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Got the disc brake conversion done, now I;m starting the front end rebuild. I've got some control arms from the junkyard, but I can;t get the bushings and inner shaft off the uppers. Is this another "brute force" issue? Just thought I'd check if there is some trick to this before I open a can of whoop-ass on it. Thanks, Chris
 

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If memory serves me correctly, the bushings are torqued in the upper arm at 160 ft lb, pretty much cross-threading them into the upper arm.

You should also have a centering tool for the upper shaft. As you thread the bushings into the upper arm AND onto the shaft you must keep the shaft from moving for or aft. This will through off your alignment settings.

Suggest you take some plate steel and make a template that will fit snugly in between the upper arm and you can set bolts through to hold the shaft in a centered position. Most Ford dealers were supplied the tool by Ford, most of us just made our own.

Hope this will help.

Norm
 

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this is little bit old topic.. so what.. lol

I must change those upper shafts now.

WHow, shop manual says that torque litmit is 160-190 Ft-lbs.

I quess it is easiest to perform this upper arm removed ?

First I must disconnect upper ball joint , how to do it without tool T57P-3006-A ???
 

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pictures help when referencing tools part numbers don't help because each tool company uses their own numbers

anyways take the nuts off your balljoints then put them back on just till all the threads in the nut are filled up so you should have space between your ball joint nut and the spindle then take a hammer and beat on the spindle top and bottom make sure the nuts are on there and you will need a decent sized hammer nothing overly huge but at least 5 pounds 10 pounds is better.

Anyways when done with that put a jack under the lower control arm and just bring the jack up so it puts a little pressure on the control arms undo the shock take nut nuts off for the control arms make sure the jack has some pressure on the springs so parts don't go flying it can be dangerous, anyways take the nuts off slowly let the jack down and then take the control arms off.

if your not in a hurry and feel like waiting a week I will post a video on how to do this as i am rebuilding the front end of my car.
 

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true--- here is picture of that tool

I think I have orginal upper ball joints on my car, it is not installed with screws.. those are riveted to upper arm. I tried already to remove, it, it is like welded to spindle ..
 

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yeah factory balljoints are rivited in but you should not be trying to remove it from the control arm while it is connected to the spindle or is that what you are asking how to remove it from the spindle? you pretty much gotta cut the rivets out
 

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To breaK the ball joints lose I just losened the nut on the ball joint a couple of treads and got a ball joint breaker bar between the ball jount and the lower a arm and used a BFM and wacked it till it broke loose then put a spring compresser on the spring tightened it up till the pressure was off the arms. take the nut on the arm off and it will all fall out. Then use a cold chisel and a 5lb maul to chisel the rivets off. The new ball joints come with bolts.
 

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But...but.... but, Upper balljoint is ok, I do not want to replace it.
Come on, it is only 44 yrs old !!!
I just want to uninstall that upper arm, and then put new upper shafts to my galaxie.
 

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First I must disconnect upper ball joint , how to do it without tool T57P-3006-A ???
If you have a tie rod remover (not a fork), it can be used to separate the ball joint stud from the spindle. It only takes about one turn. A fork will usually tear the ball joint boot and the beating method will usually wear you out.

The second puller shown on the left side of the ill.

 

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Holy crap, I was reading through this thread, and didn't even realize I was the one who started it.
 

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Another trick to free up ball joints is to loosen the nut a couple of turns and take two hammers, a small sledge if you have one and hold it against one side of the spindle where the ball joint stud goes through and smack the opposite side with the other hammer and the shock usually pops it loose.
Mike
 

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Another trick to free up ball joints is to loosen the nut a couple of turns and take two hammers, a small sledge if you have one and hold it against one side of the spindle where the ball joint stud goes through and smack the opposite side with the other hammer and the shock usually pops it loose.
Mike

I second what Mike says. This is the easiest way; and you don't ruin the grease boot. You don't need to buy any expensive equipment to do this.

Larry
 

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If memory serves me correctly, the bushings are torqued in the upper arm at 160 ft lb, pretty much cross-threading them into the upper arm.

You should also have a centering tool for the upper shaft. As you thread the bushings into the upper arm AND onto the shaft you must keep the shaft from moving for or aft. This will through off your alignment settings.

Suggest you take some plate steel and make a template that will fit snugly in between the upper arm and you can set bolts through to hold the shaft in a centered position. Most Ford dealers were supplied the tool by Ford, most of us just made our own.

Hope this will help.

Norm
Norm

I have been searching for information on this. My 64 started making a loud clicking type noise, on bumps/speedbumps ect.which is coming from the upper control arm. I replaced the bushings with new ones, with grease fittings. The noise will go away for awhile after greasing, but returns. I do not have the centering tool, and i replaced the bushings in the car, without removing spring. When i torque, i think that am tightening the bushing to the shaft..and not the control arm. ( but i don't know for sure without the tool )
I can see the control arm squishing in when i tighten, but i am not sure if this is normal. ( i may be binding it)

I am thinking now that i may need to tack weld the bushing to the arm, or buy new upper control arms.
Even if i tack weld, how tight do i turn the bushings onto the shaft correctly.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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the shaft should turn on the bushings. they tighten into the arm only. thats where the centering jig comes in
 
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