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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just acquired a bad old 69 Lincoln. From what I understand (though I know nothing about Fords yet), it has the 10.5:1 460 motor. It ran pretty well on the drive back from where I bought it (about 500 miles) considering it needs a tuneup badly. The Motorcraft carb was running pretty rich most of the way, the wires and plugs are ancient, and I'm sure the points are off. Anyway, I plan on investing a little money on waking the engine up (looking for mean torque on the street), so I need some advice on the following ideas:

* Upgrade the points to electronic ignition. Should I just go for an old electronic Ford distributor? One can be had for $30. Then it's a matter of figuring out the advance curve.

* Cam and intake? I was thinking about Edelbrock's Performer line since the car's a tank at nearly 5000 lbs. I still need to check the rear-end; not sure if the differential is conventional or limited slip but the gear is probably 2.8 or 3.0.

* I have a Holley 800 DP sitting in my shed that's in great shape and doing nothing. Would this be too much carb? I think the primary jets are 73, which is probalby too big. Would it be a vain endeavor to try to get any sort of fuel economy from such a monster?

* Shift kit for the C6?

Any help appreciated!
 

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The things you have mentioned sound pretty good, although dont try to get much more thean 10 mpg out of it. On that car I would not go with a DP althoug an 800 VS sounds good. As for the ignition I would go with a pertronix unit, it bolts right into place and you can keep the stock distributor. I am not sure of the specs of the edel. performer cam but I think it is a nice torque cam.
 

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Before you rip into the engine, get it running right first. Do a full tune up by the book, use the top engine cleaner, maybe even stab some new lifters in it (makes a big diff).

With fresh plugs, wires, tuned up carb, etc, it will really wake up.

You'd be surprised how it moves out... it still had carb and compression.

A 460 Duraspark system is as easy to find as McDonalds. Just be sure you set it up right. Put a 150 spray on it and you'll have the time of your life with it!

The Ebrock is good, but a 800 DP prolly isn't the right thing. Maybe trade it out for a 750 VS?

Change carefully and do one at a time, that was a car that was Pre-Pimped from the factory. You could make it a race car and ruin it.

Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I appreciate the suggestions, guys. The first thing I'm doing is rebuilding the front end: all the bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc. The car has about 100,000 miles and has been garaged much of its life. Here's a couple shots of it:

https://webspace.utexas.edu/dottear/69_1.jpg
https://webspace.utexas.edu/dottear/69_2.jpg
https://webspace.utexas.edu/dottear/69_3.jpg
https://webspace.utexas.edu/dottear/69_4.jpg

I may just stick with the Motorcraft carb. It actually looks brand new but I know nothing about it. If the car wasn't sitting out at my dad's property right now, I could give you the specs on it, but I'll have to wait till the weekend at least.

I didn't hear any noise in the valvetrain when driving, so I may not need to pull off the covers till I start getting bored


Also I need to find a new alternator. I was hoping there'd be a 100-amp around that uses the double pulleys but I'm probably out of luck.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Yeti on 4/28/06 9:30am ]</font>
 

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On 2006-04-27 18:27, Yeti wrote:
Also I need to find a new alternator. I was hoping there'd be a 100-amp around that uses the double pulleys but I'm probably out of luck.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Yeti on 4/28/06 9:30am ]</font>
You can swap pullies around. Any of the older style 100 amp alt will take the double pulley. Heck, I had a double pulley on a 3G 130 amp alt off a 94 Mustang and now have a custom pulley on it. And the double pulley went onto a 60 amp alt on my 73 F250, so they are easily interchangeable.

That is a very nice looking car. Looks to be in great shape.

As for the Performer cam, I believe its 194/204 @0.050. That would be a good torque cam but you can also look at cams with 204/214 or 214/224 @0.050 cam. They would still have more than enough torque down low and have a pretty stout mid/top end. You're starting out with an engine that is 365hp and 500 ft lbs, STOCK, so you have plenty to be gained yet. I think a good intake, like a Stealth or Performer RPM would give you a lot of extra power and a 750+ cfm vs carb. Headers would also be a great improvement if someone makes headers for that car. If you want to start with a different distributor, remember, any 351c, 351m, 400, 429, or 460 distributor will work. Keep us updated on how your update turns out on the car. Like what was said earlier, try the plugs, wires, pcv valve, and maybe a carb rebuild first and see if that wakes the ol' tank up. Have fun with it
 

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Dura spark and the setup works nicely and easy to get parts for. Pref and cam are a good start too. Change the timing gears to a striaght up timing marks. If you pull the heads a good valve job and Comp Cams roller tip roller arms will work good. Work on the exhaust side to find HP. Just clean her up and make her a faster cruisemobile.
 

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A couple of notes from my experience:

I pulled a 460 from a Mark III for my Torino and assumed I was getting the high compressions engine (I was too green to check). At some point the engine had been swapped for a late 70's smog era unit. Check casting numbers - primarily the heads, which should be C9VE or C8VE on that car. You probably have the original mill, but it is good to know what you are starting with.

I put a Crane XR-i electronic module in place of the points in the distributor. It was simple and cheap and I am happy with it.

