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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If your car has undercoating that is visable
and quite old and Nasty looking, here's what to do!

Use truck bed coating to give your fender wells a good clean look.



Here's the materials you'll need.
Dupli-Color Truck bed coating $7.97 per can

* Scraper
* Drill
* Wire wheel
* Respirator
* Rubber Gloves
* Masking tape/painters tape
* Old Newspaper
* Saftey Glasses(Very Important)
* Asprin

First, Get your car up on jack stands and remove wheel. Please use Saftey Glasses! Begin scraping off the undercoating. With your first few scrapes, you'll realize what your getting into. This part is very teadious. But, the more undercoating you get off at this point, the better the results.



I know,your thinking why not use stripper? Very messy.
Here's a tip. Take your scraper over to the grinder and sharpen it up.



Continue scraping off undercoating. Try not to pry out factory seam sealing.
If you do, just re-seal before applying Bedliner Coating.






Once you have removed all of the undercoating, use a wire wheel and drill to remove undercoating left from scraping. Make sure you get into the nooks and crannies.



Next, Use painters/masking tape and old newspaper to Prevent overspray from getting on your paint/floor/frontend.



Now, Put on your respirator and rubber gloves and begin spraying on the bedliner coating. Note: Use light coats. This coating will build up to desired thickness. Again use light even coats with a few minutes between coats. Use in a ventilated area.






Finished surface is much more pleasant to look at yet just as protective, if not more so.



The before an after results are amazing!





You will be pleased with what you've done. It really makes a diffence! Compare both sides once you have completed one side. You won't believe how nasty it really did look!
 

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Rick,
Nice work and great photos. You should send your story into that show "Dirty Jobs", looks like their hurting for fresh stories. Wear your FM T-shirt during the filming :).
Jon
 

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Rick, good right up. I have done that in the past and it is a messy job. For the really tough undercoating, a right angle grinder w/ a cup brush works amazingly well. I will say if you do use a cup brush, they tend to throw off those sharp metal wires as they get used up so it is good to wear long leather gloves, a sweathshirt and a face shield. But they make super quick work of any and all undercoating. -Mike:)
 

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I have found that adding a little heat really helps this stuff come off.
I agree, a good heat gun is the ticket to easy removal. No grinder needed. I used Por15 afterwards, but bed liner is probably a 'better idea'. I believe I will try a couple of cans over the paint.

Wish I had a personal photographer. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
It seemed to get a little too gooey for me with heat. It did move easier with heat but, left too much goo for my taste. Not saying I tasted it! For the most part it did come up in pretty good chunks down to the metal. It's my wife Melissa (Mel's) car. I did did let her scrape until her palm was sore, then she took pictures! hehe. It's awesome though. She loves jumping in there to get her hands dirty....Kinda turns me on! I'm a very lucky man, I know.
 

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our 65 gal had about 1/8~3/8 inch of ziebart under it- was the absolute messiest job I ever did...I used the rt angle grinder and knotted cup brushes, filthy/noisy...I was also going to do the bedliner, but after cleaning it off and etching it with Ospho to prevent rust under the paint, and putting a coat of POR15 primer on it, kinda liked the light blue, so just blacked out areas you could see like wheelwells/trunk floor, left the rest light...really brightens it up when working underneath.
 

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our 65 gal had about 1/8~3/8 inch of ziebart under it- was the absolute messiest job I ever did...I used the rt angle grinder and knotted cup brushes, filthy/noisy...I was also going to do the bedliner, but after cleaning it off and etching it with Ospho to prevent rust under the paint, and putting a coat of POR15 primer on it, kinda liked the light blue, so just blacked out areas you could see like wheelwells/trunk floor, left the rest light...really brightens it up when working underneath.

Hey Ford4v429

WOW! that's some info I needed ~ THANK YOU.

Here's what I'm going to do being that I'm new to all this great restoration stuff.

My '66 Ford Convert. front fender is off the car (plus lots of other parts)
And low and behold I took off some 10 to 15lbs. of heavy tar undercoating.

