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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to have a cam put into my car in about 3-4weeks. I talked to Comp Cam. And here is what cam they told me to get. It is a roller cam cam#31-760-8 Grind#288R <U>[email protected]</U> intake 586/586 ex. rpm range 2200-6500. My motor is a 67 289hi-po with stock 480cfm holley 4bbl, stock Holley commander intake, Jba Headers, T5, DUI Distribler and 3.80 gears. The Comp Cam guy it will be very streetable. I figure a Edelbrock rpm manifold would work great and edelbrock like 750 carb, and AFR heads or Edelbrock Victor Jr. Heads will work to 500+hp in the future. Right now i have like 360hp. I am thinking a 50hp gain from a 40year old 447lift cam to this nice roller cam.
 

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If you are putting a roller cam in you are going to have to buy a roller conversion lifter set for the 289 block. They are around $400 and you have to but a steel distributer gear $75 and the cam costs double of what a hydrolic flat tappet costs. I would get a similar grind in a flat tappet and save $500.
Chris
 

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I doubt you're current setup is 360hp and I don't think you'll see a 50 hp increase with the new cam using the other parts you have now.I wonder if you're basing these numbers off the hipos supposed 271hp.I think reallisticly these motors are probably in the low 200 hp range.On the other hand it sounds like your headed in the right direction with the parts you are planning to get with the exception of the intake.I'd use a victor with that cam and all the other parts you mentioned on getting.I think the cam would be a little big for you;re current setup but your 5 speed and 3.80 gears will help .I hope I don't sound too negative but its very difficult to get the kind of hp your talking with basically stock parts.
 

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I agree with the previous poster...360 HP with your configuration is too high. Probably closer to mid to high 200's. I would also go with a flat tappet cam. A 225-230 duration @ .050 and .500 lift will really wake that engine up! Ask Comp Cams about the 282S cam. Rollers are just not worth the expense when you have to convert the block. Flat tappet cams with roller rockers, especially, solid flat tappet cams, which have very agressive lobe profiles (nice compromise between hydraulic flat and roller cam profiles), have come a long way in the last 30 years. Small block fords have large diameter lifters which allow for a more agressive cam profile than say a small block chevy. SBF cams can have sharper lobe ramps on flat tappet cams without the lifter digging into the cam lobe. Go with the flat tappet.
 

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You didn't mention anything about the heads on the car. I'll assume they are the stock hipo units. These have smaller combustion chambers than the standard 289 units, but the same size ports and valves. With those heads, (unless they are EXTENSIVELY ported) there's no sense in spinning the engine very high... because all you'll be making at the upper rpm range is noise.

My recommendation for a cam would be a solid lifter unit around 224-230 degrees @ 0.050" on the intake, maybe a bit more on the exhaust. A lobe seperation of around 110 degrees will be about right. A cam like this will pull strongly from around 2400-6200 rpm, and give great midrange power. The Comp Cams 270S Magnum is a solid measuring 224 degrees @ 0.050" on the intake, and is a good choice. A cam I've used in the past, and is now seeing use in a Shelby clone is a custom solid flat tappet from Comp Cams. It uses the 270S intake lobe and the 282S exhaust lobe, ground on a 110 lobe seperation. It works great from 2500 rpm to up over 6000.

The guy with the Shelby has a set of ported 351W heads, and really loves that cam. I wouldn't go any larger than this with unported stock heads... about the time the cam starts to work, the heads will be all done, and all the car will produce is noise.

Port the heads, get a cam similar to what is mentioned abobe, hook it to a set of headers and a GOOD 2.5" exhaust system with $99 Flowmaster mandrel bent tailpipes and be happy.


Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The guy at comp cams said that this cam will work with a non roller block. And they are stock hi-po heads. My car feels like 360 it does low 4s 0-60 [little faster than 4.5 0-60] with good tires probely 4 secounds and tracktion bars. Car weights 3200 with me in it. My heads do pull to 6000 rpm though if you look the hi-po motor makes it peak hp at 6000 rpm [email protected] I am going to put like Edelbrock Vitor CNC heads on it later though sometime this summer. I dont know what to do , you guys say i have to add all this stuff to make it a roller block. All i should have to do is new lifters, new distribler gear, new springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Chris no the lifters are 89.99
part number# 838-16
That is what O-Relly can get them for. I can get the lifters, springs and cam for under 500.00. The DUI roller gear cost like 40.00
 

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If you want to get an idea of your hp go to the track and get some timeslips.Its the mph that you need so don't worry about not getting great traction etc.Then just simply plug in your wieght and your mph into the calculator in the archives and you will have a good idea.I have used a few different formulas and sites calculators and they are all very close.
 

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How can you get all that for under $500?? Summit Racing sell those lifters for $292 and the cam for $239. Thats $531 plus a $40 dist gear and another $150 or so for springs. Sounds closer to $700 to me. Unless your getting some good buy's somewhere, I don't see it possible to buy it new for under $500. If you can, pass on the info of where to buy it from for us all.
 

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Where are you getting your rollers from and how are they different from stock rollers in a 5.0? I ask because roller lifters should be too tall to fit completely inside the bores on an older block.

Retrofit lifters cost waaaay more than stock replacements, so does a small base circle cam. I would expect that you could get away with using either shorter lifters or the smaler cam, but you will definately have to check your pushrod length when you are done or you can expect to redo your valve guides. A spyder from a 5.0 can be used with stock roller lifters by tapping bolt holes in the block, but don't go all the way thru to the cam bearings. Lots of considerations here that I once struggled with.
 

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Masterd,

Not to break your bubble, but that engine is not making 360hp. The 480 carb, stock hipo heads, and shorty headers just don't add up to 360hp. Take it to the track to get a real idea of how it runs. Sure, the guys in the car show scene make all sorts of claims, but you rarely ever see them at the track backing them up. If you want some real info, go to the track or strap it to a chassis dyno. I'm not trying to be an a**hole, I'm just trying to open your eyes. If you are REALLY interested in making the car faster, you'll have to take a step back and re-evaluate.

Now, that being said.....

The stock hipo heads are going to make more noise than horsepower at high rpm. Sure, the engine might spin up that high, but a GOOD set of heads will really unleash the hidden horsepower that is screaming to get out.


If you want to run those heads, don't cam the engine to run 7500 rpm. That solid roller cam you mentioned is way too large for those factory heads. A cam with specs similar to what I mentioned above will work MUCH better with the existing engine. Truse me here.

The Victor CNC heads are a totally different animal. They are HUGE, and are also designed completely differently than a standard small block head. They require a special intake, rocker setup and headers. They are aimed at the super serious 400 cubic inch 351W strokers that race in competition. You best bet would be a set of Air Flow Research 165's or 185's. See http://www.airflowresearch.com for a good description.

Follow my advice in this, and my earlier post if you REALLY want to be happy, and make more usable horsepower.

Good Luck!
 

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You can buy a whole conversion roller kit with th cam,lifters,and everything else except te gear.
 

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CCA-838-16's run around $285 at retail. A friend of mine is a manager at OReillys and they will mark those up probably another 100 percent over that. You really need to check on that price because that is usually about what a set of cheap hydraulic flat tappet lifters run. I bet that $89 price is for one pair of those solid rollers with the adjoining lock bar at an OReillys store.

I don't see how you figure 360 horses out of a stock hipo with some shortie headers? If only it was that easy by now I'd have about 600 or 800 horses in my motor.

I run a Comp solid [email protected] with .560 lift in my 289. It comes on at around 4000 and spins easy up over 7500. That is no way that is a 6500 rpm cam in a 289 unless it just completely runs out of wheeze before the cam gives up. Then I suppose it would be but you'd be loosing a bunch of your power and top end by running it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah i want to dyno my car. I am going to after i put in a cam. I will post the dyno results later. Ok here is the prices on the cam O-relly's told me i can get them for:

cam#31-760-8 Grind# 288R
price: he told me 289.00 i belive

Lifters# 838-16
price 89.99

Springs# 914-16
price 99.99

distribler gear i think is 40.00 for DUI

Ok so what cam should i go with then. I dont want to put and cam in it to big that my engine will run like crap with the stock heads on it. But i want it to work with the AFR heads Good though. I want max hp from like 2000-6300 arround. I guess i need to call comp cam back. What should i ask them ect.. Thanks for all your input! He is the flow numbers for the hi-po heads below From: Mustang and Fords mag. from dec. 1999:

