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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Fellas
I am getting a new complete 4:11 8" rear to replace my current 3:00 soon and was wondering if you guys had any tips that I need to know before I start? Or do I just pull the axles, take out the carrier, put the new one in, fill it with oil and put the axles back in? Sounds too simple. It can't be that easy, can it?
Thanks!
Matt

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dr Evil on 12/3/02 12:37pm ]</font>
 

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You pretty much got it. You might want to service the axle seals while its apart.

If you're running a posi -- put the friction modifier in.
 

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If the axles have lots of miles on them, I'd think about installing new bearings on them while its apart.
Don't forget the new copper washers that go behind the nuts that hold the third member in place.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 85Mike on 12/3/02 12:51pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can I get the Bearings at Autozone or simmilar? Or is it a NAPA or Summit part? Are they universal or do I need specific ones?
Also, the 4:11 is a non-locker. What would I need to get if I wanted to change it over to a trac-loc?
Thanks!
Matt
Side note...This is my 200th post!
 

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Get quality parts, if I were going to get bearings and seals I would go NAPA. Get your bearings and seals pull your axels out, and take them back to your NAPA store, most likely they do axel bearing replacment, those are pressed on, so unless you have a press you will need to have them done for you. Most parts store here do axel bearing replacement.

As far as replaceing your one legger with a Trac-lok, you will need to secure the Trac-lok then have a qualified shop do the work and reset your backlash. Find a shop you can trust then grab the pumpkin and the Trac-lok and take them in. A new Trac-lok runs about 400$, cost to install will be an hour to 2 hours labor and parts.
 

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Get a Bowers/BCA bearing, maybe a Federal. After all the bad experiences I've had with NAPA brands I'll use something else. Also fill the rear through the axle, it's a lot simpler that way.
 

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Whats up with NAPA parts?

I have been using bearings that Dutchman installed on my axels, but have used replacement bearings from NAPA on other projects w/o issues. They have been the only ones to seem to be able to get me the right seals for my small tube big bearing axel housing, among other things.
 

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Im with qtrmiler put one axle in then raise the other side with out the axle to a slight angle and put the oil in lots easyer then trying to get it through that small set screw hole with a funnel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If I were to pour in the fluid through the axel housing, how do I know how much to put in?
P.S. does anyone have a trac-loc for an 8" for sale?
 

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Go buy yourself a $4.99 bottle of gear oil that comes with the little pump. That's the way I've always done it.

As for parts, I've had good luck with NAPA parts as well. Most other parts stores seem to offer the "good" bearings and the "cheap" ones. Just get the good ones...

Not much out there in terms of Posi for the 8". My auburn unit cost me close to $500 assembled (the carrier only).

Worth every dime though!
 

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I believe that Powertrax makes a trac-loc unit for the 8". Ditto on not using cheap bearings. I slung an axle on the 8" in the coupe, which is fenderless, and the axle passed me. The bearing was made in China. It got so hot during failure that it expanded the bearing collar just enough to let the axle fly. If the collar slips, that wimpy retaining plate won't hold the axle for long.
 

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I prefer Timkin bearings. I've used them with good success. Buy the bearings from some place like Randy's Ring and Pinion then have either a hotrod shop, machine shop or axle/driveshaft shop put them on. You've got to pull them anyway, might as well spend the extra $$ to replace the bearings and seals. I think fill is 3 1/2 pints, but better to look in a service manual. On the 9" I built, I put in enough to fill it to the check plug and it was way more (at least a pint) than the service fill. The standard gear lube bottle with the pointed tip was easy to use since I had plenty of clearance under the car. Check your vent tube/hose while you're under there and repair as needed.
 

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Don't even bother to put in 4:11's without a good posi rear. That would be a complete waste of effort and you would never be happy one peeling all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Its comming with a loose mini-spool, and do not think that would be good even if I only drive it on weekends and to the track and back. I have driven an atv with a locked rear and it squeels like crazy on the pavement when you turn. Its fun in the dirt though. Also I remember peeps from this board saying that I would probably end up breaking something if I used it.
Ok, I think the 3:00 may have a locker, but am not sure b/c it has no tag. when it is up on the jacks, the wheels spin in oposite directions. But when I do a burn out, both spin. What up with that?
 
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