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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a way to make adjustments to the vent window (the window at the very front of the door, not entirely sure if "vent" is the correct term). My passenger one shuts fine and does everything it needs to do. However my drivers side will not shut all the way, it leaves a small gap that lets a good bit of air in and is very noisy.

I tired forcing it and it doesn't budge, is there a way to adjust these things? Nothing is catching (that is visible) all the trip is in the right spot and nice and snug...

Any suggestions?

It's a 66' Coupe.

Thanks,
-Zig
 

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I had to adjust the vent window on my truck recently, 1988 F150. It was put out of adjustment by hooligans attempting to break in by forcing it open. I fixed it by applying pressure to the frame in the opposite direction the thieves did and restored a nice tight seal.

Is yours equally out on both sides of the pivot, or just one? I've heard some people find new, aftermarket rubber to be larger/fatter than original and make for closing/sealing issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had to adjust the vent window on my truck recently, 1988 F150. It was put out of adjustment by hooligans attempting to break in by forcing it open. I fixed it by applying pressure to the frame in the opposite direction the thieves did and restored a nice tight seal.

Is yours equally out on both sides of the pivot, or just one? I've heard some people find new, aftermarket rubber to be larger/fatter than original and make for closing/sealing issues.
It seems to be pretty even on both sides, however the rubber does appear to be new. When I was looking at it it didn't look like any of the rubber was jamming it up, I put some pressure on it to see and it had no effect.
 

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Crank operated vent window correct?

Does the crank itself move in and out as you crank it? As in, does it draw itself in tight to the door panel when turned one way and it pushes itself out away from the door panel when turned the other way?
 

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Here's a vent window actuator from a 64. The crank shaft has a worm gear on it that interfaces with a ring gear which rotates the wing. There is a retention plate for the worm gear and they can pop loose like this one. They can be fixed by seating the plate and staking the rivet boss to hold the plate in place. Without the plate in place, the worm gear travels in and out and can't deliver good drive to the wing window.

I will be fixing these before I put this 64 back together.




 

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I seem to remember when i had mine apart like 15 yrs ago, the back was pushed off on it also. But i discovered you can screw the mechanism in too far and then when turning the crank it couldn't crank it shut all the way. Maybe at some point someone had it apart and did the same thing i did when trying to get everything back together again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, it's crank operated, I'll have to check to see if it rests completely against the door panel.

I was able to grab some pictures of it last night, while doing that I noticed a few things. The trim is no longer riveted to the window frame, I'm wondering if this is causing it to jam up? Is there a solution to this without using rivets? Can I just grind the rivets off and use some sealant to glue it? Also, there is a TON of play in that window, there has to be some kind of issue with the mech. I tried to picture the degree of play as best as I could. I'm going to try taking it apart this weekend and see what I see. Any how-to's on how to get that bad boy out?

Passenger window (works fine)






Here starts the drivers window, this is shut "all the way".








I tired my best to picture the degree of play in it, it moves very freely.




Thanks again,
-Zig
 

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the end plate is probably off of your actuator like the one in my picture. that would explain a lot of play and could be the cause for the window nit closing all the way.

Looks like you have a very nice car there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the end plate is probably off of your actuator like the one in my picture. that would explain a lot of play and could be the cause for the window nit closing all the way.

Looks like you have a very nice car there.
Thank you sir!

I was looking at those pictures, I'm having trouble understanding what's broken and what needs to happen?---- Sorry I'm new to this era of vehicle, I've always worked on "newer" cars 1990+.

-Zig
 

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the bandaid finger is touching the loose part that needs to be tightened down.



It's a steel plate with a dimple that acts as an end stop for the worm gear that's on the crank (handle) shaft. This one had been forced too many times, the harder you force that crank the more pressure it puts on that plate. This one let loose on one of it's 2 rivet points (top). I can fix it by tapping the plate back down into place and staking the rivet boss with a punch and a hammer.

I'm taking a lunch break right now but when I get back out in the shop I'll repair this one and take pics of the repair and post. I have to fix them sometime, might as well do it now I guess. (both are broken for this car)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ahh I see what you're saying now. Seems simple enough. Can I just tack weld it? I've never done rivets before...

