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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1966 LTD that I am going to re-power with a 1994 5.8 EFI engine I have.
My question is what are any of you guys putting in these cars for transmitions.
I am thinking that I would like a c 6 behind it but there is debate over exactly what one to use. I have been told to use a electronic O.D. or I will have gearing problems if I want to cruise any highways.

Is there anyone out there that has done this swap and if so what did you use and what did you find.

The car now has a 390 FE w/cruise -o-matic ..factory setup.
 

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You question is primarily answered by 5 other questions -

  1. How are you going to use the car? (Be specific about how and where you plan to drive - local, highway, racing, etc.)
  2. Do you plan any power mods to the engine in the future? (Describe)
  3. Do you have personal preferences? (Acceleration, comfort, firm shifts, etc.)
  4. Is fuel economy or highway noise an important issue?
  5. Are you limited by budget? How much? (Up to $1000? $2000? $3000?)
Let's start with those to zero-in on good recommendations. You can't have your cake and eat it too - but we can try to get you close, based on these first answers.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well the car will be driven localy most of the time but I would like to be able to run down the interstate now and then to other places. Right now the cruise-o-matic seems to do what I want for driving if that helps at all.

No power mods to the engine. It has 325 hp now and thats all I need.

My choices here would be acceleration and comfort

Fuel economy would be nice but not a nessesity, and highway noise is not a huge concern as I do not plan on a lot of highway use

Yes budget is always a concern but not a driving factor for me. I am a very mechanical adept person and certified in every marine engine out there. So my only cost will need to be parts.
 

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So, has the 5.8 been built up? A stock 5.8 would be down on power, and more importantly torque, from the 390. An over drive trans will let you run much shorter rear gears to make up for the torque difference and retain around town fun. The EFI engine will be nice for a lot reasons, but, like David said, there are many, many variables to be considered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well this is kind of a different animal. No it has not per-say been built. It is a brand new marine MPI 5.8 with no smog crap.

I did today run accross a tranny from a friend of mine. I need to take a look at it but it is either a E4OD or a 4R100 he is not sure which. The price is right so I hope it will work. I do know I will need to get some type of shift point box and have looked into that previously seems they run from $600.00 up to thousands depending on what you want to do.

Any comments as far as that choice ????
 

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Are those truck transmissions? They may be very large cases that could be difficult to fit in the car. Make sure you know which trans and consider how much floor/hump fabrication might be required to make it fit. I've read many good things about the Baumann controller on this site. The Baumann stuff is now at usshift.com. You should be able to get dyno sheets with power and torque curves for the engine to help you with gear selection.
 

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OK, then the choice does not have critical goals. In this case, I would suggest a set of choices based loosely on increasing cost.

  • C4 - common, more efficient than the C6, cheap and easy to build, can be built to hold anything you'll ever see, and parts are everywhere. No OD and no lockup converter.
  • C5 - mild upgrade to the C4. Performance builders just do the mods to C4s, or start with a C5, but dump the centrifugal-lockup converter, longer bellhousing and valve body to use C4 stuff. Consider it another source of good cores for C4 builds.
  • C6 - common, heavier and less efficient than the C4. Can be built to hold more power (that you don't have) than the C4. Almost as cheap and easy as the C4 to build. No OD and no lockup converter. There are Gear Vendor OD units that bolt to these, but very expensive unless found on an old RV or other cheap source. I've found the GV OD on CraigsList locally for as little as $400.
  • AOD - Common. For 325 hp, not too bad for build cost - about 50% more for basic build and shift kit than the C4. More money for performance lockup converters and the rest of this type - $400-800+. The big gain is the extra gear for lower cruise rpms and therefore reduced cruise noise. This can gain MPG.
  • AOD-E - later electronic version of the AOD. Custom controllers are around $250 for DIY kits and $4-600 for aftermarket. Some say you can use a junkyard EEC and a few sensors just for trans control. Probably so. I have done that successfully, just not with the AOD-E yet. Like the AOD, 350hp is about it without going big bucks. Larger 12"stock converters balloon above 6k. There are rare AOD-EW versions that are simply transitional 4R70Ws (Wide ratio).
  • 4R70W - Not as common. Upgraded version of the AOD-E. Big change is wide-ratio gears for much better low-gear acceleration with 2.84 1st gear. V6 3.8L Mustang and 4.2L F150 versions fit our small blocks also, and are rated same as V8 for power. Early ones are a bit better than AOD, but 1998+ gets MUCH better, capable of 500hp with just a shift kit. Downside is speedometer is electronic only 1999+. Factory Marauder 11" converter stalls 22-2400 rpm with a 300hp small block and a modified flex plate, saving cash. Larger stock converters balloon above 6k and is the primary reason for the electronic factory rev limiters in the donor cars. Same controller options as AOD-E. 4R75E/W similar, but no SBF bolt patterns.
  • E4OD - Common. Pretty much considered an extra gear on a C6, but very limited parts interchange. Also had wider gear ratio spread than C6 with a 2.71 1st gear. Not much else to say. Small aftermarket support mostly aimed at diesel guys. Big, heavy, expensive to build. Will not fit most cars without mods. Stick with 1995+ versions. Custom lockup converters get quite expensive from here on at typically $800-1200.
  • 4R100 - successor to the E4OD. No parts interchange. Very large and heavy but strong. More expensive to build and a couple special tools needed. Can easily hit a couple grand for a performance setup using your own labor. Common, with same diesel aftermarket. Will not fit any cars I know of without mods.
Well, brief but I hope it helps. If it was me with your car, I'd go C4 or 4R70W. Other stuff will work. There are many other good transmissions, but they don't have a small block bolt pattern.

David
 

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I have a COM, everyone says switch to a C6. Is a switch to a C-4 possible/reasonable?
 

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Agreed. Unless you have a specific goal or need a trans 'cuz yours crapped or something, use whatcha got. It works. If you do need a trans and you use your car a lot, then it's often worthwhile to spend the extra bucks for a better performance and/or long-term mileage improvement. At that point, your pocket calculator and personal desires are primary factors, and the weight of each factor is up to you.

David
 

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I have to say to an extent you are right PSIG, if he is running really radical rear end gears, say 4.11 and up, what you gain by using a overdrive unit is dramatic, not just in gas saving but wear on the engine, most engines with a 30'' tall tire and 4.11 gears pull around 3700 rpms at 70mph, going simple to an overdrive unit can reduce engine rpms by 1000, in this case reducing to 2700 at 70mph, which will reduce engine wear and increase gas mileage, I personally like manual transmissions (i am a control freak) and i just dont feel like im controlling the engine with a automatic, so in my 68 i went with a six speed, TRUST ME, well worth it to have a double overdrive which reduced my rpms to 2000 at 70mph with 4.11!!!, thus saving more gas and engine wear. I also installed this unit on my garage floor, converted to a hydraulic clutch, did MINOR floor modification, and installed everything in about 2 weeks by myself, so anyone can really do it, The kits that are sold are complete as well from flywheel to driveshaft being included!!! Just my .02 worth........
 
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