Ricky the pulley size is the same as the. stock pulleys. I replaced them a while back to get the two grove set up. The water pump is a high performance pump.Every part on the car is like new condition. I flush the cooling system every spring.I install new antifreeze at that time.I just checked the thermostat and found that the thermostat had been gutted. I replaced it with a new one that a high flow and 160 degree setting.Right now I'm looking at getting a high out put fan. My radiator seems to be of a odd size.It's 18 3/4 -18 3/4. I'm trying to find a fan that will fit it and build a shroud for it.I did it on my Cobra and it worked great.I think it's going to cost a bit more than I was hoping for.I took a ride the other day in the car ,it was 84 out side . It was so nice inside with the air.I will get it all sorted out and I know that I will be happy in the end.Never had a hot rod with air. I guess I'm getting old.
Get the biggest CFM that'll fit. I'd also use a relay so as to not burn up wiring. Wiring also has to be able to take the amps. I've seen people use 18gauge wire with a little 5 amp switch and try and run 35 amps thru it.
I already have a 30 amp fuse wired in to a relay with a manual switch for the fan.When I first got the car it had a toggle switch wired to the fan with 16 gauge wires. I installed a relay with a 30 amp fuse a with much heaver wires.Right now I'm trying to figure out which fan will work for me.I went to the you pick it the other day and bought the dual fans from a ford.Got them home and found out there's no way I can fit them in a 18 3/4-183/4 space.Anybody out there need a set of 13 inch fans let me know.Ricky you said I should add up all my drains on the system. The only thing I have other than the lights are the air and the MSD box and fuel pump.I'll try to find out how much they use tomorrow if it's not to hot .
Well I've done some upgrades in the last couple weeks.I bought a new fan that listed at 3000 cfm, had a custom fan shroud made, I took it to a local auto cruise . It was very close to 90 out and the cars were moving very slow with lots of stopping. The air works great, I turned the air down after awhile. The temp got up to 203 degrees. As soon as we moved a little the temp dropped down to just a little under 200.After a few minutes it was down to 195.My only problem was when I turned the motor off the starter was slow to turn the motor over. Seems to have a heat sink problem . It starts but kinda drags till it starts. I plan to get a starter blanket and solve that problem.Still working on wiring up the fan to turn on when I turn on the air. Also I'm wiring a kick up switch to increase the idle speed when the air is turned on.Roger
Starter might also look at a mini if you don't have one and increase cable size. I use #2 welding cable with auto lugs on them. Custom made put when you put the amps down line they never even get warm. Starter never knows what hit it.
I already have the welder cable with heavy copper ends. I put a starter blanket on it today. It did help with the starter drag.Right now I'm trying to adjust the carb. I've never been good with carbs. I plan on giving it a real good try and if I don't get it right I plan on taking it to a friend who is great at tuning. The problem is he's swamped with work and I don't know he will be able to get to it.
quickfuel 650 cfm with mechanical secondaries.This is the carb with no choke. I have been trying to find out how to set the mechanical secondaries.Right now the motor is running like crap.I plan on going out to the garage tomorrow and see if I can get it to run better.Roger
I had my alternator and battery checked. The alternator was putting out 11 volts.the battery was fine.I replaced the alternator with a 150 amp unit.The battery stays charged and the volt gauge shows 14 1/2 volts with the air running and the fan on as well. The fan seems to be moving more air now.I finished wiring in the kick up switch . It seems to be working right.Later this winter I plan to install a fan control box which will turn on the fan as soon as I turn on the air.Still waiting for the tuner. Kind-a sucks,I have every thing fixed and it's running so crappy.Roger
Start with the idle circuit. Make sure the sec plates are closed. Turn the side idle screws in GENTLY all the way and back out 1 1/2 turns. You probably need to pull the float bowls and check the PVs. The number on them tells you about what Vac they open and they might be leaking.
Describe "crappy"? lots that can be.
I did the idle circuit as you posted . How do you check the power values? The float bowls have a sight port and the fuel is in the center of the port. The engine starts but is hard to keep running unless you hold it at a high idle. Once it warms up it will idle.When you give it gas it stumbles and then runs pretty good. Once it gets pass the stumble it hauls ass. I messed with the timing a while back. The guy I bought it from said to set the idle up to 3k and set the timing to 38 degrees.The distributor was locked. I changed the springs to allow it to advance. I tried to get it to be set at 14 degrees at idle and advance full at 3k. I'm not sure what it is now . I plan to check it tomorrow . I have a spring set from MSD.I set the carbs front accelerator pump at .014. I checked for vacuum leaks and found a leak at the base gasket. I replaced it.Tomorrow I plan to go out to the garage and go over the timing and see where that gets me.The way I always dealt with the PV was if the engine ran rich at idle ,I checked the the vacuum and divided it by two and added .5.It alway worked for me when I had a carb that ran rich at idle and burned my eyes.This car seems to be running rich at idle . If you stand near it when it's idling it burns your eyes and nose.Roger
Several ways to check the PV. One I use is to push it in and hold a finger over the hole to see if it goes back. Other way is, I gently just suck on it. Yeah I hear you all laughing, (works for Kamala too) but it tells if it's leaking. I even check new ones this way and you can check your dist Vac Adv with a vac pump when it's not running or running.
