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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installing suspension compontents, I have not put the torque wrench on it other than my bicep wrench. But it doesnt look like the tie rod ends are seating into the drag link. Only showing about 1/8 inch of threads above the castle nut, and not even compressing the boot at all.

Is there a trick or does this sound right?
 

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sounds like you got the wrong tie rods. the stud size is different for 65-66 , 67-69(?) , 69boss 302 and all 70. 65-66 has a 3/8" thread and small tapered stud , 69b2 and all 70 has a 1/2" thread and larger stud. my moog book list these numbers for inner tie rods. V8 65-66 ES713........all 67-69 ES364RL.........69 boss and all 70 ES387L. these numbers are from my 1997 MOOG chassis master catalog book a guy at a parts house i did business with gave me years ago. the tapered tie rod stud sould seat all the way in and the nut should go on finger tight with a few threads sticking past before tightening. 65-69(except boss) torque to 30-40ftlbs and if need be tighten to nearest castle nut slot , do not back off. 69 boss and all 70 tighten to 35-47 ftlbs and if need be tighten to nearest castle nut slot. the ford manual list torque specs. i worked as an auto mechanic from 1973-1983 and did a lot of from steering and suspension rebuilds on all car including 65-73 mustangs. AND the 67-70 inner tie rods are about 2 or 3 inches longer than the 65-66.
 

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The holes are tapered and the tierods only go in one way. If you have them insert correctly then you have the wrong tierods or link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys, key being they tie rod face should cinch up pretty close on the drag link? Right now I have about an inch, or better put, the rubber cup is just touching the link face.

This is causing the tie rod end to not clear the header on the driver side.
I am using the same drag link, but did buy the suspension kit from CJ. I think I kept the old tie rods, I will compare. The link fits the pitman and idler arm just fine, but again, using those again. I did check the number on the pitman arm, and it is indeed a 67 Man pitman arm.

Guessing those fine Chinese tie rod ends are in question. The spindle ends worked just fine though. Thanks, Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright, took this thing back apart, my inner tie rod is dragging on my header, mostly in part due to what we think is a header issue. So MPG is going to fix it.

Now for the Tie Rods, the replacements are the same size, taper as the ones I took off. I am using the same drag link, so it should all be good to go.

I couldnt get these to seat, at least I dont think I did, you tell me. The cups were just touching, the end I took off were pretty crushed. I did have to beat it back out, even though it didnt appear to be seated. About an inch between the tie rod face, and drag link.

A does this sound right.
B. Aside from torqueing to 40 ft lbs (?) will have to re look that up, does it need help seating?
 

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Do the castle nuts go down far enough that you can insert the cotter pins on the tierods?
 

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Alright, took this thing back apart, my inner tie rod is dragging on my header, mostly in part due to what we think is a header issue. So MPG is going to fix it.

Now for the Tie Rods, the replacements are the same size, taper as the ones I took off. I am using the same drag link, so it should all be good to go.

I couldnt get these to seat, at least I dont think I did, you tell me. The cups were just touching, the end I took off were pretty crushed. I did have to beat it back out, even though it didnt appear to be seated. About an inch between the tie rod face, and drag link.

A does this sound right.
B. Aside from torqueing to 40 ft lbs (?) will have to re look that up, does it need help seating?
can you post some fotos ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do the castle nuts go down far enough that you can insert the cotter pins on the tierods?
Yes, I get a few threads, and can insert a cotter key. I guess I am just concerned that the dust cap is not compressing at all, while the tie rods on the spindles crank down. i will post some pics this weekend. Also will measure the tappered shoulder depth vs the drag link and see what that leaves me.

Thanks
 
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