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Anybody use the stock shorty cast manifolds for a twin turbo? Or stainless shorties? Pictures???

I bought a 64 Gal XL 390 4 speed basket case and plan on a low boost twin turbo setup to start with. The car is stripped but I have 99% of the parts in boxes. I'm going to do bearings, rings & pistons and slap the engine back together for now. Once I figure out the turbo system and get the car on the road I have a 4 bolt block that I will stroke and up the boost on. Thanks.
 

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I believe the stock manifolds will be leaky. I would go headers of some sort. I built a set out of stainless for my coyote swap.
 

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Anybody use the stock shorty cast manifolds for a twin turbo? Or stainless shorties? Pictures???

I bought a 64 Gal XL 390 4 speed basket case and plan on a low boost twin turbo setup to start with. The car is stripped but I have 99% of the parts in boxes. I'm going to do bearings, rings & pistons and slap the engine back together for now. Once I figure out the turbo system and get the car on the road I have a 4 bolt block that I will stroke and up the boost on. Thanks.
What I personal seen is using the stock Manifold (both has to be the rear exit) to can switch the Left to the right side. Once the exhaust exit is now in front which you will have to make a 90deg pipe to which will have the flange to connect the manifold and the Turbo. The problem is the the Alternator and Power steering may have to slightly moved/modified.

I have also see where the both stock Exhaust manifolds which exits from the mid pointing up and a adapter to connect the manifold to turbo. But not on a Gal.

Using headers would be the best and if you google, again they reverse as the exhaust exits to the front .
 

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If you can make them fit there is nothing wrong with using stock manifolds with boost. In fact a lot of the 275 LS guys use them.
 

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Here is a site Speedmaster™ - Automotive Aftermarket Parts & Car Manufacturer
I've order Aluminum Heads, Screw in Studs, Roller Rockers, Blower Intakes, Adapter plate....etc. They are also on ebay they have specials during Holidays which is the best time.
The plate I bought was so I could use a 1990yr+ (M62,M90,,,Etc) blower setup.
If you plan to Turbo Look into the A/F (Air to Fuel Ratio) and a Blow Off Valve.
I prefer a Water Cool system. See Pic. But with the Full Synthetic oil I was told it's better then the past oils.
The compression ratio will need to be somewhere around 8.5-9.0 if you plan on 12psi Max with today's Premium Gas.
I've worked on Water injection to cool the compression temp. On my 84 Mustang Conv 20th Ann has 10 CR and once the water kick in I can get up to 25PSI. I had started with a manual switch to now sensing Tach RPM using a MSD controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is a site Speedmaster™ - Automotive Aftermarket Parts & Car Manufacturer
I've order Aluminum Heads, Screw in Studs, Roller Rockers, Blower Intakes, Adapter plate....etc. They are also on ebay they have specials during Holidays which is the best time.
The plate I bought was so I could use a 1990yr+ (M62,M90,,,Etc) blower setup.
If you plan to Turbo Look into the A/F (Air to Fuel Ratio) and a Blow Off Valve.
I prefer a Water Cool system. See Pic. But with the Full Synthetic oil I was told it's better then the past oils.
The compression ratio will need to be somewhere around 8.5-9.0 if you plan on 12psi Max with today's Premium Gas.
I've worked on Water injection to cool the compression temp. On my 84 Mustang Conv 20th Ann has 10 CR and once the water kick in I can get up to 25PSI. I had started with a manual switch to now sensing Tach RPM using a MSD controller.
Thanks for the info. Water or meth injection is a great idea.
 
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