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Discussion Starter #1
I really don't plan on racing my car but just out of curiosity I'd like a general idea of my redline, just to be safe. (I just finished putting it in last weekend)

My combo: 302 .030 over. Scat I beam 4130 rods with ARP 3/8 Waveloc rod bolts. Stock crank turned 10/10. Balanced rotating assembly. SpeedPro hyper pistons and chrome moly rings. MAC longtube headers, not cats.

My cam is a B303 which should keep making power up to 6500 or better. I wouldn't expect a stock 302 to safely go that high very often but I'm assuming my combo should handle it occasionally.
 

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redline? Arp rodbolts? Steel rods? I'd say around 9000 rpm! Just kidding, it should hold up fine, but the cam and heads will hold you back probably around max of 6500-7000, but that's just a guess. Run it until it starts to run out of power...no need to rev any further than that if it's not making power. Dont be afraid of a 302--they're pretty darn tough.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I am planning on upgrading my heads(currently ported D0OE 351W with studs, guide plates and crane roller rockers) to World Product Windsor Jrs. when I can afford them. I guess then it will be my cam holding me back.
 

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Well, the best way to figure out your redline is to figure out when your power drops off. I wouldn't go higher than 5500 becasue you havent modified your oiling system, specifically a bigger pan. You don't want to run the pan dry, for sure. But with the stock heads you have no reason to rev it higher than 5500, IMHO.
 

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One of my concerns would be where the valve springs take a dump...

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My pan is stock but I have a high volume oil pump and a windage tray. I also have highly modified 351W heads with Compitition Cams dual valve springs.

But the point about running the pan dry is a good one.
 

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Hook up that good old reliable 'assometer' and take the car for a test drive.
Doesn't matter what the dyno says, doesn't matter what everyone says. What matters is when you've got it to the wood, when the motor actually starts to nose over. (i.e. starts to NOT make power anymore).
Then you can start to figure out why it stops pulling at whatever rpm it does. (i.e. heads/cam/carb/exhaust, etc. etc.). My .002 (which sometimes doesn't add up to chit).......
 

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if your DOOE 351w heads are highly modified (ie a good port/polish job) then i dont think youll have much benefit going to world windsor jr heads to justify the cost, unless you get a good set of used heads at a REALLY good deal. from the dyno test ive seen in mags, the world products line of heads really suck unless they have had work done on them like with project 11.99. in hot rods budget 351w buildup, the GT40p heads embarrased the world products heads.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dave65FB on 4/9/02 1:56am ]</font>
 

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Well Tateg, you should be careful, really careful where you redline it, now reading that you have a high volume oil pump. So now the engine will pump more oil, emptying the pan faster than a stock pan would. Usually your valve springs will limit your RPMs, then your balls. Just keep in mind the oiling system okay?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've always heard that at high RPMs(whatever they turn out to be) a high volume pump could run the pan dry and that's a question I asked when I bought the oil pump at PAW. They told me it wasn't a real worry but I'll be careful with it.

I noticed in reading the article about the 400HP 302 used in Project 11.99 that they did the same thing I did; they used a stock pan with a high volume oil pump. They plan on racing this beast so I think they *might* have a concern there.

Comments anyone?
 

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I have a high volume oil pump and the stock pan on my stang and its held up ok through many a qr mile pass.I redline at 6000.I have a friend with 289 rods with arp bolts in a 302 and he turned it to 7000 or 8000 grand on nitrous every weekend.He had a deep pan on it though.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: frdnut on 4/10/02 12:18am ]</font>
 

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My 302 has stock heads and bottom end with a high volume pump. A Comp cam using .456 lift and new comp lifters, springs and retainers. Once I got a better electronic firebox I'm able to do 6000 pretty regularly but I try to keep it around 5500 since there isn't any more power up there without some additional mods to the heads, etc. I've just beat the crap out of the 302/C4 and have never had a problem. I keep the oil and filter changed regularly and try to keep the tires planted.
 

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The maximum "safe"/dyrable RPM of an engine is usually calculated by piston speed in feet/minute. The speed in feet per minute is 2x stroke in inches x RPM divided by 12. The accepted stock type speed is 2500 feet per minute. Things such as rod strength, piston strength, rod bolts and so on help with increasing RPM until something breaks. To be safe if an engine is in good health, shift it @ 6,000. Shorter stroke engines can take more. Or just wind it til it makes no more power or breaks(wich ever comes first). Then after the rebuild / replacement, shift sooner!
 
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