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Discussion Starter #1
My 63 seems to stop fine right now with 4 wheel manual drums, but since I drive it a lot now, I can't help but think about doing a front disc swap, maybe even going to power brakes.

What I was thinking is using Granada rotors and calipers with my original spindles, and helping a friend of mine fab some caliper brackets. He builds race cars and has made a lot of caliper brackets for those, so I'm confident about that part of it.

What I'm really curious about is what master cylinder and/or booster to use. Wether I decide to stay manual or go power, I want everything to look like it belongs there. Kind of a "day 2" kind of look. I was thinking of maybe a master cylinder and/or booster from about a 68 Mustang or an early Maverick, maybe Granada. I do know and have done some reading about how the components are matched. What I mean by that is that the master cylinder bore size, length of travel, and wheel cylinder/caliper bore has to all work together, and if they don't problems with performance can be experienced.

Any thoughts?
 

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Hey 351, I have a 66 Fairlane and went with this conversion kit....

Welcome to CSRP

I did a swap 1 kit for around $600 and it came with everything except for the new brake lines but that's an easy fix. I also have the manual front disc set up which is so much better then front drum brakes. The swap 1 kit uses your current spindles which will save you some bucks for other cool stuff! Dennis is very helpful and can answer any questions you might have. I'm waiting for his rear brake conversion kit right now and plan on getting it......btw all the parts are Ford parts and can be had just about anywhere.

I'm very satisfied with his kit.
 

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I agree with Rickracer... CSRP has the best for the buck conversion. I went with power brakes first and it's a big difference from manual. Eventually I did the disc swap due to freeway driving- there's brake fade with the drum brakes and going with disc is much safer.

Go power disc brake conversion... easy install. I advise you to go ahead and replace all your suspension goodies while you have them apart. You won't regret it. :D
 

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On m '63 Falcon Ranchero, I used disc brakes from a '77 Mercury Comet (same as a Maverick) that was in the local junk yard. I bought a power brake booster and master clyinder from ABS Power Brake (link - ABS Power Brake, Inc.).

On my '65 Falcon, I used disc brakes from a '67 Mustang. For the master cylinder (manual), I used one from a '83 Ford Ranger (bought at Autozone).

In both cases, I used the spindles, caliphers, etc. from the donor car, so there was no need to fabercate any brackets, etc.
 

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OK, I got a question here. I'm going to do the same type of conversion on my '64 Fairlane. Looking at the fire wall, I can see no way to mount a vacuum booster master cylinder in the stock location because of the wind shield wiper motor. It is right next to the small, single chamber stock master cylinder. How did you other guys do it?
 

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I have manual disc/drum on my 64 Fairlane. In my opinion it stops great, no need for power disc. Granada master cyl.

My 65 Falcon is manual disc/disc, also stops great. Using a Fox body Mustang master cyl.

I don't feel that eithe car needs power assist. Just my .02 though.

Jet
 

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On my 66 I don't have room for a booster so I've got manual disc brakes as well. My pedal is firm and it's better stopping power then drums for sure. The master cylinder you get from CSRP is off a power booster unit, there are better ones out there like off a 83 ranger. I might use that one next when my current master cylinder goes bad.

Putting the front disc brakes, front sway bar and pertronic ignition on my 66 are the best mods I've done to date. I plan on doing a lot more but cash is tight right now so future mods will be slow to come.

If you plan on going faster you better stop faster too. :D
 

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Good advise. I'm going to look for the biggest non-power master cylinder that fill fit so as to have the least amount of foot pressure without boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think I'm going to just go with manual front discs, and try to find a larger bore master cylinder.

I have manual discs on my 68 Mustang and even with 3.5" front wheels it still stops great. The pedal effort really isn't hard at all in that car, and it still really suprises me how quick and hard it stops when need to.
 

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I just bought the kit from csrp for my 65.Does someone have a couple of pictures as to how they plumbed the lines from the master cylinder to prop.valve and such.I'm trying to get an idea as how to mount this to my car.Thanks
 

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Mtorrider - Your question re- wiper motor in the way, your right, if you want to use a power booster anyway. I'm using a p.booster off a Mustang 11, with a 98 GT M.C. for 4 wheel disc brakes.
to clear the wiper motor, simply remove it, seperate the motor from the mount & flip the motor 180 degrees, bolt back on mount & mount as it was. Your wiper motor now faces to the left & gives you plenty of room to mount the Mustang 11 p.booster, Yes, your wipers work & park as stock.
I did run 4 wheel disc (Granada fronts, Cr.vic rears) but, when we switched to Wilwood 4 piston fronts & Curries rear disc kit, pedal feel was to hard & it took allot of muscle to stop her. With the addition of the Mustang 11 booster,i have just the best pedal feel/control.
 

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Good advise. I'm going to look for the biggest non-power master cylinder that fill fit so as to have the least amount of foot pressure without boost.
You want a smaller bore to reduce pedal effort. Unless you have huge calipers less than 1" is fine. I used Granada Disc drum master with front discs. I used a 93 Mustang Cobra master on 4 wheel discs with good results but a 96 or so V6 one may be even better. I think they all are 7/8 or 15/16 bore.
 

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Thanks you guys, I just read your responses. That's a great tip on reversing the wiper motor Roger, I'm going to check that out. I really would like to run a vacuum booster if possible.
 

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Also new here! I know this will be an easy answer for oyu guys in the know here! lol
I just picked up a 1963 Comet 2 door post, all original with straight 6 cyl. First upgrade is rear end and 4 wheel disc:

I want a 9 inch rear with disc. There's lots of stuff here on the front disc conversion, but not a lot on the rear. There's a couple 1998-2000 explorers kicking around and was hoping just a straight swap with some mods and I'm done. Thanks very much!
 

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I'm going to do the same type of conversion on my '64 Fairlane.
The photo of your engine-



Is it a 260 or 289? I see the 289 decal on the rocker cover. Is the decal OEM or aftermarket? If OEM, can you take a close-up of it?

I now return the board to regular programing after hi-jacking the thread.
 

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Kultuz - Thats a 289 special decal that Ford used on some 289's,
If i recall though, they were usually placed on the front of the valve cover at the factory.
contrary to popular belief, the 289 special was not another version of the 289, but, simply a special decal!
 

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Also new here! I know this will be an easy answer for oyu guys in the know here! lol
I just picked up a 1963 Comet 2 door post, all original with straight 6 cyl. First upgrade is rear end and 4 wheel disc:

I want a 9 inch rear with disc. There's lots of stuff here on the front disc conversion, but not a lot on the rear. There's a couple 1998-2000 explorers kicking around and was hoping just a straight swap with some mods and I'm done. Thanks very much!
You could go with a Explorer 8.8" and cut 3" from the drivers side tube, then install a passenger side axle into the drivers side. Tech section has a good write-up on this.

Or get a 8" or 9" rear and use Crown Vic rear disc on it. I think you will need spacer rings to center the rotor up on the axle flange.

Jet
 
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