Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The turn signal arm on my 1967 Galaxie 500 just sits at the bottom.It's should be centered but it's not. Had to stick a piece of card board under the turn signal arm to keep it in the center position. Without that it looks like all I want to do is make left hand turns. Something is broke. I have the steering wheel off. There are two plastic pieces that control the switch. How do I determine which piece is bad?

Thanks, Dan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
509 Posts
You can try just replacing the cam (part with the two wires and the plastic arms). It's not the most fun thing to do, but it's a lot easier then replacing the whole switch. You just pop off the retaining clip, splice the two wires and reinstall.

I'm in the process of replacing my switch, while I go through the column and repaint it. Mine is beyond repair as you can see in the following picture... One tab on the cam is epoxied on, hazard switch is broken up and held in with duct tape and the horn contacts were cut off (I assume bc someone forgot the spring when they reinstalled the horn ring at some point, I was told when I got the car they were clipped bc the horn would blast all the time). All this was done before I got the car, I had to hold the switch in position to get the turn signals to light and even then left took some wiggling. Oddly enough as worn as it is I never had issues with the brake lights.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Could you tell me what the function of the cam is? I'm thinking maybe the reason for the slop in the turn signal lever is because the square hole that the cam and the turn signal switch slide over has been kind of rounded out over time. I'm not sure what the ears on the cam do. When moving the turn signal lever, the ears don't really do nothing but move back and forth. Is there something on the back side of the steering wheel that has something to do with it?

You can try just replacing the cam (part with the two wires and the plastic arms). It's not the most fun thing to do, but it's a lot easier then replacing the whole switch. You just pop off the retaining clip, splice the two wires and reinstall.

I'm in the process of replacing my switch, while I go through the column and repaint it. Mine is beyond repair as you can see in the following picture... One tab on the cam is epoxied on, hazard switch is broken up and held in with duct tape and the horn contacts were cut off (I assume bc someone forgot the spring when they reinstalled the horn ring at some point, I was told when I got the car they were clipped bc the horn would blast all the time). All this was done before I got the car, I had to hold the switch in position to get the turn signals to light and even then left took some wiggling. Oddly enough as worn as it is I never had issues with the brake lights.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,856 Posts
The cam is what holds the lever and switch in the position you put it in. It should hold it up when you want to signal a right turn, down when you want to signal left and in the middle when you don't want to signal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The cam is what holds the lever and switch in the position you put it in. It should hold it up when you want to signal a right turn, down when you want to signal left and in the middle when you don't want to signal.
So am I correct in saying that if I removed the cam, the turn signal arm should move freely up and down?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,856 Posts
So am I correct in saying that if I removed the cam, the turn signal arm should move freely up and down?
My guess is it would fall down to the bottom, you'd be signalling left all the time, just like your current situation. You're likely needing to take things apart to find out what needs fixing and replacing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
70XL;16862.17 said:
My guess is it would fall down to the bottom, you'd be signalling left all the time, just like your current situation. You're likely needing to take things apart to find out what needs fixing and replacing.
Might as well just change the whole switch... oh well, gotta do what you gotta do. Thanks for the help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
509 Posts
Look for a Mustang switch for your '67. Exact same part number, but it can be obtained cheaper from one of the Mustang places or ebay rather then MACs or Dearborn.

The one I'm getting ready to install was $70 with shipping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Look for a Mustang switch for your '67. Exact same part number, but it can be obtained cheaper from one of the Mustang places or ebay rather then MACs or Dearborn.

The one I'm getting ready to install was $70 with shipping.

Jut ordered one on ebay for $69.00. Hope installation goes smooth, for both of us !!

Dan
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
509 Posts
Sounds like you probably bought the same one. The one I have has an extra wire (solid red if I remember right) that goes to the same connection on the switch as another wire. Otherwise all the wire colors matched up. You can pop the pins out of the old connector with a jeweler's screwdriver, just need to press in a metal tab and then they will back out.

Mine is going to be easy... Whole column is out of the car so I can do it all on my bench. Just make sure when you pull the old wires up you also pull up a string or something to pull the new wires down. ;)

If there is any play in the wheel, with the switch out it would be a good idea to replace the upper bearing and sleeve, MACS has both. I'm also replacing my shift collar as I'm tired of it being sloppy and struggling to get the car into park and getting it to stay in park.

Someone at some point tried to shore it up with some epoxy, but it ain't doing much anymore. That spring pin was still in there good though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like you probably bought the same one. The one I have has an extra wire (solid red if I remember right) that goes to the same connection on the switch as another wire. Otherwise all the wire colors matched up. You can pop the pins out of the old connector with a jeweler's screwdriver, just need to press in a metal tab and then they will back out.

Mine is going to be easy... Whole column is out of the car so I can do it all on my bench. Just make sure when you pull the old wires up you also pull up a string or something to pull the new wires down. ;)

If there is any play in the wheel, with the switch out it would be a good idea to replace the upper bearing and sleeve, MACS has both. I'm also replacing my shift collar as I'm tired of it being sloppy and struggling to get the car into park and getting it to stay in park.

Someone at some point tried to shore it up with some epoxy, but it ain't doing much anymore. That spring pin was still in there good though!
On the center of the turn signal switch there is a round plastic piece that spins around.There is a spring pin attached to this piece.Does that pin sit inthe groove on the back side of the steering wheel?
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top