Intake Exhast
.100 55.3 .100 41.4
.200 98.8 .200 71.9
.300 139.5 .300 98.2
.400 160.5 .400 112.6
.500 169.5 .500 121.0
.600 177.0 .600 125.1

They did a flow on the victor jr. also they did a flow test on all the old heads compared to the new heads.
 

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Mike called the cam numbers pretty well up there already if you are trying to hold it to 6500. In my opinion, the only way to make big power with a 289 is to turn it on up or stuff the motor(nos, blower, turbo). It just doesn't flow the volume a bigger cube motor will so something has to give somewhere. If you put big ole huge flowing heads on it you will kill whatever low end it had left because the small cubes just can't make any low rpm velocity(same as the 4V cleveland syndrome). That requires you to wind the hell out of it to get it to power up.

I had the Comp cams phone tech geeks tell me the same nonsense regarding my cam being a 2500 to 6500 rpm cam. It just isn't so if its in a 289 cube motor(might be in a 351W). One of them also told me to set my initial timing to 12 degrees. I lost my eyebrows and caught my arm on fire from the spit back trying that. I even tried arguing with them about the spec's but they wouldn't listen. Whatever they are paying those dudes to talk on the phone its too much, LOL. On the other hand I like Comps equipment a lot and I run their cams, lifters and rocker arms and will probably keep on doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok i think i am going to call Comp cam back. Mike what is the lift on the cam ect.. spec. I think i am going to lower the rpm. 2000-6000. My main consern is 0-60 and 0-100 times for the street.
 

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dude, go look at my website, i bet my motor barely makes 360hp! prolly only about 350....

anyway, that price on the lifters is wrong, plain and simple.
i do however feel a roller is the way to go, and the victor jr is not the way to go...
try a smaller port single plane like the torker 289 (used on ebay all the time) or the weiand excelerator. you will also want a carb, try a 600dp (4776) or contact BIGS about reworking your stocker (excercise in futility tho).
i would contact ed curtis at flowtech induction, or buddy rawls and cross section engineering about a custom roller for a couple bux more.
that cam is all wrong for your motor no matter how ya look at it. its got a wide lsa, combined with very small ports and valves that motor will never get into its powerband really... youll want a rediculously short lsa, medium duration, small port intake, and a smallish carb to really wake those poor flowing heads up.
@ 289" tho, your not ever going to see 360hp with stock heads, even very well ported ones, unless you give up all the streetability of the car....bad idea.
at best right now your car is putin down about 180rwhp, and i would crap myself if it puts down 200! (dont think its possible) so a step up of 100 hp would be huge to the seat of pants, and i feel with a bit of head porting, a very well designed hydro roller, a good manifold, and carb you could hit about 280-300 rwhp (max prolly).

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nosmatt trust me man i got at least 250whp. My car no way could do 0-60 in the 4 secound range if it didn't at least had 250+whp. Stock the hi-po got 160-170 whp.I have Spiral Max[added like 15hp], Rural Puple Oil added about 10-15hp, Clutch Fan adds like 15hp, i also have a MPG winage tray i put in, it added 12hp. The dUI distrible added alot. The Distrible cost 400.00. Go to SpiralMax.com a read up on some of there products. I think i am going to do some more calling arround, and put a cam in a later date. Your right 586 lift is way to high. From what i read like .500 lift would be about right. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for all your help....
 

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If a hi-po 289 with a few bolt-ons is putting out 360 HP, then mine with all of the goodies must be putting out at least 500 HP.
It's odd how the magazines can only get about 400 HP on the dyno out of a completely built, barely streetable 302 with AFR185 heads, a roller cam, open headers, and no accessories to drive.
 

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So if FM did the same basic bolt ons to project 11.99 their 400hp 302 ought to be pushing about 460hp. Right?
 
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