Checking timing at 3K only makes sure all your spring and vac adv is in the dist.
The Acc pump on the carb, I set that to pump as soon as I move the throttle. The .014 wide open never has worked for me. When I drag raced, using a Holley 850 DP I set the pri acc pump to set spraying at about 2500 rpm power braking in gear and mash the gas. Worked great, but it would stumble getting it up to that RPM which I knew it would be like that. But I got a full 50ccs that way.
For your PV, run about a 4.5 or 3.5. Your formula means 17" = 8.5 + .5 = 9.0. Way to soon. Rough cams run about 7-10", and a PV of 9 will be opening and closing all the time at idle.
Have you checked your pri butterfly open clearance? Should be just barely off the plate.
I know that all the springs are in the distributor.It is a MSD with mechanical advance. I didn't get to the car today. Wife wanted the lawn cut and edged. It really needed it. So tomorrow I hope to have some time free.At my age you shot your load on one job a day.I do think there might be a problem with the PVs.From what Iv'e read on line my carb has two PVs.The car has had a very strong raw gas smell at idle. It ran great but I think it was running rich all along.When I first bought the car it had a C4 built by PA Trans ,it was the trans built to support 1000hp. It was a full race trans. Trans brake,reverse manual shift. I took it out and had a AOD built with a Brodder Racing VB. The trans shifts as hard as the C4 but has overdrive. Now I can cruise the freeways at 65mph and not use a tank of fuel go to the local cruises.The carb is a Quickfuel 650 racing carb. It has no choke and manual secondaries.I know the ford is your's in the picture.My nephew builds a lot of parts for the fox mustang and some of the guys buy them for their Fairmont. There's a few Fast Fairmonts running around here.What engine is in it?Roger
It has a 460 C-6 Currie 9" 4.30 Locker. Only difference between a Stang and the Fairmont/Zephyr is the sheet metal and driveshaft. I even used the Stang 4 link parts on the rear suspension and a tubar front crossmember and and lower control arms. That dropped 75#s right f the front end.
One of the guys around here has a Fairmont with a twin turbo small block that puts out he says 700+ hp.Iv'e seen the car , it's nice ,but I've never seen it run the 1/4 mile.It is amassing how fast the fox body mustangs are running.Roger
Actually the Fairmont/Zephyr is a better platform. Yeah Stang people will whine about that. But look at what Bob Glidden did with a Fairmont, UNBEATEN! Longer wheel base gives better weight transfer and more stable. Stang is actually about 500 lbs more right off the bat.
My Zephyr weighed 2750#, 6 cyl, with spare tire and 3/4 tank of gas. Then with a 460, C-6, 9" Rearend it weighed 3100#.
Also the Rad was the SVO 3 core one they sold back in the mid 90s and it would not keep it cool. I switch to an aluminum one from AFCo and solved that problem right there, with no other changes.
Your right. All the guys like the Mustang better for it's looks.Some of them like the coup because it's it's about 40 or 50 lbs lighter and they say it's a little more ridged. Put in a full cage and frame connectors and I don't see a advantage in the clam that the coups more ridged. I do believe the longer wheel base is a advantage over the shorter wheel base and a bit easier to drive I saw Bob Glidden run the Fairmont at the Detroit Dragway back in the day.Remember the Tijuana taxi.Ugly but effective. Got a little time to work on my car today. I had a friend who's pretty good with carbs and most every other thing to do with cars give me a hand today. First he found that my coil was taking a crap on me. He adjusted the carb and had it running pretty good at idle. But it would idle good for a few moments and then start to act as if you it were losing fuel pressure and would shut off.We installed a new coil and it would idle and keep idling . We set the four idle screws like you said and then worked on the timing.We set the timing by increasing the rpms to 4k. We set the timing at 38 degrees. We did install two light springs. The engine starts up real easy and idles good.I test drove it and the hesitation is pretty much gone.I'm sure it can be tuned a bit better but it's not bad the way it is. I plan to leave it the way it is for now, I'm tired of working on it and would like just get in it and drive for awhile.Roger
Once you're drove it a bit, put a vacuum gage and check vac at idle. Then play with the idle screws 1/4 turn only one at a time. If you do one at a time you'll be able to verify that each one is working right.
If a remember right your carb as the screw in airbleeds. This is where the idle circuit gets it's air from and they play a big part. Sometimes big fancy carbs are best left to the people who really need them. I use a Holley 1850 Vac sec, elec choke, 600 on my 331 stroker in my 66 Stang. Simple but works all the time.
I've played with Holleys for 45 years and will never know it all.
My 460 uses a 850 DP, 50ccs pumps, milled airhorn, large float valves, no PV in the sec, but jets 9 numbers bigger, fuel etx tubes in the pri, etc, etc, etc. Pretty basic, but even the larger float needle valves make a difference. And by the way, I did the airhorn cutting myself and used JB Weld glue around the spray nozzles to smooth the air flow out.
This is the work station.
Gapp and Roush ran the TJ Taxi. Used 2, 2dr Mavs and welded them together. Pissed NHRA off something bad. wheelbase length meant less weight. I started going to Pro drag racing back in 74. Always was impressed with Glidden. Watched him work on his car, wipe his hands then talk to the crowd and sign autographs.