[sportsroof70]

I have power now and the valve needs replaced.
I am considering going manual and have a 351W and
will run modest size front rubber (70 or 60 series 15 or 16&quot

.
Any ideas???
Go or no go??
Why??
Thanks!!
Todd

 

[thekingofazle]

What car?

I've got 235's on the front of my '67 Mustang and manual steering - its a little tough in parking lots, but it isn't horrible. If you've got a 351 and a heavier car, it'll increase the effort a little bit, but it's really a matter of preference.

 

[sportsroof70]

1970 sportback Mustang. Kingo, your 235's are what profile, 60 or 70 series??
I figured on more parking effort but how is the handling of the manual mustang vs the power steering mustang?? I like a quick ratio steering and therefore will probably put up with parking effort.

_________________
1970 Mustang Fastback 351W C4 project car soon to get 383 gears and an Auburn limited slip in the 9" rear!!
2001 7.3L Excursion TurboDiesel
2000 VW Jetta TDI with Rocketchip 3.1 euro and 19" wheels
1996 6.5L Suburban TurboDiesel

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 70sportback on 4/8/06 9:39pm ]</font>

 

[thekingofazle]

The 235's are... 60's I think... I don't have access to the vehicle right now (I'm at college and its at home away from the evils of parking lots)

I am quite impressed with the handling, but I have also installed the Negative Wedge kit and have 620# springs on the front. It handles way better than a stocker.

Road feel is also excellent. I just bought mustangs plus's power to manual adapter, since I had a power steering draglink. I just kicked the ram and pump to the curb.

I have a Flaming River quick ratio box, and it is a bit tedious in parking lots with small rows, but I think it is worth the added road feel, and the decrease in cost and complexity. I know it saved me over 700 bucks in new power steering equipment, and I have never had a single problem with a hose, pump, or otherwise, because there are none. My sister's '68 had problems for a while with hoses. (Headers burning them up, them bursting, etc.)

I personally love the feel of it. (I also have manual disc brakes, and would not trade them for powers if you paid me)

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thekingofazle on 4/10/06 2:01pm ]</font>

 

[sportsroof70]

Thanks for the info!
I'm definately going for the manual!!
Todd

 

[thekingofazle]

Good luck! Keep us posted!

 

[sportsroof70]

Will do! First I must go with 389 gears and an auburn posi!!!
If anyone has either or a complete 9" center section let me know!!
Todd

 

[dacofa]

You'll have to change the pitman arm and the center linkage, unless you do the conversion kit one. The bad thing is the steering box is a different ratio for manual and power systems. Personally jusy getting rid of all the hoses and leaks is well worth the extra arm muscle it takes to turn the wheels.

 

[sportsroof70]

Dacofa, I totally agree!
I think the manual unit is a 16:1 ratio. Not sure what the power one
is but doesn't matter!
I'll keep you guys posted!
Todd

 

[Lucafu1]

i have two 9" center sections complete. they are pulled apart and need to be cleaned and rebuilt ( I would atleast). one has 3.10s and the other 4.11s (both open). if your interested let me know [email protected]

 

[Cain]

Go with manual steering and never look back. http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/all-ford-techboard/how-bad-is-non-ps-in-a-68-my-flaming-river-kit-wont-take-headers_37709.html

 

[GMH351]

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I'm looking into a r&p setup soon as well. Keep in mind that steering wheel size is part of the turning effort as well- I went from a stock s/w to a 14" grant wheel and noticed things got harder to turn when parking. Stock manual box w/265's up front. A side benefit is that my wife drove my car once and doesn't like the steering effort