I recently put a 270h magnum cam in my 72 maverick 302. after everything is done and it's time to set the timing, the only wat it runs right is when its advanced to 18 degrees. Am I doing something wrong? any feeback will be greatly appreciated.
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Is it possible your balancer has slipped? There is nothing wrong with running 18 degrees of inital timing as long as total timing doesnt cause ping or spark knock. But i would have to bet somthing has slipped, been bent (timing pointer) ect. Also your timing light my be wrong. I would verify top dead center is rite first then try another timing light.
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If she ~RUNS~ She ~RUNS~... Timing marks Shmiming marks....
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Is it possible your balancer has slipped? There is nothing wrong with running 18 degrees of inital timing as long as total timing doesnt cause ping or spark knock. But i would have to bet somthing has slipped, been bent (timing pointer) ect. Also your timing light my be wrong. I would verify top dead center is rite first then try another timing light
Had this happen myself. We always had a problem timing our car by the balancer. It would never run right idle or at speed unless we did it by ear and checked the plugs after every pass until it was correct When we rebuilt the engine and degreed the engine we found ours had slipped. Since we have replaced it we marked both the hub and ring with an engraved line to keep track of any motion.
Had this happen myself. We always had a problem timing our car by the balancer. It would never run right idle or at speed unless we did it by ear and checked the plugs after every pass until it was correct When we rebuilt the engine and degreed the engine we found ours had slipped. Since we have replaced it we marked both the hub and ring with an engraved line to keep track of any motion.
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18 degree is fine. i run that much in my street car
I ran 22 in my old Mustang. 20 in the old truck (both 302's) and never had a minutes problem with either one. Both were 9:1 and iron factory heads with a similar cam. Heck I ran 16 in my '95 F150 and it ran fine. Even picked up a little bottom end responsiveness that way.
If it's running ok, no pinging/knocking or hard starting, just leave it alone. Might be a good idea to check the total advance though, just to get an idea. Some duraspark distributors can have as much as 44 deg. of mech. advance so it might be a good idea to check it out. 44 mech. + 18 initial = 62 degrees. That wouldn't be good....
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"it is better to appear ignorant than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"--Mark Twain
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mavman on 3/29/06 10:19am ]</font>
If it's running ok, no pinging/knocking or hard starting, just leave it alone. Might be a good idea to check the total advance though, just to get an idea. Some duraspark distributors can have as much as 44 deg. of mech. advance so it might be a good idea to check it out. 44 mech. + 18 initial = 62 degrees. That wouldn't be good....
_________________
"it is better to appear ignorant than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"--Mark Twain
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mavman on 3/29/06 10:19am ]</font>
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Guy's... my friggin 460 in my '83 4x4 run's a factory 6* btc... when the vacuum advance is hooked up she run's 25* btc, when I hit the gas teh mechanical's pick it up to nearly 50* BTC... and the only ill effects is that from 500-2500 rpm's in gear it's a slug... but from 2500 to 5500 rpm's that ugly fat heavy mutha zooms right NOW.... I like my timing to max out in this 460 at about 22-24* she has good overall responce from about 1,000 to the red-line.
Like I said,, if she ~~RUNS~~ she runs! 18 is fine but listen to her, if she talks to you you can always back it off a little...
FE
Like I said,, if she ~~RUNS~~ she runs! 18 is fine but listen to her, if she talks to you you can always back it off a little...
FE
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