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1965 Ford Falcon Futura
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm running a 302 that's warmed up a bit. Normal street driving the temp ran from 180 to 195.It has gotten up too 200 on a hot day and real slow stop and go traffic. I installed air in it and now it runs 180 to 185 at freeway speeds but when I get in slower traffic where it's stop and go the temp has gotten as high as 208. I don't feel so safe when it gets that high.I'm afraid that when I go to the Woodward Dream Cruise I will have a real problem with over heating.It goes into total grid lock in spots. Some times it takes 1 to 1 1/2 hours to go 1 mile.I never had a over heating problem at the cruise for the last 2 years without air.Roger
 

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When I worked for a shop in VA, we were trying to check out the cooling fan on some GM v6 car. Couldn't get the fan to come on with the radiator open and a thermometer in the coolant. Finally, the boss said we needed to put the cap on or it would never heat up enough because it had to get to 235 before the electric fan came on. Many cars have a 235 degree fan switch on them.

So, just saying I have seen them go way past 212 without boiling if the system is tight and you have good coolant mixed.
 

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I run a 460 stroked to 545 with a Hampton 871 and fitech fuel injection big tire car I have a 180 stat I run the timing at 38 locked electric water pump and a afco dual pass radiator with a Taurus fan at 88 out I have reached 208 now before the afco dual pass radiator I ran 235 but now a hot day cruising 206/208 idle 195 in traffic cool day 195 cruise 180 idle or in traffic may want to go for a dual pass there about 260.00 at afco oh and I use a 18 pound cr cap
 

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water doesn't boil until 212. 50/50 coolant doesn't boil until ~230 or more, depending on the pressure of your radiator system (cap).
208 wouldn't bother me, as long as that's about as far as it goes.

i'm assuming you have electric fans, with that AC system?
 

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Although not crazy temps sounds like you need more fan flow … Some good advice here ..

As suggested Water wetter definitely helps also
 

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Woodward cruise in mid-Aug, in Detroit? Yeah it'll get warm. Some of the info you didn't provide was fan size, blade count, Rad size, core row #, alum/copper/brass, fan shroud, fan clutch ???, (usually on AC vehicles) fan distance from rad, and old style or newer (70+) rad type. Older style with in/outlets in pass side had issues from the start especially when combined with a 4 blade fan. Helps in solving the problem knowing what we're looking at. Or in usual internet trouble shooting, what we're not looking at.
 

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1965 Ford Falcon Futura
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Discussion Starter #8
Woodward cruise in mid-Aug, in Detroit? Yeah it'll get warm. Some of the info you didn't provide was fan size, blade count, Rad size, core row #, alum/copper/brass, fan shroud, fan clutch ???, (usually on AC vehicles) fan distance from rad, and old style or newer (70+) rad type. Older style with in/outlets in pass side had issues from the start especially when combined with a 4 blade fan. Helps in solving the problem knowing what we're looking at. Or in usual internet trouble shooting, what we're not looking at.
It has a over sized 19x19 cross flow aluminum radiator, two one inch rows core
IMG_20200628_203114.jpg
.high flow water pump, high flow thermostat,16 inch electric fan.I was looking at the fan today . The label on the fan motor has a arrow for air flow that points to the front of the car. The fans air flow goes toward the engine . The fan has the curved blades. Can this type blade be used as a reversible fan?Here's a photo of the fan.
 

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i had a similar setup on my F100. it couldn't keep the engine cool, i think the lack of a shroud makes a BIG difference.
 

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Sometimes just reversing the wires does that for you. But that's probably all they do at the factory depending which way you want the fan to blow/suck air. It's always better to have the fan behind the Rad and not in front of it.
 

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All fans are design to turn a certain direction you are correct, DC fan can be reverse by switching the Negative and Positive wire/polarity and the fan will reverse it's direction. But the fans blade design is no longer at it's efficiency. There is also a possibility damage to the DC motor due to blade being reversed and torque is applied other than design.
 

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to add to #8/9 post:
There are abt a doz things U can wrk with to effect running temps. The big one - proper tune.
Here's the areas:
  • leaks in system; air in system
  • correct shroud (fan 1/2 in/1/2 out unless 'flex', that = 3/4 in)
  • coolant - mix, additives, age, cleanliness;
  • water pump - operation, condition; cavitation;
  • heater core - leaks, condition, it;s fan on/off;
  • block - water passages;
  • hoses - colapse, leaks;
  • thermostat - condition, temp rating;
  • radiator (sz, # rows, clean?, construction, materials - I like ol style copper)
  • radiator cap - pressure rating, condition, design;
  • fan (blades, design, clutch, mechanical? ele?)
  • flush system last yr or 2?
Too cool (below 180*F) can B a problem too.
 

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Something I just thought of, what is your alt output max amps? Reason I ask is, at idle your alt puts out much less which actually will reduce the fan speed just due to less output at idle. Just as headlights will change due to alt output. If you have an older alt, 40 and maybe 60 amps is the output which isn't enough with todays systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not sure what the rating is on the alt. I plan on installing a 140 amp alt , I also plan on switching out the fan for a much higher cfm fan with shroud. Right now I'm looking into installing a control for the fan speed. I also need a kick up switch to raise the idle when the air is switched on.I think these improvements will fix my problems.Roger
 

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What is the crank pulley size? If small you could be loosing WP speed at idle. Enough before the AC, but not now. Larger crank pulley will spin the WP faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just checked the alternator ,It's a one wire 100 amp .Is it big enough to support the air,a high out put fan,msd ignition,and lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I found the recite for the alternator in the folder the owner gave me. TFF-7068ABULL Summit list it as a 100 amp alternator.
 

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again, you can figure this on ur own. Look on the tag on each accessory, write down the energy use of each ina column. Add the column up. Add 10% for all the loose grounds, etc. Find the listing for the alt output. The last must B a bigger number that the 1st. C if there is enuff extra for the ele fan...
 
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