I went with a Comp 268H cam, Performer intake, and Edelbrock 750 in my fairly heavy car and I am very happy with it as a street cruiser.

The guys over at www.460ford.com can give you a as thorough an education as you want in these motors.
 

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Beef up the trans and maybe put in some better gears. Most of those cars had 2.80-2.60 gears. 3.25s would help and wouldn't hurt the mileage either.
 

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hey dacofa,

Just a note, but it came from the factory with the straight up timing chain. At 100k miles he should probably replace it, along with a new water pump.
 

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I agree with MaurauderMan. Those were strong engines from the factory. The 3.25 gear will really wake it up, and a 3.50 would really fool people at the red lights. I prefer the 3.25 for milage and performance, on a street car.
 

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That thing is likely going to have a 9-3/8 rearend in it. Gears will be a big problem.

It is said that a regular 9" centersection bolts right in, but I have never tried it.

A holley will not bolt to the stock intake.

The stock cam isn't that bad, and changing it would likely be much more trouble than it is worth unless you go with an intake and headers, along with springs, rockers, and pushrods.

I agreee with some of the others here, get it tuned up right and see what it does for you. 500 Ft/Lbs is nothing to scoff at, and neither is 360 HP.

You have probably the best 460 ever made in that car! See how you like it before you start changing things.

Good luck,

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow, lots of good feedback. I think I'll keep the motor stock at least until she's running clean and mean and passes state inspection. Besides, the electrical/ignition system and suspension/brakes are in the most dire need of my limited resources.

When I was driving the car back, I had to swap batteries every few hours with the truck following me lest the battery drain to the point where the starter wouldn't do its job.

I think I may go the 3G alternator route as they seem to fairly cheap and plentiful. f100cleveland, would the wiring be pretty straightforward?

I'll keep you all posted, but it may be several weeks before the old heroin runner's on the road again.
 

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I did the swap a couple years ago. It took me a couple hours to complete. I did a search and found some helpful diagrams on how to wire the 3g in. I did a quick search now and found a couple sites, but you can probably find some better ones.

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/3ag/3ag.htm

http://4wheeldrive.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=4wheeldrive&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.broncohio.com%2Ftech%2F3galternator.html

There are a bunch out there, just have to do some searchin.

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1982 F100 - 357c w/ stuffed 4v's and Funnelweb. C-6 trans, Gear Vendors o.d. and 4.86 geared Detroit Locker 9" rear. http://www.supermotors.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=6723

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: f100cleveland on 4/29/06 1:10am ]</font>
 

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I have the same car for 5 years now.I can give you some infos:
If its all original you have the 365hp engine with 10.5 compression.
The timing chain is set OK from the factory.The rearend is a 3.00 31spline tracklock 9inch!Not too bad.
I did a lot to the engine,but the best things by far was to get rid of the air pump that pumps in the back of the heads and adding an aftermarket carb.If you rebuild the motorcraft carb it will still be dead lean,causing detonation and heat up.Too small jets and absolutly no pump shot.You will also need a breakerless ignition of some kind as the 460 doesn't like to run long on points(endless trouble).An edelbrock intake will save a lot of weight,but the performance of the orig.4barrel intake is the same as the Eddy Performer.Adding an pertronix ignitor to the orig dizzy will be easy and let you keep the stock timing curve.Which is critical due to very high compression.Aftermarket or later 460 dizzy can cause ping in stock form(too much advance!)The exhaust is dual wich is nice,but the 4mufflers are killing the engine.2 good 2 chambers after the h-pipe will really wake her up.
Oh yeah,and:MustangIII front springs will lift the rear and stabilize the car very nice.Very importend with that kind of torque,hahaha...
Have fun,
Olli
P.S:Mine comes frome Dallas..

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460 D0VE-C,TorkerII,800DP,3.9s+Spool "The Luxury Monster"

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 71LincMK3 on 5/3/06 9:12am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the good tips, Olli. Fortunately the exhaust has been redone on my car, eliminating any extra mufflers, so it's loud and open; I'm a little disappointed, though, because there's no crossover pipe! Your car looks pretty pimp. I may have some questions for you down the road if I start modifying mine.

Last weekend I finally got to work on the car a bit (it sits out at my dad's property). In addition to some front end work, I installed the Crane XR-I ignition conversion, a new coil and started to replace the alternator with a 3G I picked up. Only question was...and still remains...where the heck is the voltage regulator? I didn't see it anywhere on the fender where it supposedly should be, but then again I've never owned a Ford before. Perhaps someone "rigged" the car up? Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Forgot to mention that the car does in fact have the C8VE-E heads so I'm pretty stoked.
 

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My uncle has a 69 T bird with a 360 hp 429, which is rather similar. Sounds like you already started on that, but I would also suggest a good tuning of what you have first. They may not be dragstrip warriors, but they move pretty good in stock form.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Helmantel on 5/16/06 10:23pm ]</font>
 

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I do have a 9 3/8" posi unit, 3.25 gears, 31 spline, probably fit right in your. I cleaned it and put it together, but it does need to be adjusted. Good exhaust system and rework the suspension. Remember she's heavy and there's not much you can do about that. Bigger sway bars will help.
 
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