-Zig
 

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Its cast aluminum so...

Here, check it out.

There's the loose plate.



in this case it's so loose I can swing it to the side.



With the plate not in place like it's supposed to be, the worm gear can just screw itself out the back side of the housing rather than to deliver rotating force to the wing window shaft.



I cleaned things up and packed the gear housing with new grease.



I also greased the inside of the plate where it contacts the and locates the end of the worm gear.





Now for the rivet boss, it's still a bit flared out so the plate wont just slip back over the top of it. So, we'll have to reduce it's OD a bit.



I used a regular slip jaw pliers. I squeezed (gently) on the OD of the rivet and rotated the pliers. I'm trying to squeeze the rivet boss back into a round shape without removing material from the OD. I did get a bit of shaving action on the OD due to the serrations on the pliers.





now the plate goes back into place easily with the rivet bosses protruding through the plate retention holes.



Now it's a good idea to clamp the plate to the housing with a bit of pressure, reasonable pressure, you don't want to crush or break anything.



Notice I'm clamping to the housing, not to the worm gear shaft.



Next I took the assembly over to a vise. I grabbed an old axle stub end for use as a rivet buck. You can use the corner of the vice or what ever you can make work.

I'm resting the opposite side of my rivet face against the "buck"





Now it's just a matter of recreating that flared/expanded rivet shape. I'm going to tighten both rivets while I'm at it. I actually started with the pick end of one of my body hammers, because it happened to be within arms reach and it had the right shape.

I would suggest starting with a blunt tipped centering punch to get the initial flare shape started. Then you can finish off the job with a small ball peen hammer.



There ya go.



I'm tellin ya, that thing is silky smooth now, it's going to work like new.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
WOW! Thank you very much for taking the time to do all that. You should submit that to the Tech Exchange. I'm going to give this a go hopefully this weekend.

The rivets seem reasonable simple to manage, worst case I'll use some JB Weld if I have no other options.

Any suggestions for getting the rubber seal around the window back where it belongs. It has factory rivets that have come out.

Thank you again!!!
-Zig
 

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No problem, i hope this can help.

If the factory rivets have actually come out you might be able to get some new ones in there. If the rubber pulled itself over the rivet head (more common) then u need to get the old rivets out first. You can use a dremel in there to grind the head off the rivet and push it through the hole. You can get new pop rivets at a hardware store. Alum rivets will be easier to install and will be strong enough for the seals. If u have to take the frame out of the door you could drill the rivets that attach the side window channel to the wing frame. But I would use steel rivets there when putting back together.





Otherwise maybe consider some automotive weatherstrip adhesive, clean the rubber and the frame with alcohol, apply adhesive to both surfaces, some adhesives call for a bit of tack time. Just follow the directions and maybe use a bunch of little spring clamps or clothes pins to hold it firmly in place while the adhesive dries.

That could get you by for a while (with some luck)

:)
 

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Fantastic! Step by step with pictures. Just awesome!
better yet.......
drill a pilot hole in center of dimple.... then screw in a self tapping sheet metal screw....
you never have to worry that crank gear will come apart again...

that's what I did to mine....:)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, it's.... Somewhat fixed? lol

Decided to take it all apart tonight and see what was going on. Once I got the mech out I started playing with the window to see if I could get it closed without the mech in it (thus diagnosing it being the trim or the mech). Well it still wouldn't shut so its the trim, for sure. So I ground down some of the rivets pushed the seal in as much as I could and got the window shut. So it's shut and sealed... But if I open it then the issue will happen again. So I'm going to have to re-rivet it, but this should get me through the winter. I'll fight it again come spring when I actually want the window open.

As for the mech, so the rivets on the back were in fantastic shape, so that wasn't the issue. After looking at it more I realized that a screw was missing (must have been the last owner or the shop that restored it) pictured below. Found a screw put everything back together and there is no longer any play.

So like i said it's... fixed... ish... for now.... lol









Wanted to make sure I updated this thread for anyone in the future.

-Zig
 
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