Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,025 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys, I came across a new 8124 intake that I got real cheap since the guy went with a 351. I decided to take off my old style Ford Aluminum high rise and stick this 8124 on just like FordMuscle did on that bone stone 289 and see if I might have some better bottom end torque. I was doing a precheck of parts and fit and came across one problem.

It seems the heater hose elbow hole that goes into the intake is alot bigger (3/4 hole) then what is normal (5/8) for these older Fords. Is there a late model Mustang elbow that's got a bigger thread area......I looked in my newest Ford Performance catalog to see if Ford offered the same intake. They do and the hole is just as big, I really don't want to do the adapter route but if I have to I will.

I figure a late model Mustang elbow or maybe a big block elbow might be what I need but I'm guessing here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,316 Posts
The hole is threaded with NPT (National Pipe Thread) fittings. The sizing is screwy. Your small block had 3/8"NPT threads (about a 5/8" hole) and you need a 1/2"NPT fitting (about 3/4" hole). They are a common size across many car brands, and your local parts store probably has a generic one hanging in the isle. Even the local hardware store would likely have them in the plumbing section. Verify the barbed end is the correct diameter for your hose.

David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
The hole is threaded with NPT (National Pipe Thread) fittings. The sizing is screwy. Your small block had 3/8"NPT threads (about a 5/8" hole) and you need a 1/2"NPT fitting (about 3/4" hole). They are a common size across many car brands, and your local parts store probably has a generic one hanging in the isle. Even the local hardware store would likely have them in the plumbing section. Verify the barbed end is the correct diameter for your hose.

David
If they don't have a suitable elbow, they should have a brass step-down adapter will allow you to use your current elbow.

Paul

1969 R-Code, 4-Speed, Drag-Pack Cobra Fastback Project
1967 Mercury Commuter Wagon w/mild 429

My Car Restoration Projects
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,025 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I sure miss speed shops! I had to order the darn parts so I could hook up the temp sensor and heater elbow....it's really bad when part stores don't know what your talking about and they kids don't have a clue! So now the parts will be here on Monday but I'll have everything ready by then and finish it up by Tuesday the latest.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,025 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hey guys, is the heater that goes to the intake the return line? My new right size fitting doesn't have that brass tube that goes down into the intake. I figure the fitting doesn't really need it as long as it's a return line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,316 Posts
The manifold line is the outlet to the heater core lower inlet. The lower water pump fitting is the return from the heater core upper outlet. The upper water pump fitting is the bypass inlet from the thermostat housing to the water pump to circulate water during warmup. If your system is properly filled with coolant, the stand-pipe is not necessary. If your system is low, your heater will stop working without the stand pipe to keep it below water level (to a point).

Knowing this, you can use it to detect a low coolant level before the overheating begins in the cooler months at least. This is the system used by Ford in later models, where they place a sensor in the manifold outlet, and differential in temp between the block and outlet temps triggers a low coolant signal. Otherwise, grab a piece of brass tubing from the hardware, whip out your torch and solder an extension on it. BTDT

David
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top