THANK GOD it come to me to use my Burzomatic torch and a stiff paint scraper. Other than the smell (i wore a face mask to cover my ugly face . . .lol )

Seriously, the tar-like undercoating came off rather easily.

I just order: POR-15 Silver. However THANKS 2 U I got all or most of the rust off the inner fender and I'm going to hit the area FIRST with: OSPHO than the POR-15

Tell me what you think ? I'm I on the right track ?
Thanks again 4 sharing your experience and strength.

GOD BLESS
Schooner
 

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Hi FatNFast

WOW ! What a GREAT presentation you made with just how 2 perpare and apply the Dupli - Color Bed Coating.

I'm sure going to follow you lead.

I notice the color of your car.

I have a '66 Mustang Convert. It looks like the color of my car.

Tell me if you will please what's the official color of you car ?

Thank You FatNFast
GOD BLESS YOU

Schooner
 

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Hummmm ! Twilight Turquoise

That's my wife's 65 Hardtop. It is an original color called "Twilight Turquoise" Paint code 5 I believe.
Hey FatNFast

Mine is a '66 Convert. I don't know if I mention that before. I tend to forget even where the heck I live sometimes . . . .lol

Seriously, does the car paint have FLEX in it. You know like a sparkle in it ?

Thanks Guy
GOD BLESS

Schooner
 

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Looks great... I would like to see it sometime. I do not get down there much anymore, but do you go to the Suds in Greenwood? Or the cruise in/strip in Noblesville (I have not been to that street/area, but a friend always goes/talks about it and takes pictures)?
 

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FYI anyone trying to take the easy way out by using chemical products like Eastwood undercoat remover. It doesn't work for this type of undercoat, I know cause I tried.
 

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FYI anyone trying to take the easy way out by using chemical products like Eastwood undercoat remover. It doesn't work for this type of undercoat, I know cause I tried.
when I cleaned up the firewall on my '64 Mercury, I used oven cleaner to soften up the sealer, then hit it with a plastic putty knife. Worked great! I don't think its the same as undercoating but worked so well it might be worth a try on the undercoating.

a couple things to remember:
1. use eye protection and a respirator. Also wear rubber gloves! This stuff is nasty.
2. I tried several kinds and found the EasyOff original works best. No cheapo store brands, no scented kinds
 

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Great stuff, I just finished doing the belly of my beast and fenderwells etc, at least up to the Trans.

I found the undercoat scrapped off easier without heat as well. One tool I found a huge help, and not as noisy and dangerous was an 80 grit abbrasive wheel (one of those composite things), put that on a die grinder and have at it. It made quick work of the old sealer and paint, took it to bare metal in no time without a lot of scratching you get with a cup brush. Also safer, no wires flying around. I throttled my die grinder back to keep the RPM down.

I didnt go with the bed liner, I found Rustoleum black Satin is awesome, worked well over the POR 15. Not a flat paint, but not a sheen, and less texture. Put on the cheesy hand gun attachment and lay on your back and shoot it.

Thanks, Gydyup
 

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Excellent tech help man I just finish my front inner wheel fenders. They came out great and now I'm doing the rear.
 

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FYI anyone trying to take the easy way out by using chemical products like Eastwood undercoat remover. It doesn't work for this type of undercoat, I know cause I tried.

Ok update... I gave it another go around after burning through some 60 grit roloc discs.... and it works pretty good. It seems once you break the top layer it can penetrate. After that I found a wire brush cup on an angle die grinder blows it right off (surprisingly the $2 HF packs hold up real well got about an hour on the cup and it still looks pretty new). It's able to easily get into all the nooks and crannys you cant get into with a putty knife.

Note: there was no way in hell it was coming off without grinding previously, it ate wire brushes like there was no tomorrow.

It is incredibly messy though. I recommend wearing a full tyvec suit, full face shield, and p100 respirator, and the standard gloves and safety glasses. If it gets on your skin it's nontoxic but says it can cause irritation although it had no effect on me and I had it everywhere face, arms, neck, inside my ears with no reaction.
 
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