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Discussion Starter #1
Well with the first hard (street) launch on the new 27" meats I discovered I have a clearance problem on the pass side. I have a 1" lip that I could cut but not sure if I want to cut it up.Running airbags and I believe that side had 10 psi in it at the time.This is a 3 link with pan bar that I made adjustable but it already has tension on it and not sure if I dare crank that over much more.Car has awesome weight transfer even with 10 psi in the bags.It cut the sidewall some
(didn't buckle fender) but it doesn't look like I need much to clear.So what do you all think - crank bags to 25psi and hope it clears,try to pull rear over with panbar or cut the top of the fender lip?
 

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Have you already rolled the lip? If not, the baseball bat works great, just place it in the fenderlip area and roll the car forward slowly. The bat does the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't done anything with it yet but I've seen what a bat can do to a perfect fender.The reason I hesitate to cut the lip is the spot welds that hold it together.
 

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Is this on the green car? I would be very very reluctant to cut/baseball bat the fenders on a good looking car like that especially since somethinglike that could go wrong/ look bad when your done racing and is probably hard to undo. I would try suspension mods before modifying the body.
JMO
Reuben
 

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I understand the hesitancy, believe me. Use caution on the ballbat method, obviously. Anychance some new rims with different backspace would help matters? Funny how so many of these cars have issues on one side or the other. My comet rubbed on one side with people in the back seat.
 

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Most likely, the panard bar is the root cause of the axel not being centered. Having said that...it is a normal issue with non-adjustable bar, especially if the ride height is no longer stock. Either raising or lowering the body (in relation to the axel) will cause the axel to center more to one side or the other.

You can shorten the panard bar, cut/center/reweld the attachment location, cut the bar and/or add some adjustment by using a Heilm and turnbuckle?

My assumption is base on the frame being straight and squared. You might be suprised how easy it is for a frame to be tweaked, from something that you may not have noticed or that happened long ago...it might never show uop in a normal front-end only alignement. I doubt if that is the problem...most likely, what I said int he first paragraph is the cause.

I'm just tossing out a few ideas, choose the best solution according to your needs. My solution, has been to leave a little on the table, when it comes to stuffing rubber under the fenders.

One other issue that comes up is the tire aspect ratio and rim width...a 70 or 60 aspect will set the "fat" part of the oval higher in the wheel well, might be enough to miss the interference...most of the time.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 6/13/05 3:35am ]</font>
 

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On 2005-06-12 15:25, Beoweolf wrote:
Most likely, the panard bar is the root cause of the axel not being centered. Having said that...it is a normal issue with non-adjustable bar, especially if the ride height is no longer stock. Either raising or lowering the body (in relation to the axel) will cause the axel to center more to one side or the other.

You can shorten the panard bar, cut/center/reweld the attachment location, cut the bar and/or add some adjustment by using a Heilm and turnbuckle?
He already said his was adjustable.

I would go for more pressure first, and maybe a slight clearancing on the lip. If its not visible, shouldn't be much of a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well the bar is somewhat adjustable in that I cut the end off the stock bar which is hollow and welded a #8 bolt in it with a jam nut.I set it equal with the stock length and had to push the rear over about an inch to the drivers side when I hooked it up.I measured between the backing plate and frame rails and both are equal but if you look you can see the pass tire is closer to the outside of the fender well on the pass side than the drivers.Don't know why it's this way but it does not look like the car was ever damaged.The fender lip is 2 pieces spot welded along the arch so if I use a cutoff wheel to trim it back will I end up with gap between the inner and outer pieces?As for adjusting the pan bar to bring rear over I'm afraid if I go much more the suspension will bind.Are all these fricken 60's Fords like this
 

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Time to do the tob job so you can put it whwere YOU want!
Most 60s cars Ive worked on both chevy and ford have little things like this.I know the 64 fairlane i had was similar to you situation.How much do you need to gain?
 

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Did the car squat a bunch? I guess air it up a little and give er a try.Like mentioned maybe a wheel thats set in 1/2 would work....Is ther no good way for you to "trim" the fender lip back? I know you dont want to raise the back of the car up....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Car squats like like a fat lady's butt walking down the sidewalk
I would cut/trim it if I can do it without making a hack job of it.Suppose I only need to trim say the top 4" of the lip.I have 25 psi in it now and it's just a bit higher than I like but I will run it that way Friday.
 

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The rear ends in these old cars are RARELY centered. They just weren't that particular back when these cars were built. If you want it centered, you've got to do it yourself....

Sometimes there's enough slack in the leaf spring mounting plate holes that you can loosen the springs and move the rearend over a bit. You can also drill NEW holes in the mounting plates, and move the rearend wherever you want! Some cars gain a LOT of extra tire room by moving the rear axle back a half inch or so. (pretty much any old mustang, anyway)

Good Luck!
 
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