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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I cured this problem when I discovered my cam was retarded but even after correcting the cam I still have a very hot engine (ie, manifold, heads, water pump, carb very hot to the touch). The weird part is the water temp is steady at 200 degrees and I have no boil over.
 

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I had that identical problem on my 351 Bronco after I removed the mechanical fan and installed an electric fan with thermostat.

Apparently the mechanical fan was circulating lots of air around the engine and cooling it somewhat.

The electric fan took quite a while to come on and the heat from the exhaust manifolds was unreal.

Another thing to check of course would be a faulty mechanical thermostat.
 

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I have been considering using Hood Loovers to let some heat out of the engine compartment, when sitting stopped, you can feel huge amounts of heat coming out under the front of my car. If your standing in front of it.

You have more then just engine heat, the headers are spitting out lots of heat, and without air movement from driving, the heat will only raise into the engine compartment. Especially if you just did a 1/4 mile pass, and come to a stop, those headers will be "white-hot" for a few minutes, no time to cool down, so they heat up your engine compartment.
 

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Is it possible you're pushing the water to fast through the block to soak up the heat?
I would not think so. I have a 33% more capacity pump, and a high flow stat, and the water is at a reasonable rate when it is flowing in trhe radiator. With a regular thermostat, and a high capacity pump, the water is barley a trickle into the radiator. That is a bad combo to have.

Plus, the water temperature gage has a slow responce time, so you get average engine temperature, not dynamic temperature. There is more then enough surface area in a block and heads to make sure the water is at the same temperature as the block, no mater how reasonably fast the water is moving.

Could be too fast for in the radiator, to extract the heat from the water, but I would not think he has a huge water flow rate.

If you have a thermostat radiator cap installed, a good functioning system is 187 in the block, and 155 - 160 at the radiator. That is almost 30 degrees of cooling. A good differential of 30 degrees, means the radiator has spare capacity to cool.
 

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Is there any possibility that you are running the wrong head gaskets and the water flow to or back from the heads is restricted ? Possibly if you can check the block water temp versus the head water temp that may show something.
 

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Borrow a laser temp gage and see what the metal is really running as far as temp. Cast iron at 200F is going to be way to hot to touch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ran down to Summit and threw one of these in there. Not sure what the advantage of this kind of thermostat is but I recall some guys recommending it. It's the one where the spring assembly is in some kind of enclosure. Well, I wouldn't say my engine temps are where I've seen them on other motors but my water temp is now between 185 and 190.

Thanks guys.
 

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That is a Milodon High Flow Stat. It flows over 130% more water then a standard stat.

A Satandard Flow Stat and a high flow pump is a combination that does not work well at all. I recently ran that experiment to verify this.
 

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I've noticed something similar with my new 408..It runs nice and cool,just a tad under 180 which is where the thermostat opens but the metal around the engine compartment is very hot..I recently opened the hood and was looking at something and put my hand on top of the end of the shock and I couldn't believe how hot it was..Then I felt the export brace and it was the same..My theory is maybe the aluminium top end of the motor is disapating more heat upwards than a cast iron setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
"maybe the aluminium top end of the motor is disapating more heat upwards than a cast iron setup?"

I'd like to see this verified because I wondered the same thing and yes the top end of my 460 is all aluminum. I have/had cast iron motors that run the same operating temp for which I could rest my face on the valve covers.

Sounds like something that could easily be confirmed.

Either way, that new stat I got has helped bring the temps down to a more comfortable range (could be better). Gonna get one for my 78 Ford truck too.
 

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I've noticed something similar with my new 408..It runs nice and cool,just a tad under 180 which is where the thermostat opens but the metal around the engine compartment is very hot..I recently opened the hood and was looking at something and put my hand on top of the end of the shock and I couldn't believe how hot it was..Then I felt the export brace and it was the same..My theory is maybe the aluminium top end of the motor is disapating more heat upwards than a cast iron setup?
Hmmm, add my 393w to the list. I have good cooling plus a shroud and yet all metal objects are very hot. Temperature wise my car runs cool. My headers are uncoated so I have been blaming them for the excess heat . . . . .
 

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Putting a air dam along the bottom of the core support helps to keep the hot air from recalculating to the front of the radiator when at ideal.
 

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Hey, all that heat has to go somewhere. It's either in the motor or it's in the air around it. It doesn't just go away. Cool motor, hot air usually means your cooling methods are efficient. And just a thought to start a flame........lots of folks on this board say you can circulate water to fast to cool the engine, yet they seem to solve their cooling problem with hi-flow pump and thermostat. Just food for thought. ;)
 

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With high flow pump and high flow stat, the water exchanging into the radiator is not a torrent like you would expect..... it is like having a garden hose ( open, no nozzel) flowing at a slow rate... not a gushing rate like you may think.
 
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