragm, gaskets and other assemblies for the carburetor from $12.99. Installed and leak is sealed. (a great day),
Now do anybody have some information about this tachometer issue I've been asking about installing with a permatune transistor ignition without damaging the transistors? I seen the site recommended with putting a stunt in between the red and black wire after the tachometer but If I'm not taking that correctly it only re-directs the overture current to the ground. After study, this is what I think, see below. Awww! I left my diagram down stairs, show ya in a few.
ssghill, tried and true, whoooa!
 
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