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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a art carr C-4 , new in box from a guy that never used it , been sitting for a while , has reverse man . valve body ,trans brake , as soon as i get it going , trans brake won't work every time i hit the button and when it does it won't hold above 3500 rpm's , it's a 3800 converter, car starts to roll , and it's had the 2-3 flare , but not everytime , called art carr ,they said it was the old style valve body, they have a new design that would solve the problem , but i didn't buy it new and it's going to cost me a 100.00 and my old one ! Also been told that the reverse bands , clutches was weak , Thanks for the help , great site , glad to be a member ! thanks again !
 

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Have you tried adjusting your reverse band?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Don't know how to adjust or where the reverse band is , been working on mustangs for ten years ,but never deal with the auto's , always been sticks , forgot to tell ya in the last post , that it will go in reverse without holding the button down also , if you can tell me where it is and how to adjust it i'll try that . thanks for the info !! also you have to hit the button two or three times before it will lock up ! thanks !

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: bad4rd on 8/14/06 9:39am ]</font>
 

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As far as I'm aware, it is only the new brakes (and alot of chev stuff) that require you to activate the brake to get it into reverse.
I would think that $100 to have their latest sytle brake VB is probably not a bad deal.... imho
You really need a torque wrench that reads down to 10ft/lbs or less to adjust the band properly. The adjuster is on the rhs near where the extension housing bolts on. You will see a threaded portion sticking out with a small four sided "head" on it, it is held by a jam nut against the case. Hold the four sided bit and undo the jam nut....screw the threaded bit inwards (clockwise) say 1/2 turn and hold...tighten the jam nut. Try it.
Without knowing where you "are" it's alittle like working in the dark.
If you have a torque wrench, undo the jam nut, tighten the adjuster to 10 ft/lbs.....then back it off two turns, hold and tighten the jam nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info , lets say its the valve body and not the bands and i tighten it up will it hurt anything , also trans does good by foot brake , will it hurt running it the way it is ? thanks again !

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: bad4rd on 8/14/06 9:48am ]</font>
 

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If you over tighten the rear band you could burn the band.
But i would try it for sure. Also could be the reverse servo is leaking.
Could be that the soleniod is not working or sticking?
Is the solenoid on the outside where the modulator went?
 

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The trans break valve body sells for $320 or so. Getting it for $100 exchange seems to be a pretty good deal but shouldn't the new one that you have work? Seems like they would want to cover it under warranty - except that it is a competition tranny and probably doesn't carry much of a warranty.
Does it have all the other gears? low, second and high?
If they work and the only problems you have are associated with the brake then I would make sure that I had a good ground strap from the tranny to a clean part of the frame rail (I know its a unibody but it does have a reinforced area like a frame rail.) then I would make sure that the wiring to the brake was at least 14 gauge and maybe even 12 gauge wire. Run it for a few days - you aren't going to hurt it unless you have tightened the bands too much. If you dont have an inch pound torque wrench here is a cheeter way to get the adjustments in the ball park.
1. loosen the rear band lock nut while holding the screw and hold it (the nut).
2. tighten the screw to snug with a six inch long wrench while holding the lock nut from turning.
3. back it off 1 1/2 to 2 turns while holding the lock nut.
4. tighten the lock nut while holding the screw.

now adjust the front band:
1. Loosen the lock nut while holding the screw.
2. tighten the screw to snug with a six inch long wrench while holding the lock nut.
3. back out the screw 1 1/2 turns while holding the lock nut
4. tighten the lock nut while holding the screw from turning.

test drive the car.
 

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The reason I say drive it for a few days is because at certain points in the valve body grease is commonly used (I don't use grease but most rebuilders do) to hold check valves and shuttle balls in place. If you get the tranny warm and work it a bit (go through the shifts) while its warm the grease will disolve and things will work well. If the tranny sat for a while that grease can turn to wax and it may need some time to disolve and let things work the way they should. Three days of driving should be enough to do the trick. If three or four days doesn't improve the tranny's operation then nothing will. If the tranny has low and high then the reverse gear should be ok too. If it isn't staying locked up under load then it might be sticky parts or grease preventing the valve from operating freely. Running it warm and shifting it through the gears will disolve the grease. after three or four days it still doesn't work then it probably isn't grease sticking the valves.
In that case it may be a problem with the valve body or brake solenoid.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the internal one , everything else works great , i can get 3500 or so when hot but when cold i can get 4000 before it moves , already done the ground strap !
 

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If its doing ok by foot brake, its kinda pointing to a design issue or solenoid problem.....though its possible to have a VB leak only affecting the solenoid circuit. By what they indicated when you talked to them, it sounds like it may be design.
If you are happy foot braking...great...brakes REALLY test the trans but do give you more launch consistancy.
 
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