[2bird]

I had an unfortunate time driving in the night rain with the headlight being so dim and the instrument panel flickering. An accident waiting to happen. Well did some research and found out that halogen lights and modern stereo's eat up too much amp out of the stock 65amp alternator. I'm not going to write up a how too: but give you the places to buy these items for cheap vs. using Powermaster alternator kit and Scot Drake relay kit.

Instead of Powermaster 130amp alternator for $250- use this $89 free shipping for your alternator:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Get the 30" 6G cable and ends at Walmart for under $10.
Order the Mega fuse housing and 150amp fuse at O'Reilly for $18.

Scott Drake relay kit is $120- use this one for $30 w/ shipping:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

The installation is really simple and it's everywhere on the web. My '67 Falcon is has a much brighter headlight and instrument panel. No more flickering when I bump the stereo and 10" sub box. Hope it helps someone.

Here's the headlight:

 

[arnoldtx]

I Bought the same 3G alts for $89 shipped free. They work great. If you have belt sqeel during start just install a deep grove under drive pulley. I used the 3 1/4" pulley. Still have more power than I can ever use. Under full load have over 14 volts.

 

[2bird]

It's likely the best deal with that free shipping. The guys were super helpful too. I forgot to note that I needed a V belt version and was sent the serpentine type. I called them and right away they mailed me the V pulley right away and received it the next day. Quick install with the impact wrench.

I don't have that squeel yet- but, I've heard that it sometimes will. Would you remember that part number on your V belt and was it the local parts store purchase?

BTW: Did you install the Green/Red wire on the 3G alternator to "I" wire on your voltage regulator? It's suppose to make the alt. warning light work. I haven't had a chance to install it yet seeing that I haven't purchased 6' of wired to connect them together.

I Bought the same 3G alts for $89 shipped free. They work great. If you have belt sqeel during start just install a deep grove under drive pulley. I used the 3 1/4" pulley. Still have more power than I can ever use. Under full load have over 14 volts.

 

[colkerr]

Wouldn't a 1 wire setup eliminate the voltage regulator? I got rid of mine.

 

[2bird]

Yeah it does deal away with the voltage regulator... but the alternator warning light in the instrument cluster is constantly on because it's not connected to anything. I can just remove the bulb and call it a day, but I read on the Powermaster website that it can be installed by using the direct connection to the alternator's green/red wire lead. I haven't tested it yet- but I'll try it on my next day off.

Wouldn't a 1 wire setup eliminate the voltage regulator? I got rid of mine.

 

[2bird]

Test drove it earlier in the nice 70 degree California night and it's amazing. I turned on everything: headlights, fog lights, blasted the stereo full blast, and thumped the bass(if that's possible with AC/DC's Highway to Hell)... checked voltage at idle(550rpm) and it read 14.2v. With all the accessories and lights off it at 14.5v

**I haven't talked about the headlight relay... it came in the mail about 3 weeks because the seller's from Bangkok. I know you can make this but the cost of parts is about $25 not including time/effort. For about $30- you can't beat that! It very well made and works as it should. I actually installed it first before the 1 wire alternator. The brightness was really good... but, you still have a slight dim when the car is at idle, so I knew I had to use a higher amp alternator. **

 

[colkerr]

Now you can run halogen headlights no problem. That'll make a big difference too. Glad it all worked out for you.

Matt

 

[PSIG]

Yes, wire the green/red wire to make the dash indicator bulb work properly. Why some guys don't want a working ALT light is beyond me. It's ONE wire connection for crying out loud.

David

 

[arnoldtx]

I use a voltage gauge instead of lights. See link below for a pulley if you need one later.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

[retyler]

Yes, wire the green/red wire to make the dash indicator bulb work properly. Why some guys don't want a working ALT light is beyond me. It's ONE wire connection for crying out loud.

David

Yes, you can wire it in the harness and remove the regulator and all it's wiring.

 

[2bird]

Well- I tried the green/red connection to the alternator warning light and no go. I think I'll go with a voltage gauge... any recommendations.

I use a voltage gauge instead of lights.

 

[arnoldtx]

The type of gauge is really a personal preference. If you are using a set of under dash mech gauges you could get a three gauge pod and ad the volt gauge. There are so many ways to go these days. They even have a digital that plugs into the cig lighter.

