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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
when i slid the torque convertor in the tranny then seated it, it went in perfect! it is a c-6. when i put up to the aod flexplate on my 302 everything lined up! so i figured it would work perfect! so when i bolted the tranny to the motor everything went together like planned UNTIL i went to bolt the convertor to the flexplate! i had to slide the convertor out about a 1/2" TO 3/4" to get it to bolt up to the flexplate. is this normal? this is my first auto tranny. now i know it is an aod flexplate, and the tranny came out of my old '85 f-150 351w HO 4x4. and i do know that ford makes a flexplate for a 302 to a c-6. but is it all right. kinda has me worried the pump isn t ingaged right. please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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WOAHHHH Sounds like trouble to me. Id bet your on the hairs edge of pump engagement if at all. Im not an expert trans guy but on my c4 the most i slid the convertor up to the flexplate is an 1/8" max. Sounds like you need to tear it apart and get a flexplate made for the 302 C6 combo.
Good luck
 

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should come out or pull out .090 to.180 when bolting up. any more or less will be trouble. if you put spacers in to fix the problem, make sure the converter hub is engaged in the rear of crank about 1/8". it can be in more as long as it doesnt bind or bottom out, but not less.
 

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I'm pretty sure the AOD flexplate is the same as C4.If so you need to get a c6 plate .The c6 plate is approx 1/4" deeper towards the trans
 

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Wrong flexplate. The convertor should not move more then 3/16" to bolt up. If you compare the flexplates you'll notice that they have different teeth counts, botl patterns and amount of flatness from crank flange to convertor face. And never try and put a spacer between the flexplate and crank flange.
 

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I thought I was the only one.
Came across this when I did my 3 on the tree to C4 conversion. The trans was out of my buddy's grandmothers 73 wagon with a 351C so it had the heavy duty clutch drums with the extra clutches.(Pan fill by the way).
The converter stud tips were flush with the flexplate and I thought that was kinda odd but I didn't have much experience with automatics at the time.
After my TCI MILEAGE MASTER LOW STALL CONVERTER broke on a manual shift to second on that freeway onramp, I pulled the tranny back out and put in a TCI SATURDAY NIGHT SPECIAL. This time I think I put some flat washers on the converter studs to keep the converter from coming out of the pump soo far. Worked great, no problems.
When I did my 5.0 conversion I found a flexplate reinforcing ring (used on some Ford models) ,which normally goes between the bolt heads and the flexplate, and I put it between the crank and the flexplate. A look at the witness marks on the starter gear told me it should work and it did.
60,000 miles later, I'm installing a built 5.0 and tried to figure a better remedy. I agree that making sure the converter engages the crank pilot is probably the most important. I am wondering about the converter itself. I notice TCI catalogs a different converter for pan or case fill trans and possibly I got the wrong one. I hope to figure it out someday, but right now I'm not loosing any sleep over it.
Good Luck!


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The C6 does have it's own flywheel. If you compare it to the C4/AOD wheel the difference is about the same as the ring gear depth. If you look from the back side one wheel is concave where the ring gear is welded on and the other is convex, hope this makes sense. Don't know if all the wheels are like this but the ones I have laying around are from mid 70's to mid 80's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah i got a flex plate from a buddy, it is junk cause it is bent a little but the c-6 is dished more than the aod flexplate i have. so i am going to order the ford racing flexplate and try that maybe if that does work i talked to a local tranny place and they said i could shim it a little but they told me the same thing the covertor shouldn t come out more than an 1/8". hey thanks to all!
 
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