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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a simple question. Can you run victor jr heads on a stock 351w shortblock. Mine is a 74. some say you have to dremel the pistons and others told me the valves are just to big and new pistons are needed. I want to see how fast i can go with a stock bore bottem end 351, but if i have the pull the motor apart it only makes sense to throw in a stroker kit wich will cost me more. let me know.
 

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you'll probably have to notch the pistons. The Jr valves are 2.05 intake & 1.60 exhaust and stockers are 1.84/1.54, IIRC.
 

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with the stock cam? I dont think you will see much, you may loose bottom end maybe pickup some midrange but then by top end where the heads really work the cam will poop out. You could go much faster and much cheaper with a 125 shot of n20, unless you are going to change the cam and intake the victors will be a waste of $$$$. You would be much better off with some twisted wedge heads and the TW's you wont have to touch the pistons and you will probably gain bottom end as they have great low lift flow and you can get them for a grand.

my 67 351 vert http://htwheelz.smugmug.com
 

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i couldnt even bolt rpm heads to a standard short using a reasonable cam without p/v issues,and the vic jr uses bigger valves that the rpm heads so im thinking it would be a wasted exercise bolting vic jr heads on a standard shortblock,you wont be able to put a cam in there that will use the heads to there potential without having major p/v problems
 

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We're not going to get into the debate of which heads are better here...He askes if the Jr's would fit the stock block. Yes, they'll fit...the pistons will probably have to be notched, but they'll physically fit just fine. There probably are better heads for this combination, but I can assure you..the Jr's are probably the best bang for the buck and give a lot of room to grow with. Might be a stock 351w for now...but later on when ya get tired of 400 HP, you'll want 500...and they'll still support that much and not peter out like a lof of street-oriented heads will do. To add to that, the Jrs can be had for just over $1000 without springs...and I suggest buying them with valves only so you can match the springs to YOUR camshaft. Also, you can get the Isky tool, which will allow you to notch the stock pistons to work with the bigger valves...if needed. Clay check the clearance, they might be ok, but chances are you'll have to enlarge the reliefs a little bit.
 

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This:

On 2007-01-11 18:11, htwheelz67 wrote:
with the stock cam? I dont think you will see much, you may loose bottom end maybe pickup some midrange but then by top end where the heads really work the cam will poop out.
Is completely untrue.

The Victor Jr heads will work well with a stock 351 (if you have ptv clearance), and the stock cam is actually one of the better ones to use in this situation. Put a big cam in, and you'll have a dog. With the stock cam, those heads, and a nice dual plane intake...you will gain torque, gain horsepower (if you have screw in studs use 1.7's for now, this will jumpstart the gains), and do it in a usable rpm range.

This whole crap about big heads having dog doo performance is a very antiquated mentality! Try it, rent the notching tool from Isky, and enjoy your new power. If you really want to take advantage of the heads, get a custom specced cam from a reputable grinder. Just don't be surprised (if he knows what he's doing) when the cam you get has little more duration than stock, and only a bit more lift. Those changes WILL make a difference though. I know a kid running 11's on a stock 302 shortblock, RHS heads, single plane intake, and way too big a header. He drives the car every damn day of its life too.

This:

On 2007-01-11 19:43, mavman wrote:
We're not going to get into the debate of which heads are better here...He askes if the Jr's would fit the stock block. Yes, they'll fit...the pistons will probably have to be notched, but they'll physically fit just fine. There probably are better heads for this combination, but I can assure you..the Jr's are probably the best bang for the buck and give a lot of room to grow with. Might be a stock 351w for now...but later on when ya get tired of 400 HP, you'll want 500...and they'll still support that much and not peter out like a lof of street-oriented heads will do. To add to that, the Jrs can be had for just over $1000 without springs...and I suggest buying them with valves only so you can match the springs to YOUR camshaft. Also, you can get the Isky tool, which will allow you to notch the stock pistons to work with the bigger valves...if needed. Clay check the clearance, they might be ok, but chances are you'll have to enlarge the reliefs a little bit.
Is something you can take to the bank.

Mav nailed it dead on (personally I prefer the RHS heads...but as was said, they aren't the ones in question). Nice work bud =).

Cris


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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Is1BadFord on 1/12/07 2:31pm ]</font>
 

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FWIW, I ran the AFR 185s on a stock '69 block with a pretty stout hydraulic roller (tried two, actually, a custom that was pretty close to an XE274 and an XE282) and had no issues with PTV clearance, but the motor just never really made the power it should. RPM intake, three different carbs, a good exhaust system, everything looked right on paper, but we never could figure out where the power was. I finally tore it down and sold everything off and started over. I believe the issue with mine was the dish - great for PTV, but I don't believe the compression was much over 9:1, no matter what the calculators said . . . personally, I won't ever spend a whole lot on a top-end job again unless I already know exactly where I"m going next, in which case I'll just wait and do it all at once. I just don't know enough to work through variables that I didn't have control of, and it's real money when all is said and done.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 69convert on 1/12/07 10:10pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea i already have got a vic jr intake and im going with a hydr roller. ill buy the heads and if the valves hit i guess ill just get a new rotating assembly. thanks for the info.
 

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You won't need to get an entire rotating assembly, but if you're like me, it'll give you an excuse to upgrade....

Just get the Isky tool and use a cordless drill to enlarge the valve pockets a little. Works pretty slick...just don't do a bonehead move like I did and put a gouge in the cylinder wall! You can rent the tool from Isky, or sometimes a machine shop will let you borrow one (or rent one) or you can buy them from Isky. They arent' that expensive, IIRC. A friend of mine has a set of them that I used...they were all dull and much too large (most were BBchevy size..2.40+ intake and 1.90+ exhaust) but I found a couple that worked. That was on a 400 Ford that I'm doing up for my brother while he's over in Iraq.
 
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