The factory alternator on early cars was some where in the range of 40 - 60 amps.
There is an article in the tech section that covers this subject.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/07/6GAlternator/
If you are running a decent modern stereo, halogen lamps, electric fan, electric fuel pump, hi power ignition...maybe an electric water pump. You need to add the current draw from each item to determine your amp deficit. Any thing over 40 amps is being pulled from your battery.
General ROT, rule of thumbis 80 to 100 amps at a minimum would be worth the swap. More woudl be better.
To complicate the mattter, you need to know how much the alternator is putting out at idle, that is as if not more important that what it puts out at speed. If most of your driving is in town, lots of stop 'n Go or cruising time...even a high total amp alternator may not create enough juice at or below 1000 - 2000 rpm to keep your battery charged.
There is an article in the tech section that covers this subject.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/07/6GAlternator/
If you are running a decent modern stereo, halogen lamps, electric fan, electric fuel pump, hi power ignition...maybe an electric water pump. You need to add the current draw from each item to determine your amp deficit. Any thing over 40 amps is being pulled from your battery.
General ROT, rule of thumbis 80 to 100 amps at a minimum would be worth the swap. More woudl be better.
To complicate the mattter, you need to know how much the alternator is putting out at idle, that is as if not more important that what it puts out at speed. If most of your driving is in town, lots of stop 'n Go or cruising time...even a high total amp alternator may not create enough juice at or below 1000 - 2000 rpm to keep your battery charged.