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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best Trackion bars for my 1967 ford mustang coup. I have big prob with wheel spin. Of course i need wider tires, but traction bars would help alot i would think. If i floor is all the way i can like spin form 0-50mph. I was thinking of getting nitto drag street tires and new rims soon that are 10inch's wide.

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I have a 1967 Ford Mustang with a 289hi-po motor stock, T5 trans, Jba shortie headers,
3.80 gears, about 300hp putting in mods soon.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: masterd on 1/31/02 9:08pm ]</font>
 

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Try traction masters, and some goodyear street slicks. Traction bars wont cure the wheel spin but will help with traction a little buy curing any wheel hop, they keep the leafs from wraping up. I like the traction masters because they dont hang down like a slapper bar does, they require a little welding but are pretty straight forward.

I am real happy with mine. There are many options out there this is just one that I like and works for me.

Orville
 

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If you are in the same boat as I am (no welder at home) I use the Competition Engineering traction bars. $150 out of summit and you don't neet any special tools to install.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your input all. I will get some traction bars then get some good tires.
 

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Hmmmm, do the Traction Masters help cornering any?
 

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Dragman I am confident that they contribute to the awsume handeling of my car, even as light as it is in the back. When I got crazy sideways at the track last year I corrected it to bring it back straight and let off of the gas, and it snapped straight almost instantly with no body roll that I can remember, it did not slide or coast to a straight position looking the right direction it just went straight, it was cool
 

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Who has the best price out there on the Traction Masters??

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-Walt-

1964 Comet 289 C4 daily driver
TFS TW, Weiand Stealth, Comp XE268, Rhodes lifters, TFS roller rockers, Carter 625 AFB, Hooker SuperComps
"These go to 11." -This is Spinal Tap

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dragman64 on 2/5/02 6:57pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nastystang My Jba a awsome!. I had Jet Hot Coating coating them inside and out. How much are the Trackson Masters?


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I have a 1967 Ford Mustang with a 289hi-po motor stock, T5 trans, Jba shortie headers,
3.80 gears, about 300hp putting in mods soon.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: masterd on 2/5/02 9:14pm ]</font>
 

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The Traction masters are going to run you about $100. Virginia classic has them for $99.95, it depends on where you buy them almost any early mustang outlet sells them. The issue about welding is not a big one, bolt the plate to the bottom of the rear end, grab your parts, head to a local shop, attach the bar with bolt and bushings to the plate after you get there and it is on the rack, ( you need to have the weight of the car on the rear end when welding the ear to the bottom of the frame ) put the ear,bolt, bushings together for the frame portion, hold it to the bottom of the frame and burn it, I cant see a decent shop charging more than a few bucks for a couple welds, and 5 min to put it on the rack.

I wish I had hot jet coated my headers.
 

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I have traction masters on my 66 stang & they work great. I did however go to the hardware store & buy some copper tubing & cut them to length to fit inside the bushings so that they wouldn't wear out, & they are still soft enough that they have a little give. I got them at Dallas mustang & I think the best I remember that they ran around $80.
 

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I use TM bars also and they work fine. I welded a steel plate to the sub frame for reinforcement where the bar bracket welds on. If you have sub frame connectors or plan to install them it may cause a problem becuase they usually attach in the same spot. Contact TM to find out what part number you need. I also use the JBA shortys and they work great.
 

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Re: What are the best Traction bars?

If hanging lower than the springs and easy to see is an issue for you, or you have issues with sub-frames, you may want to consider the override bars (pic below) rather than underride like the TM's. They serve the same function, but ride above the springs. If you have fabrication abilities, you can make your own of either type, and the basic dimensions are shown below for the TM type from MustangSteve and other sources, although they are so inexpensive from some sources as to not be worth the effort to DIY.

David

Override style:
 

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Re: What are the best Traction bars?

If hanging lower than the springs and easy to see is an issue for you, or you have issues with sub-frames, you may want to consider the override bars (pic below) rather than underride like the TM's. They serve the same function, but ride above the springs. If you have fabrication abilities, you can make your own of either type, and the basic dimensions are shown below for the TM type from MustangSteve and other sources, although they are so inexpensive from some sources as to not be worth the effort to DIY.

David

Override style:
Does there not need to be some sort of slip action on these bars? Seems to me there would be some binding.
 

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Re: What are the best Traction bars?

Does there not need to be some sort of slip action on these bars? Seems to me there would be some binding.
No, slipping is not needed. There is some 'give' in the end bushings, but that's fairly minor and mostly for twisting actions, i.e. - one tire over a bump. Think of it like a control arm in a coil spring rear, or a springy 4-link. The leaf springs shift the shackle for suspension flex, allowing the front sections to be rather solid and yet no binding as the pinion can still rotate positive as necessary during spring flex over bumps, but spring wrap under torque is controlled by the bar.

BTW - be aware that the original override bars are not as effective in stopping wheel hop as the spring is still under compression, instead of tension, and still wants to wrap (curve the spring S-shaped) under torque, although not nearly as bad a stock. This can be minimized or adjsted if necessary with spring clamps or additional forward-only stiffening leafs.

David
 

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I would have to agree that the Cal-Tracs are quite effective, but mine wore very fast on a daily street car. A weekend warrior may do alright, but the set I ran on the street had less than 15,000 miles when I inspected them just in-time to avoid failure. I heard some light clacking noises but it didn't sound like it was coming from there when driving. It was. I had to weld-in all the bolt holes, grind and re-drill, and replace all the pivot bolts, and roller sleeves. Each tube and Heim joint were okay. Not a huge deal, but not real cheap for good quality replacements, and a bit aggravating. Discomforting is if I had not inspected, I could have had a really bad failure of the spring eye bolts and some ugly damage, or worse. Great for the strip, though. YMMV

David
 
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