[677litre]

Off Galaxie topic for you guys. My other winter projet is a 68 Mercury Cougar which is a unibody like the same years Mustang.

I have it down to bare shell and will be getting it sandblasted shortly but I'm unsure what direction to take for coatings after. I'm thinking something zinc based but there are so many option and good and bad product out there I wanted your advice. I want the shell to last a long as possible, obviously, since I spent the cash and got a really good rust free shell out of the southern states.

I can coat everything other than the outer parts that will see final paint or the whole thing but the coating would have to be paintable on the areas that matter.

Thoughts? I live in Canada so product availability might be an issue.

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

It all depends on what your plans are and when you will be working on it.

But to be simple about it, after sand blasting and cleaning out ALL the sand, Spray the entire car inside and out with a good PPG brand DP Epoxy Primer It will outlast any other primers I've used, and is perfect for priming bare metal then storing it.

 

[Arabian454]

+1 on the PPG DPLF epoxy.........Good stuff

 

[JEM]

But to be simple about it, after sand blasting and cleaning out ALL the sand, Spray the entire car inside and out with a good PPG brand DP Epoxy Primer It will outlast any other primers I've used, and is perfect for priming bare metal then storing it.

Agreed. But I'll make one further comment: if you're planning to do any structural work on the car, like the front-structure reinforcement from the Boss 302 Chassis Modifications book you want to mask off the shock-tower seams, etc. before you prime, because you'll spend more time scraping and wire-wheeling off primer before you weld than you actually spend welding.

Been there, done that, got the pictures. If you want to see some of the structural work on my '65 convertible I've started documenting it at:

http://www.greasaholic.com/?p=9

And I assume you've talked to your blasting guy and you're satisfied that he knows the right media and pressure to use on sheetmetal, otherwise you'll quickly have a warped, unsalvageable mess.

 

['66 LTD]

Here, it's a primer by 3M that seals out moisture and, therefore, prevents rust.

On-line Product Catalog: Dynatron

 

[turbo2256b]

I have been using Rust Bullet lately a single stage epoxy, have also used the DPLF.
Also tried POR15. Have come to like the Rust Bullet as its the easyiest to work with.
Once it drys chemicals wont take it off. Have used it to fill in pits instead of products like Ice. You can spray brake clean, carb cleaner, wipe thinners, acetone, brake fluid on it with no effect on the paint.
Used it in conjunction with severl kinds of paint over it with no problems.

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

There are chemicals that will take it off, it's simply Urethane in it's base form. Nothing stronger that I know of. But... Heat takes it all off

Hey Arab, I too would tape the seams to make later parts easier, but a nice butane torch takes off Por-15 and DPLF or any other surfactant you can apply.

 

[677litre]

Thanks for the good advice guys.

I've used por15 before with mixed results. I've heard horror stories about using it on bare metal frames and unibodies before but haven't ran into issues yet. It does fade and brown somewhat.

How is the "Rust bullet" as far as that goes? Can it be paint over easily if need be? Is it UV sensitive like por15?

Due to time and money my goal is to blast the whole car and get the bottom and engine bay coated and painted so i can work on the mechanical and wiring over winter and save for body and paint till the spring. So the best solution to coat the underside and engine bay is what I'm looking for.

 

[randy chesnutt]

I used Rust-Oleum Truck bed coating on the underside, floor broard and trunck. I do this to all the cars I work on. It really looks nice. You can paint over it. The auto parts sell it and home depo sales it. Just get you a few rattle cans and get with. I'm sure you would like the out come

 

[turbo2256b]

Thanks for the good advice guys.

I've used por15 before with mixed results. I've heard horror stories about using it on bare metal frames and unibodies before but haven't ran into issues yet. It does fade and brown somewhat.

How is the "Rust bullet" as far as that goes? Can it be paint over easily if need be? Is it UV sensitive like por15?

Due to time and money my goal is to blast the whole car and get the bottom and engine bay coated and painted so i can work on the mechanical and wiring over winter and save for body and paint till the spring. So the best solution to coat the underside and engine bay is what I'm looking for.

Painting over it is easy just sand it lightly (as with any paint). I have sprayed rattle can and PPG paints over it, urathane, enamal, laucure.
Thje black is most sensitive to UV, silver not as bad.
Have rolled it sprayed it brushed it. Roller works great if there is some rough sand paper scratces you want filled. Seals over bondo real well.

If you spray it with a gun clean the gun quick or it will be toast if left to dry. I use a cheep harbour frieght gun to spray it.
I did the complete under side of my 87 grand marquis about 4 years ago. It now and then I wipe/ spray the under side with carb. brake or laqure thinner to clean it. Left it silver. Nice at car shows lots easyier to see under the car when working on things.
Under side was just sanded and scraped and applied over old paint and bare metal.
The Mustang sits sometimes for months before it is worked on again. Just coat bare metal old paint and now rust has come through.

Another product By KBS I havent tried yet they have top coats that are UV restant. Plan to use that on areas i want black on the frame were it can be seen one day. Last pic is underside of the Merc