Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am currently in the midst of my 64 galaxie convertible 460 swap.. i am having a c6 trans being built by my local trans shop and i am wondering what stall torque converter i should go with. i should have added that i am bolting this trans to a built 460 making about 500hp.. i have not picked out a rear end for this project yet. so i will be asking on here what would a good gear ratio to go with for this combination.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,268 Posts
On a daily driver street car I wouldn’t go over 2600 stall.
Usually 22-2400 is ok on the street.
Much higher and it becomes a pig to drive at part throttle, which is 95 percent of the time on the street.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Sound device. "I" would ask for a converted C4 (11") rather than a modified 12" C6 converter. The smaller dia gives stall without a loss of efficiency like a modified 12". DO NOT use a 10" , it is too small.













0



















0
 

·
Registered
1966 Galaxie
Joined
·
323 Posts
Has the engine been on a dyno?
About 500hp? Is it 480 or 520? (Could make a huge difference)
What does the torque look like and at what rpm?
Is the c6 staying stock?
What rear gear are you thinking about?
I would want real data and make a solid choice, before guessing and having regrets later on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,268 Posts
Has the engine been on a dyno?
About 500hp? Is it 480 or 520? (Could make a huge difference)
What does the torque look like and at what rpm?
Is the c6 staying stock?
What rear gear are you thinking about?
I would want real data and make a solid choice, before guessing and having regrets later on.
On a daily driver street car, it's just not that critical.
A little higher stall than stock as I suggested, will work just fine with "almost any" STREET engine, and gear combo.

Now if we are talking competitive drag racing, that is a whole 'nother ball game.
The torque converter guys (at least the ones I deal with) will want a **** TON of info on the car/engine combo.
My guys want cam spec, head flow specs, Carb size, supercharged or not, cubic inches, dyno results, gear ratio, tire size (slicks?) car weight, trans brake or not, etc, etc, etc...

You would not believe the detailed form they want filled out, to get your combo "just right" so you can actually BE competitive.

On a street car, all that stuff just don't matter. UNLESS you are running some stupid huge lumpy cam,
BUT then the thing is gonna be a pig to drive anyway, on the street at part throttle where 95 percent of your cruising is.

Stall really only comes into play at WOT and launch.
How often do you drive ON THE STREET, with the throttle nailed to the floor?
Get speeding/stunting tickets much?
 

·
Registered
1966 Galaxie
Joined
·
323 Posts
Feel free to throw out all the "suggestions" you want.
I was under the assumption that I was also allowed to voice my opinion.
I would want some data.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,268 Posts
Sure data is good.
My suggestions are based on having 45 years experience building transmissions and dealing with wannabe hot rodders that think they need a 5000 stall converter in their “500 HP” street car.
I’ve had guys insist they want a 3500 to 4000 stall and I have tried to talk them out of it.
But they insist and think they know better.
Inevitably they come back in a month with their head hanging down and sheepishly ask me to put in a lower stall.
“Usually” around 22 to 2400 is about right on the street, no matter the engine, gears, etc.

Same with full manual valve bodies on the street.
Guys insist they “wanna shift it all the time” and come back in a month and ask me to make it automatic shift again.

Amateurs, ya gotta love ‘em.;)

If a guy has a “Saturday Night Special” “street car” with a blower, nitrous, slicks and tubs, ladder bars etc that he does NOT daily drive then ya, go for the huge stall etc.
 

·
Registered
1966 Galaxie
Joined
·
323 Posts
And thats my point, he doesnt want to do it twice.
Your suggestions are on cumulative real life data, and that is great, its some of the best data available, and we are losing it at a rapid pace.

But, Instead of just telling someone that it should be good, I try and learn at the same time and make the car world a better place and further the car owners knowledge also.

Most guys want a "hotrod", the simple definition is they want to feel it, in the seat, from stop light to stop light.
No body I know or hang out with wants to do 130 on the street or raise the front tires at a stop sign, they think they do until it scares the beejesus out of them.

So how many guys that said they had 500hp, when it was really about 300?
I have heard it all my life, "Man i got headers, 4 barrel, and a racin cam, probably about 500hp.

If he sticks a 2500 stall conv in a stock c6 with 300-500hp, and goes with a modest 3.25-3.50 rear gear, he will probably be happy and think its all great,

But what if he dialed it in, with the torque, rpm, shift points, and chose the right combination for REAL engine out put, trans gearing including losses, etc., and the best rear gear for the type of driving he is going to be doing and he can put it all down on the street.
His smile would only get bigger, when he says whoa! And it feels like he has a real 500hp in a street convertible.

To me , I just dont like "probably" and "think so".
To each his own.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Torque converter "stall" varies by TORQUE as well as size and degree/type of alterations, A 500ish hp engine could have 600 ft lbs ( big block stroker) or 360 ( my small block 331) and need two entirely different converters! There are also different ways of raising a converter's stall. A "C" , "J" , or leading edge cut on the stator . A positive , neutral , or negative , fin angle change on the turbine . Pump to turbine clearance and others all make a difference in performance and "stall speed". Some will also "flash" higher than they do if "hard stalled" against a trans brake or car brakes. A torque converter is a important factor in vehicle performance and careful consideration should be given before the purchase. In some cases it is beneficial to "try something" first and relate changes or needs based on that to a vendor. On those with 2,500 pr more I strongly recommend an external trans cooler because the increased slippage creates higher fluid temps.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
60 Posts
Adding the wide ratio gear planetary set in a C6 also makes a difference that really works good with a stock converter & 3.25/3.50 gears. I had that set up in my 68 F 100 until I changed everything to a 2nd generation Coyote/4r70w using a US Shift controller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
+1 I have two wide ratio conversions. One in my 78 F350 race car hauler and it has a gear vendor behind it. I just built a full needle bearing one for my '67 Ranchero that will have a 545ci 460 soon.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,486 Posts
Need way more details than you have given to determine the correct converter.

All your details given to a good reputable converter builder will get you good results
The trouble is too many guys buy off the shelf converters that just don't work right for a given combination.

Don't be scared of stall speed . If a converter is built right no matter what it's rated at , it will drive lamost normal with minimal slip at light loads . Then when you stand on it , will flash up where it needs to be
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I am currently in the midst of my 64 galaxie convertible 460 swap.. i am having a c6 trans being built by my local trans shop and i am wondering what stall torque converter i should go with. i should have added that i am bolting this trans to a built 460 making about 500hp.. i have not picked out a rear end for this project yet. so i will be asking on here what would a good gear ratio to go with for this combination.
Need a lot more info. Like Compression ratio & cam duration. I have a built 429 with a comp cam 305 duration cam, 11.5 compression, dual 390 holley double pumpers, Engine red lines at 6800 rpm. I have a C6 with a 3500 rpm stall and 4:10 gears and this is driven on the street and drives nicely, It will flash to 3500 when you get on it. Good brand and quality stall is the key for drivability.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Why go with a C6 when there's an AOD available for the 460 unlike 390's where we have to make do, The AOD will let you run a low rear gear for launch and the OD for cruisin' .
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top