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Discussion Starter #1
Hi-Ya all,
The calking Ford used on body seams in 1962. Naturally, I have to replace some of that in the areas I'm replacing the sheet metal and such...

Where can I find the right stuff? OR, is the home calking, or RTV, or Silicone, the stuff to use today?.

Also, does the calking go on the bare metal, or should it go over the primer?.

Any heads up on this would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Hi-Ya all,
The calking Ford used on body seams in 1962. Naturally, I have to replace some of that in the areas I'm replacing the sheet metal and such...

Where can I find the right stuff? OR, is the home calking, or RTV, or Silicone, the stuff to use today?.

Also, does the calking go on the bare metal, or should it go over the primer?.

Any heads up on this would be appreciated.

Thanks
You don't want to use home chalking or RTV. You want to use a automotive seam sealer from a auto paint and supply. For inexpensive you could go with 3M Fast n Firm which uses a normal chalking gun. or step up to 3M UltraPro urethane which is more money and you need special applicator, But is better sealer. There are also 2k products like Automix but even more money and more expensive applicator.

You want to primer first then seam seal.

I use Fast n Firm alot and it is pretty good.
If you have access to the special applicator the UltraPro is really good but pricey.

Never tried the 2K.

On my own car I used panel bonding adhesive for all seams but it is pretty pricey, needs special applicator/gun and is put down on bare metal.

Fast n Firm is not bad if you don't want to spend alot.

There are other brands that people have used that seem to work well also. My supplier sells 3M

You want to make sure you completely seal the whole seam. wear neoprene gloves, press/rub the sealer into seam with finger, and feather the edge. any gap(s) at all and you can have seam failure

Lou
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You don't want to use home chalking or RTV. You want to use a automotive seam sealer from a auto paint and supply. For inexpensive you could go with 3M Fast n Firm which uses a normal chalking gun. or step up to 3M UltraPro urethane which is more money and you need special applicator, But is better sealer. There are also 2k products like Automix but even more money and more expensive applicator.

You want to primer first then seam seal.

I use Fast n Firm alot and it is pretty good.
If you have access to the special applicator the UltraPro is really good but pricey.

Never tried the 2K.

On my own car I used panel bonding adhesive for all seams but it is pretty pricey, needs special applicator/gun and is put down on bare metal.

Fast n Firm is not bad if you don't want to spend alot.

There are other brands that people have used that seem to work well also. My supplier sells 3M

You want to make sure you completely seal the whole seam. wear neoprene gloves, press/rub the sealer into seam with finger, and feather the edge. any gap(s) at all and you can have seam failure

Lou
Okay... Instead of the seam sealer. How about using the undercoat spray stuff?. Where I have to seal is unseen anyway. It's adjacent to where ford used undercoating. It's the spot between the front door and behind the rear of the front fenders.

I have planned on using the undercoating in the wheel wells, as it was from Ford. I think it would be better to use the undercoating in the area, at least to the front doors, where the water runs down from the cow. Yes? No?...

Thanks
 

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You really do need to use the 3M seam sealer for any area where you chipped/scraped the old out or put in new metal. It may take years to know why but you will eventually know if you keep the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You really do need to use the 3M seam sealer for any area where you chipped/scraped the old out or put in new metal. It may take years to know why but you will eventually know if you keep the car.
Could I use Bondo?. Mostly where I need to use some stuff is where I replaced or cleaned up the metal. There is sooo much area on the car that will be replaced or cleaned up. The "stuff" alone will cost me several hundred dollars of the 3M stuff.

Nothin' else like around 10 bucks a tube?.
 

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Could I use Bondo?. Mostly where I need to use some stuff is where I replaced or cleaned up the metal. There is sooo much area on the car that will be replaced or cleaned up. The "stuff" alone will cost me several hundred dollars of the 3M stuff.

Nothin' else like around 10 bucks a tube?.
You can get 3M Ultrapro for around $17 a tube.

I agree with Hottarod you really need to use seam sealer to do it right.

3M 08300 Ultrapro Autobody Sealant

Lou
 

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I bought some black seam sealer from Napa or B&B auto, it wasn;t 3M but thier generic brand for 1/2 the cost of the 3m stuff. Goes in a standard caulk gun, worked just great.
Eastwood makes a good seam sealer too, used their stuff when it came up on sale, its very nice to use, Eastwood stuff just seemed to spread & stick better, easier to control the bead your laying down, Bondo gets brittle,
Don't use bondo, it won;t expand & contract & will eventually just drop off!
 

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Bondo AKA plastic filler is just that, filler. Not made to be an adhesive or a sealer. Use body sealer over primer period. I work at a large collision shop and I can tell you that when repairs are made on any car the seam sealer application can make or break the job. I have had to redo several seam sealer jobs of other techs from not looking correct to wrong product in wrong location to someone just not caring if it leakes or not. Some areas on a car it can be brushed on. in other areas it may have to have a fine line. One trick not to make a mess is to masking tape along the edge on either side of the seam. Lay in the sealer and work it in to the joint, smooth it with a solvent much like you would a household latex caulk with water, then untape andsmooth the edges with a "acid" brush and some solvent. Just depends on what area it's in and how you want it to look. Practice on some scrap.
 

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Bondo AKA plastic filler is just that, filler. Not made to be an adhesive or a sealer. Use body sealer over primer period. I work at a large collision shop and I can tell you that when repairs are made on any car the seam sealer application can make or break the job. I have had to redo several seam sealer jobs of other techs from not looking correct to wrong product in wrong location to someone just not caring if it leakes or not. Some areas on a car it can be brushed on. in other areas it may have to have a fine line. One trick not to make a mess is to masking tape along the edge on either side of the seam. Lay in the sealer and work it in to the joint, smooth it with a solvent much like you would a household latex caulk with water, then untape andsmooth the edges with a "acid" brush and some solvent. Just depends on what area it's in and how you want it to look. Practice on some scrap.
Yeppers! Dats da way to do it! :D
 
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