Auto Meter 2366 Autogage Silver 3 Gauge Panel | eBay

 

[chrisaz]

I think buying an alternator like this makes sense & based on the members' good experience with that seller I gave him a shot. I ordered it about five weeks ago, and got it weeks later. My main gripe is the lack of communication, the second gripe is that when we finally heard back from him, a week plus after my order & were told it'd be put in the mail before that week was out.. I got it 6(I believe) days later. I know he shipped it out about a week after telling my wife it was on it's way(the shipping label was date stamped for four or five days after my wife heard from the seller.) I understand personal / family emergencies pop up & I'm not a totally heartless prick but to not get any substantive contact & smoke blown up my ass pisses me off. I don't remember specifics of contact with the fella, my wife handled that but I'm willing to provide details to any interested.

I'm not trying to ruin this guy's life or business but I am trying to save y'all from the headache we went through. Btw: do y'all know if I have to mount a specific v-belt pulley to the shaft to have it function properly or would ford late 60's era alternator pulleys in general, work?


Chris

Ps: it'll probably be a few days before I hop back on the forums, so if I'm slow replying, please bearient. Thanks.

.
...
Instead of Powermaster 130amp alternator for $250- use this $89 free shipping for your alternator:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
...

 

[2bird]

I think I got my alternator within a day because they were local. The alternator works great for me. The v-belt pulley it came with is about the same diameter as the stock one that was on my Falcon. It works and haven't had any issues. Hope you put a negative feedback on the seller.

 

[PSIG]

Btw: do y'all know if I have to mount a specific v-belt pulley to the shaft to have it function properly or would ford late 60's era alternator pulleys in general, work?

Chris - all standard Ford and GM alternator pulleys will fit. I usually use the one from the alternator I'm taking off.
:tup:
David

 

[chrisaz]

I saw the original author say he used a 150 amp fuse on a 135 amp alterbator system,.... shouldn't it be 135 amp? Help me understand that, please. I need the fuse/its plug in bits & ill have all needed parts. please let me know asap. thx

 

[PSIG]

Chris, the 130A alternators actually come installed in Ford cars with a 175A fuse from the factory. This is because the system is rated for 130A, but you don't want it to pop with momentary surges as devices are turned on and off. So, Ford uses the higher-amp fuse in production cars to avoid accidental failures, but still low enough that a dead short will blow it before serious damage is done to the wiring, internal regulator, or diodes.

You can get the fuses and fuse holders online or at local car audio and boat shops. While Ford uses the MegaFuse style, I have been using the ANL type as they are now more common for both the fuses (like these) and the fuse holders such as this.
:tup:
David

 

[chrisaz]

PSIG: thank you so much!!!! I'm going through Galaxie withdrawals, and getting the alt. installed + fixing a big ass fuel leak (at the pump, i think) are the only things keeping me off the road.

Everyone: I have another question/problem, I have A/C & P/S on my 352* and i've removed the generator but replaced the bracket & most bolts so i didn't lose them. Anywho, every 1-wire write-up i see is a non-A/C car & so i'm a bit worried looking 2 the tensioner pulley for the ac pump. Has anyone done this upgrade on an AC equipped car and/or know what to do? I have bought stock ford fe alternator brackets & have all the mounting hardware for the generator; hopefully that'll help. I've taken pics showing what the area looks like with the weird, long rear generator mount bracket still attached between the tensioner mount plate & the water pump... those should be uploaded within 24 hours.

Thanks for your time and I'm sorry if my grammar blows; i'm kinda broken in the head.

Chris

*it's a rebuilt motor & I'm not sure what year the block or components are, will look @ block & water pump then post it, also within the next 24 hrs.

 

[chrisaz]

let there be pictures!!!! to recap: I have A/C & power steering on my 352(not original motor) and the tensioner (sp) pulley plus it's brackets seem as if they'd interfere with the low mount alternator... i left the generator bracket it (the lowest shown) when removing the generator after i noticed it was connected to the tensioner pulley's mount... anyways, yall looky pictures & input suggestions, plz?

 

[chrisaz]

anyone familiar with doing this upgrade on a car with AC? Or does anyone have pacs of this upgrade on an AC equipped FE?

Thanks for your time,

Chris