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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
so, i currently have a tuff stuff aluminum waterpump on my 66 390 car. TBH, not terribly impressed with it. I fought leaks on it for a few mos, minor but just damn annoying. still on occasion get a minor drip.

Then, i notice that in traffic sitting for long periods at idle, the temp can creep up. not terrible, but everything else in the system works quite well. Unfortunately, the pulley and belt system i have slightly under-drives the water pump. Im not happy about that. But it is what it is. as soon as the motor revs a big, it drops down almost immediately. that being said, since im basically over the whole aluminum waterpump and its leaking issues, I need to replace that 1st. does anyone have any back-to-back experience with these 2 pumps? the flow-kooler is supposed to really move some water at low idle. But, is it better at that particular task than the tuff stuff aluminum one? thanks. -Mark
 

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'72 Ltd brougham 4dr.
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I picked up a flowkooler for my 400 a couple years ago to replace an off brand alloy pump I had purchased kinda cheaply at a swap meet,that was brand new but didn't quite match the bolt pattern correctly so I chalked that one up to "gettin what ya pay for" kinda deals...The flowkooler was a bit pricier but fit spot on, and worked great for these engines- Cleveland design- known for cooling issues.However I found the construction of the housings to seem on the smallish side,and of quite thin wall casting. I'm guessing the lightweight is the primary factor in the design,but just looking at it side by side w/ an o.e. pump it looks somewhat scaled down a bit.
It's only been in service a short while so I can't speak to the durability as yet,but I'm hoping the guts of this unit will be comparable to o.e.as my original cast iron unit was still tight and leak free when removed.
I'd also mention that I would have liked to have had the opportunity to inspect "in hand" the alloy pumps that Weiand manufactures as they were some of the 1st ones I came across advertised in the car magazines years ago...although, like alot of things these days,they may not be of the same quality, fit or finish as when 1st offered years ago.Same as the tuff stuff offerings I'm not particularly impressed,having a bad experience w/ an alternator..another one I had to "chalk up"!
Best advice is if your within reasonable driving distance to try to visit one of the bigger speed shop stores (Summit, Jegs)that may have the product in stock where, like in the old days you can unbox and have in hand to compare quality before purchase.
Good luck bud. S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks. ordered the flowkooler today will report back with results after it comes in and is installed. im nowhere near a reasonable distance to visit a speed shop that will have fe stuff on hand. My local speed shop guy thought i was nuts to build an FE but also very helpful. lol.
 

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thanks. ordered the flowkooler today will report back with results after it comes in and is installed. im nowhere near a reasonable distance to visit a speed shop that will have fe stuff on hand. My local speed shop guy thought i was nuts to build an FE but also very helpful. lol.
I put a high flow FlowKooler on my 1963 406. Works really great. But make sure you seal and really torque down the backing plate. I had read that they have a tendency to leak some.if not sealed and tightened well so I tried to seal mine well. But I still have a odd type leak. It does not leak when driving or when I park for a while. But when I park it in my shop over a drip tray, it will not leak till the engine totally cools off. Then leak a tablespoon worth of coolant. Also consider putting in a high flow thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
^ good to know. I have a high flow thermostat in already, but thanks its a good suggestion.

I was planning on def making sure the rear plate was evenly torqued for sure, but also a good point. Ive had issues w the aluminum one since day 1 and since I have to pull it yet again, i figured id try one that can move a little more water is all.
 

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I have no experience with these so called hi flow pumps but I have heard and read a lot of people not satisfied with them. In 1970 Ford came out with a FE pump for trucks that had a larger impeller that did work at the time. If you are located in the southern part of the country one good trick is to block off the heat port under the intake manifold. I am pretty sure that is probably already done but something to try if yours is not blocked. Just my 2 cents.
 

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im running edelbrock rpm heads and performer rpm intake, i assume you were referring to an egr port? It doesn't have those. I'm in south carolina.
I think in the end you'll have to fix the underdrive issue, but the Flowcooler is a good pump, problem is, so are the Tuff Stuff pumps. As a reference point, with many many builds of different flavors, I have never seen a pump change much, even from stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
^ I agree 100%, but the main reason I'm changing is the persistent annoying drip/leak out of the tuff stuff pump. Ive had iot off 2x already, and I'm done with it. Im just sick of dealing with it. I figure if I have to pull it again I might as well change it. I'm not expecting a miracle, and its very useable as it is, (temp wise) but a slight improvement would be nice. If not, i'll def try to source a slightly larger dia crank pulley. 3 pulley late damper style.
 

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You have the good parts but I agree with getting the water pump back up to speed in regard to the underdrive set up you have.
Are all the seals around your radiator in good condition? Auto Krafters has all the correct seals to insure that all the air gets directed through the radiator and not around it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
everything is brand new under the hood so no problems there. moving its fine. revving up motor a bit it drops immediately, and i have 2 12" electric fans that move plenty of air. also, I looked and both cvf and march pulleys are the diameters i have, and im not going back to that stupid damper/pulley setup. I might be able to get 1/4" smaller on water pump but thats it. Like said, not over heating but builds heat faster than i like at idle on hot days. cool/cold days (under 80), dead even at 185-195.
 
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