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Discussion Starter #1
Hi every ones,
I have an opportunity to buy a used tko 600 that is mounted on a 351 windsor. Does someones know if it can be use with my 390? does the input shaft can be a problem?

thank's
 

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It may require modification, but not always.

Lowest cost fix, if it does, you have to cut the tip that slides into the pilot bushing. Most expensive way is to buy the short input shaft, in the middle is buy a spacer, but then you have to run a non standard drive shaft length.

However, some "Ford shafts" are different than others, depending if it was modified or built directly from tremec, so you may just be able to slide it in. If the price is right, I'd buy it

Keep in mind floor clearance will probably be the biggest thing you have to correct, the input shaft is generally at most a bit of a thinking point
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank's for the info, I saw some threads about this swap and they always used this spacer I thing???

any pics about this shaft and spacer ?
 

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I used the transmission with the standard input shaft and the longer version of the Quicktime scattershield/bellhousing.


Seems like people have varying degrees of difficulty with this swap and I would say mine went down hard. I had to fab up some clutch linkage stuff, make a transmission mount and crossmember, and I had to adapt the emergency brake equipment onto the new crossmember. I did most of the job over Thanksgiving weekend working by myself in the machine shop. I would say it was well worth all the hard work and $$ spent. If you have a good deal on a used TKO and can do some fabrication work then I'd say go for it.

I don't have pics of the input shaft but I have this one ;)


 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank's 65er, I saw your swap on the ford fe site and you did a fantastic job. What shifter do you used, and how do you fit the finition with the carpet?? (any pics) When you say that you had fabricated clutch linkage stuff, do you mean the alluminium adaptor for the z bar at the bellhousing?
I located another transmission in my country, it's a Mmr pro trans 900 ( a stronger tko 600).It was on a 2003 mustang 4.6. The guy say it's the same transmission but just stronger inside!!!!I just have to buy a scatershield that fit my 390. The price seem right around $1300.00.

Thank's again
 

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Thanks for that link RAGGAREN, I remember being somewhat horrified reading that before I did mine, hahah. That was some really nice work Dano did there. Much more elaborate than mine but then mine had to get done quick since I don't have another car to get to work and back.

Thank's 65er, I saw your swap on the ford fe site and you did a fantastic job. What shifter do you used, and how do you fit the finition with the carpet?? (any pics) When you say that you had fabricated clutch linkage stuff, do you mean the alluminium adaptor for the z bar at the bellhousing?
I located another transmission in my country, it's a Mmr pro trans 900 ( a stronger tko 600).It was on a 2003 mustang 4.6. The guy say it's the same transmission but just stronger inside!!!!I just have to buy a scatershield that fit my 390. The price seem right around $1300.00.

Thank's again
Thanks Frank! I wouldn't say it was a fantastic job though, maybe more of a frantic job, haha.. But I did get it done and everything seems to be working wonderfully well.

As for the shifter, I used the Steeda Triax shifter in the forward end of the rear mount and I made the lever and ball myself. To fit it in with the carpet after cutting the tunnel, I took a piece of soft aluminum sheet and beat it to shape so it would cover the hole and lay reasonably close to the transmission without touching. After I got it to a shape I liked I set it in place and taped it down with a double layer of aluminum HVAC tape and layed the carpet right over it. It's a little higher than stock but the carpet seems to have stretched into place fairly well on it's own. No pics here because I was getting real tired at this point and just wanted to get it done. I actually had everything together with the transmission tunnel intact well enough to back the car out of the shop but the angle was really too steep. The day before I cut out the tunnel I was wondering if I may have driven the car for the last time, lol.


On that linkage, as you saw there was an aluminum stand that I had made to hold the transmission-side Z-bar pivot. That was a pretty nice piece until I got everything up in place and found that I had to relocate the pivot. I whacked it apart on the saw and added a spacer and also offset it so it's not so nice looking anymore but it does work well so I'm not planning on fooling with it any time soon. After the Z-bar is where my linkage got complicated. The bottom arm of the "Z" was about an inch higher than where I needed it to line up with the throwout fork, and also almost an inch too far the the left. On top of that, my headers (Hooker 6130) aren't made to fit a clutch so I had to hammer quite a bit of clearance into one of the tubes to even get a linkage in there at all. To solve the misalignment problem I ended up creating a "Y" link consisting of a rod that attaches to the throwout fork and extends through the tranny crossmember for alignment, then a second rod that links the Z-bar to the throwout rod.

Here you can see my rearranged pivot mount and the two rods with the long one through the crossmember.



There's a second angle iron on the crossmember now that has all the E-brake stuff mounted on it and the single screw linkage in the picture would bind sometimes so I bent the short rod into a more pronounced "Y" shape and added a second screw and some jam nuts at the forward ends of both rods so the linkage can no longer twist. Looks like a nightmare I guess but the clutch pedal feels perfect (IMO!), has been nice smooth since the modification and it allows for a whole lot of adjustment.

Now that was a lot to go through but I know some of the other guys have been able to do the install with a stock linkage. I think the main difference is that they used a stock fork which is longer than the McLeod fork I used, and they probably had headers more suitable for the job.

If I had it to do all over again I think I would skip the original pedal and Z-bar setup and just go with the hydraulic setup with a master/slave cylinder. But in my case, once I disconnected the battery and loosened the first bolt I was committed and had to do what I had to do o_O
 

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I love your car 65er, every time I read one of your posts and see the little red and white photo at the bottom I just smile. My first car back in 74 was a 65 Galaxie 4 door, and seeing yours brings back memories, only cooler since it is a 2 door. I love those body lines!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The picture is nice I can understand what you mean.
When you get the time for the picture about the shifter, please post it.

thank's again
 

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You mean the actual lever and ball, or were you looking for something with the actual shifter mechanism? Here's how it looks in the car if that's what you mean...
 
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