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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The manual shift TransGo kit - anybody know if this is a forward or reverse pattern kit? No instruction sheets on TransGo's web site.

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1967 Falcon 4 door w/351C - Owner built, owner abused.
70 Mustang 302 / 06 Ranger, 04 SuperCrew parts hauler
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ckelly on 3/12/07 12:22am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks - ah, well - need reverse.
 

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Broaderperformance.com has a do it yourself kit to make a reverse pattern manual shift valve body. $75. I haven't tried it but I would like to in the future.
 

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Hey if you try the broader kit would love to see some pics.I think i am going to order some kits but would like to see what it's like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll call Broader today - I'm interested in the valve body. I see now he does have a kit, but I think I'd like to keep a known good VB intact for a spare. However, $100 saved fills the trucks for a week.....

I have an occasional 2-3 shift problem and I think it's the cable bunching up because it's being pushed (forward pattern) instead of pulled (reverse pattern). I actually won a round this weekend with the thing on the rev limiter in the lights, after it missed going into 3rd - but I wouldn't expect that to be a common result LOL. Complete intermittent problem too, which makes me crazy. Put the car up and check the shifter and it's perfect in all positions - it's got to be some artifact of my hammering the Pro Stick.
 

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I have never had this happen, but it was discussed on the trans forum a few months ago.

Apparently voltage can travel through the shift cable and cause it to seize. It is a good idea to ground the engine/trans well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I doubt that pretty seriously. The race grade shift cable sheath is vinyl - what's to seize against. Besides, the engine/drivetrain is grounded in several places. I'm quite sure it's not an electrical issue.

I ordered a Broader kit. After talking with Broader, I have a valve body under the bench that will work fine. Most of the valves will not be used so just about anything that's not broken in half will do.
 

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I've been sceptical about the voltage issue, but some people feel very strong about it.

Let us know how the kit is to install and how well it operates.
 

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Chris would love to see the results also.If you take any pics i'd like to see how it's done.I will order some kits then myself if results are good.
 

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Broader states that the low/reverse band isn't applied in first in their reverse pattern valvebody kit. I'm keen to try it but this makes me a bit iffy. I remember this being an issue on my 904.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Since I've shifted this transmission at least 3000 times in competition in a forward pattern , having no engine braking in first is probably a good thing - considering that I'll probably be whacking the lever the wrong way a few times before I get my brain re-programmed. waaaaWAAAAAAAAA..crap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got the kit. The hardest part so far has been cleaning the valve body I'm modifying - it came out of a parts trans I fished out of the wrecking yard and it is full of nice, thick metal paste. Bitch to clean. I don't really need to post any pics - the kit comes with very complete and concise instructions with photos. Not a lot to it - toss some of the valves, drill across some of the passages, put in the supplied spring and separator plate. I might get a chance to finish it this week and install it next week. Mustang required some cooling system parts this week. If it stays sealed up, the Falcon trans is next on the list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Results - the kit was easy to set up and install. So far, my theory has proved correct that pulling on the cable (via the reverse pattern) is more reliable. There have been no missed shifts. However, a manual VB will begin to reveal potential weak spots in the trans tuneup. Because of the nature of the 2-3 shift, if things aren't spot on there will be a bit of flare. I have about a 300 RPM flare on the 2-3 and it therefor it hits pretty hard. 1-2 is perfect. The trans has over 1700 passes on it, so any excess clearance (should be by now!) in the high clutch pack will allow this. Broader gave me some tips and I took the front band adjust down to 1 1/4 turns. That helped some but I can hear a little "squeak" from the kevlar band being really close to the drum. I could also put a bit of restriction in the servo dump port, but I think I'll just ride it to the end of the season because the trans and the motor need to come out for some TLC. We'll be over 1800 total passes on the pair at the end of the season - that's a lot of wear and tear.

_________________

1967 Falcon 4 door w/351C - Owner built, owner abused.
70 Mustang 302 / 06 Ranger, 04 SuperCrew parts hauler
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ckelly on 10/3/06 3:29am ]</font>
 

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Just joined and got to reading this one and decided to add my two cents.
Just had this prob. , but to the extreme. Found that the engine ground went bad causing the cable to be used as the ground(especially during starting).
The symptoms started as shifting was getting harder because the inner liner was getting hot enough to start melting. Unfortunately I didn't catch it before it totally burnt the cable at the track (in the staging lanes to boot).

I have since added additional ground straps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just FYI - the car has lots of ground straps, both front and rear. And they get checked as part of regular maintenance. A screwy electrical system is a good way to lose races.

The reverse pattern fixed the problem. No missed shifts since install - won several events, runnered up in Division 4 Modified and placed #1 locally in Summit and Modified ET. Got better when I could stop worrying about missing a gear.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ckelly on 12/18/06 10:43pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yet Another Update - Went through the trans this winter - first time it's been apart since November 1994. I installed Jay's 5 clutch high/reverse kit in the trans and set the clutch packs to .025 clearance on both. Total end play is set to .021. Took it out yesterday at the track and it shifts very clean and quick on both the 1-2 and the 2-3.

Side note - I was surprised at two things - one, I had the input shaft in backwards (long splines in) and it beat itself to death against the output shaft such that I had to replace the shaft and clutch drum. Oops. the second thing was that - except for the high/reverse clutches being hurt from the 2-3 overspeed - there was very little wear on the parts and thrust washers.
 

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Ckelly,
I use a bit more clearance in the clutch packs for a track only car. if you increase the clearance to .010 per clutch (.050" in your case) my customers tell me they get .1 second faster times. The big deal with doing that is that the packs don't last quite as long but they will usually go the whole season even when put behind 600 + hp engines. I like the tight clearances for street cars because there isn't as much wear under street conditions and the shift is snappy but not harsh.
I am curious, are you running any rollers in your tranny or is it all stock thrust washers?
Paul
 
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