[mao66]

I am looking at a '90 mustang with a 5 litre and a 5 speed. What do I need to look at to make sure I am not buying a POS. How many miles are the factory flywheels good for before they need to resurfaced or replaced. Does the K member have bushings or are they direct bolt in? Does the clutch supposed to be soft, medium, or hard? Do these year of mustangs have traction lock rears? The mans ad in the paper says $5100 or trade. I have looked on Ebay and some the mustangs around the same year are more or less around the same price. Any heplful tips will be really appreciated.

 

[Ronbuell]

If he's asking that much for it, it must have average or less miles for the age and be in good condition. I bought a '91 2 years ago for a little more than that. Shifted good, motor was tight, and it stopped straight, no body work needed. Still has the same sparkplugs as when I bought it.

If the clutch doesn't slip when you shift from 1st up to 3rd (skip 2nd) at a slow speed (about 15), its probably OK. K member don't know, never done one. Pedal should be moderately stiff. What you do want to check for is the plastic part under the dash where the cable plugs in. That part of the clutch is weak and prone to breaking under hard use. The 5.0s have 8.8" rear with TracLoc. They will wear over time and see the left side give up on traction. For that price, everything should work, windows, locks, wipers, radio, and all be there, no body work. Put it on the lift and look under the car. Get the vin and put it into the free carfax checker.
http://www.autocheck.com/consumers/gatewayAction.do?_201=1FABP45E2KF122722&_412=35802&&_209=2&_414=504
Tires should be good, check tie rods and make sure no play at the ends or at the rack. Mufflers your choice as almost everyone changes them but check for leaks. Brakes, should be firm, no spongy pedal. Check fluid levels before you crank the car, and when I do that, I usually take a general notice of if its clean under the hood, oil in any bad places like on top of the manifold, on the headers, down the back of the motor etc. then look for blue smoke when it starts up. Blue smoke means $$ in rebuild, black smoke means a tune up or emmissions stuff. It should start, run and idle right off without trouble. Some mods can add value like a short shifter, headers, subframe connectors. Detractors would be ripped out rear subframes where the axle arms bolt in (that's why I'd put it on the rack), body work, broken glass, needs top on a Vert., wheels been curbed (usually sign of female driver). That'll give you plenty to go run with. L8tr, Ron

 

[mao66]

Thanks Mr. Ron, I talked to the man the other day and he said he hadn't done anything to the car so it is supposed to be stock. The only thing he said was the speedo quit working at around 100 thou. so the car can have any number of miles on it. I guess I can carfax it and go from there. I personally like AOD's some I'm shaky on the 5 speed stuff. Like I said before thanks for all the information.

 

[87stang]

Standard maintenance/replacement parts for these cars a re easy to find and reasonably affordable. So, I'd worry about the big stuff.

How's the paint & body...has it been wrecked? Do all of the body panels line up (doors, hatch/trunk, hood)?

How's the interior? The driver's seat can tell a lot about the actual mileage of the car if the seat and carpet are worn out out.

Does everything under hood appear to be original and nothing missing? Does everything else besides the speedometer work (locks, windows, wipers, washers, A/C, heat, gas door, hatch release, stereo)?

As far as the transmission goes, does it shift easily and is it easy to put into gear from a stop (both 1st and reverse)? If you put under load (hard acceleration) does it whine?

Tire tread and strange braking? Inspect the rear tires closely for excessive wear. Do the brakes make any strange noises or pull to one side when applied?