[josepheblack]

What Oil weight and brand do you guys recommend? I am running a 1971 302 with about everything aftermarket.
Other than synthetic, is 5W30, 10W40, 10W30 the best?

I have always favored Castrol GTX.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Blue Fastback]

Depending on your climate and engine condition. I would say 10w30 or 10w40.

 

[71hotrodpinto]

Do you have a roller camshaft or a flat tappet?
Sounds like you might have a flat tappet. If so use something with a high zinc content like Vavoline Racing oil.
I used to use Valv 20/50 Racing oil in my 2000cc Hotrod engine and when I tore it apart after 80000 or more miles the bearings were pristeen. i was actually shocked. (if the crank hadnt bent id still be running it and not gone with a V8.)
I get that information from Esslinger Engineering who has been racing the 4 banger ford for eons. They told me not ever to use a synthetic in that engine or any sliding lifter/follower camshaft because youll get cam wear. With high performance springs especially!
Todays regular oils synthetic or otherwise dont have the additives to deal with the massive friction thats inherint in flat tappet cams.
On my current engine, a hyd roller 302 I plan to run the 20/50 to break it in and then run synthetic after 15000 miles.
Thats my take on it.
Good luck

 

[tonys10sec306]

i all ways used 10w30 oil. i havent tryed anything else yet!!!

 

[josepheblack]

Thanks for the input guys, I'm running a solid roller.

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

New motor and 10W30 will take you a HALF MILLION MILES with no problems... Just change your oil often. wether it be sinthetic or dino, keep it clean and vicsous and your bearing's will love you back!

FE

 

[tjcrawfo]

Synthetic oil is superior to any regular oil in all situations.

 

[71hotrodpinto]

Im afraid its not. If you have some other information other than an opinon to the contrary then id like to hear it.
Just curious why youd make a blanket statement like that with no information to back it up?

 

[bluelightning302]

im afraid it is,look at this article,and he sounds a lot smarter than you

http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

 

[dennis112]

On 2006-03-25 02:23, bluelightning302 wrote:
im afraid it is,look at this article,and he sounds a lot smarter than you

http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

Wow, a nice educational article on oils.

Be sure to grab a drink and a snack before tackling it.

 

[wildosvt01_OLD]

I like this part of the article..

Also, thicker is not better, no matter what your mechanic or engineer told you. 20W-50 has 40% more viscosity (resistance to flow) at operating temperature than 10W-30. This means that your engine has to work 40% harder just to move the oil around inside your engine. An engine with thick 'oil' produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing to shorter engine life. A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be 'pumped-up' to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions, better economy. And the engine will last longer too!

_________________
1965 Galaxie Fastback-351C 2v/C4 with a 3.50 posi

1973 Gran Torino Sport (sold)

2004 Cobra
2004 Marauder

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: wildosvt01 on 3/25/06 8:36pm ]</font>

 

[mdh1979]

I second the http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm article, some excellent info there.

 

[347LX]

I saved the article, but i browsed through it quickly and it seems to me that 10w30 mobil 1 synthetic is the way to go.I also fiqured out that this guy knows way to much about oil lol!!!!!!!!!

 

[71hotrodpinto]

Wow i guess id better change my thoughts completely on the basis of this ONE person!!

god ive seen the light

http://www.crower.com/misc/faq.shtml#h
Hmmm a cam manufacture recommending NOT to use a synthetic oil in flat tappet cams?? Wow they must not have read this other guys opinons.

http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
Read the section on how zinc is an anti wear additive and how no synthetic oil listed has it. Only the standard oils have it. Now the downside is that ,as explained, high levels can cause depsoits over time. So best to keep the 3000 mile change interval.
Again what i get from this is, synthetic in a newer tech roller cammed engine and standard oils in a flat tappet old tech engine.

 

[bluelightning302]

hmmm notice that on the crower site is says to use synthetics if your manufacturer recommends it!!! hmmmmm also notice it doesnt mention anything about daily driving (no other kind of driving for that matter),only for racing, hmmmmmm i guess if you wanna save your $40 DOLLAR lifters use the other stuff.If you want your engine to survive,use synthetic hmmmmmm which has the better trade off? hmmmmmmm i hope you actually follow the light

 

[71hotrodpinto]

On 2006-03-25 10:49, bluelightning302 wrote:
hmmm notice that on the crower site is says to use synthetics if your manufacturer recommends it!!! hmmmmm also notice it doesnt mention anything about daily driving (no other kind of driving for that matter),only for racing, hmmmmmm i guess if you wanna save your $40 DOLLAR lifters use the other stuff.If you want your engine to survive,use synthetic hmmmmmm which has the better trade off? hmmmmmmm i hope you actually follow the light

Your an ass

 

[1 Bad 88 GT]

Basically use the lightest weight oil recommended for your engine clearances and intended use or abuse, as it may be.

Also there is not one reason to use synthetic oil over fossil oil than to make the owner feel all warm and fuzzy inside and help them sleep at night. It'll just make you poorer, faster.

A use of a proper maintenance schedule is more important, the fact that you change your oil is more important than what type of oil it is.



BTW if you simply want to piss this away as the ramblings of a know-nothing pencil pusher so be it. However I will have you know that I've worked on damn near anything that can roll, crawl, climb, haul, plow, fly, dig and cruise around so this comes from experience, take it as you will.

 

[bluelightning302]

so $20 extra bucks every few MONTHS is gonna make you poor? Loosen the purse strings a bit there...........

 

[1 Bad 88 GT]

That's beer money.

 

[mikemustang289]

If your in it for the long haul, meaning your trying to get 500,000 out of your motor, synthetic is the way to go, as long as you start using it from the beginning when the car is new.

Most of us here are building new motors much sooner than that, hell, I probably don't even have 10,000 miles on my 289 and I"m already replacing it for something else so the fact that I've always run synthetic really doesn't matter anymore.

don't forget about the filter, if you're gonna run synthetic there's no point using it if you run cheap ass filter. I've always run a K&N and if you take one apart you'd be amazed at how much more filter material there is and how well it is made.