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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a question. Hopefully, you guys don't think it's a dumb question... My HS Shop teacher said way back in the day. "The only stupid question is the one that wasen't asked"..

First. Here's a picture of the drivers side almost completed floor. Front and back. I will use automotive seam sealer inside and under the welds.

CenterFloor.jpg

Okay, now see all the strengthening bends, ridges, or what ever you would call them?. In 1962 they filled these with seam sealer. I had no clue why?. They arent seams. All they did was to strengthen the floor under your feet..

Then it hit me. They filled em' because of the carpet. It's so the carpet dosen't from the "gullies". There are a few with holes, but, it's main purpose is to keep the carpet level and even.

I don't want to fill them using seam sealer. Way too expensive. Could use a whole quart can just for those... So what can I use to fill these that isen't costing a arm and a leg, or even, a arm?.

regular calk, no. Dab?, No.... I thought about the in expensive construction adhesives. No, not meant for metal and over painted areas, and not so thick either. Need something like silicone, but even that is expensive.

Could use the 1.50 calk in a tube. Dosen't harden all the way, is a little plyable, That may be a decent selection....

Before I purchased anything, what do you guys think?. car seam sealer is 30 dollars a quart. Seems to me thats expensive just to fill in to keep the carpet level.

Anyone else think of this problem????? Any suggestions that someone is using?... Your thoughts would be appreciated on this "Off the wall" subject.
 

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Three ideas - in my Great Grandfather's '29 Model A we found wood strips in grooves like that. Anything that fills it would do. Small gaps around the edges and ends would never be seen or felt. Second - roof patch. I would look for a semi-hardening type. Third - flocked resin. Flocking is finely chopped cloth fibers. Sort-of like dryer lint. It's mixed with epoxy or polyester resin to make a paste. Often used to make the thick fillets in corners of fiberglass boats, planes and cars. Resin suppliers can be surprisingly cheap, but you'll have to check local prices. Offhand, my first thought is for the wood strips, and just seal them in with seam sealer or window sealer, so it would look like original solid sealer. Let us know what you do and how it comes-out.

David
 

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I didn't fill them in either of my cars. I did buy extra jute padding to help with noise and heat though.

I wouldn't worry about filling them. You cant see the ridges in my cars.

Jet
 

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As Jet says above, i used a thicker jute backing, before carpet install, after 6 months carpet is well settled in & you can;t see any ridges or indents
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was thinking on using an additional layer of under padding. I have a large enough piece, I can lay about 3 layers if I want.. Of course, I don't need that many....

I also thought about using thick plastic, like in some business displays. Cut it to fit, and use the seam sealer to "glue" the strips in place. I touch at the top and the bottom. Just to hold it in place.

But, so far, it's do nothing and just put the under stuff in and the carpet when I get to that point. If I start to see the shapes coming through in a few years I going to be purity up set. LOL...

For the under padding (it's not a foam) I was going to cut around the high places like when it butts up to the beam that the seats mount to, and run the carper directly over. The only holes I have to make is the spring eye and the seat bolt holes.

Anyone else.. Comment?.
 

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I've restored quite a few vehicles of different vintages and owned more than 70 vintage cars and only a very few had the strength pressings filled.

95% of the time it's simply a jute padding, and 5% of the time it's filled.

Almost NEVER do you see the carpets showing those depressions regardless of the amount of Jute or lack of filler.
 

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If its reallly bugging you, why not fill in the depressions with a Hushmatt, you know that really expensive aluminum film backed with a thick, lead like insulator.
And, if you don;t want to pay the cost of what i think is over priced insluators, go to your local Car audio store, they use a material just like the Dynamatt, Hushmatt brands, but its a generic car audio stuff, Come is 8" wide strips, about 10-12' long. Approx. 1/3 the price of name brands tho.
Its a great heat & sound insulator & will fill those depressions
 

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I used Fatmat on my Fairlane. I pulled the carpet back out later, and put another layer of Jute in it.

Wasn't to happy with The heat and noise coming through the carpet with just Fatmat.

Extra Jute did the trick.

Jet
 
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