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Discussion Starter #1
Want to replace the GE 2D1 sealed beam head lights, with a halogen bulb for whiter light. The truck (Ranchero) is pretty much stock, no extra stereo or amps, anything like that. The alternator is a reman 55 amp. It's probably a dumb question, but I always taught my people that "the only stupid question, is the one you don't ask". Can I upgrade to a halogen sealed beam headlight, or will I be overpowering the system?? I don't know if the previous owner put these in out of necessity, or just to keep it stock, (and cheaper). Unfortunately, I'm in logistics, not electronics... I'm thinking I'm probably mixing apples and oranges, but, if you all could school me, I would appreciate it. What are some good choices? I probably drive it at night twice a month for 1/2 hour, so not a major thing, but I would like a bit more light...
I use Sylvania SilverStar's in my F-150, and much whiter light.
Thanks in advance, Barry.
 

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Have you tried looking for new technology sealed beams? Would be surprised if you cant find a silverstar as a sealed beam.
 

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I like to use the IPF head lights they are available through anybody like 4 wheel parts that carry the ARB line of parts. they are super bright BUT will require the use of a relay to prevent burning out the headlight switch. i simply installed a relay under the voltage regulator and pulled the battery power of the regulator. has been working now for 15 years.
if you need instructions and would preferr a kit you can contact Mark Hamilton at Mad enterprises he sels a relay kit for just what i spoke of.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you tried looking for new technology sealed beams? Would be surprised if you cant find a silverstar as a sealed beam.
That is exactly the question I was looking for. I just needed to know if a better sealed beam bulb would be too much for the system. I don't want or need to go with anything that requires a special switch or relay.
Just want plug and play, without burning out anything.
Thanks, Barry
 

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You can update by using heavier wire directly from the battery and run thru two 30 amp relays and it is NOT difficult.
One for the high beam, one for the low beam.
Use the original hi/low beam wires to switch the relays.
Dead easy.
There is an article on FTE (Ford Truck Enthusiast)and a couple of other Ford truck forums if you do a Google.
Dirty Dingus
 

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Just replacing your stock headlights with sealed beam units doesn't require anything. I've been using them in my car for 10+ years and have not had a problem at all.

I've thought about getting a pair of those replacement lights that use the replaceable bulbs (H series type) but the sealed beams a fine. Some day....

John
 

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2D1 is just a general size/lens/contact spec for PAR56 7" dual filament units. They can have 55W or 60W dual filaments as specified. The sealed halogen replacements draw similar total power (about 110-120 watts) and so no changes are needed to run them.

However (there's always a 'but'), the uprated halogen types can often exceed the stock power wattage substantially, such as the SilverStar, that roughly doubles the low beam wattage and also increases the high beam. You might not be able to do that for long with the original switch without issues. So, if only going for brighter and whiter with a pair of 'standard' halogen H5024 or H6024 replacement bulbs, you're fine. If going more powerful, do as suggested earlier and upgrade your wiring to bypass the headlight switch and also use heavier gauge wires.

Another good reason to upgrade your wiring is to get more light from what you have. The following clip is from a discussion about rewiring:
PSIG said:
You will get brighter lights and better reliability by replacing the wire from the relays to the lights. Minimum 14 gauge and preferably 12 gauge for factory wattage and 10 gauge for higher wattage uprated (off-road only) bulbs.
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mikestylezz said:
Since I rarely use high beams can I just run one relay for the low beams.
Yes, but your old switch and internal circuit breaker will become less and less capable as the years add up. I would suggest doing all of it for all the benefits, although doing just the lows first is fine to get your feet wet and do the highs later.

FYI - our wires and connections are suffering after so many years, and cause a loss in voltage (voltage drop), and weren't particularly beefy in the first place. Trivia fact: A 0.8 volt drop causes a 20% loss in headlamp brightness. Yes, less than 1 volt. This is why rewiring with relays and heavier gauge wire is so popular, as you get noticeably more light without even changing bulbs, and the capability to optionally use more power to boot.
Hope that helps.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes that helps. I just wanted to exchange the original sealed beams with the low end (basic) halogen, NOT Silverstar. I'm looking at a Sylvania box that fits our big-rigs. It says 35-65w, so very similar to original which says 50w-50w. I think I understand what the one writer is suggesting with the relays, I just haven't had much experience with electrical, but... if it's that easy, I should be able to tackle it. Think I'll try basic halogens first, if any trouble, then tackle the wiring (might HAVE to then, and then It'll force me to learn. Sometimes that's the best incentive. Thanks to all, Barry,
 
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