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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are chasing a wheel hop problem in my brother's 67 fastback..Car has a 300ish hp 302 and T-5trans...Last year he grenaded the 8 inch rear end with what looked like some mild traction hop at the strip..He is running the shelby style weld on traction bars and engine and trans have new mounts...Shocks are nothing special but seem to be in good working order..Car drives fine on the street with no suspicious slop in the driveline....Any thoughts on what could be causing this?
 

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Kind of wide open, but I would first look at the existing suspension for problems-such as bad bushings or weak, flimsy leaf springs. Adjustable rear shocks will make a difference as you can normally tune the hop out with a stiffer setting.
 

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I ran Shelby under-riders for several years until I sheared the front bolt allowing the bar to drop at the front. Luckily the bar just slid along the pavement, scary to think what would have happened if it got caught on a manhole cover or something.

Under normal heavy acceleration I found the under-riders to work well, but under extreme acceleration with sticky tires mine would still cause wheel hop especially on the 1-2 shift.

After breaking the under-riders, I reinstalled my tried and true Lakewood slapper bars and no more wheel hop.

I'm now using Caltracs and they provide better traction and no wheel hop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ran Shelby under-riders for several years until I sheared the front bolt allowing the bar to drop at the front. Luckily the bar just slid along the pavement, scary to think what would have happened if it got caught on a manhole cover or something.

Under normal heavy acceleration I found the under-riders to work well, but under extreme acceleration with sticky tires mine would still cause wheel hop especially on the 1-2 shift.

After breaking the under-riders, I reinstalled my tried and true Lakewood slapper bars and no more wheel hop.

I'm now using Caltracs and they provide better traction and no wheel hop.
Wow!...I was never a fan of that style of bar simply because you had to weld the front bracket on....My brother is experiencing exactly the symptoms you describe...They seem to work ok on the street but as soon as we bolt on some sticky tires at the track the wheel hop begins.
 

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Yep, flex is your enemy. Anything that can give, squish or flex has to be controlled. You may want to try keeping the under-rides with new poly bushings, clamp the springs, and start thinking about subframe connectors. Any one or combination of those changes will make a difference, and the hop may be history. Otherwise, go have fun in the shop, or buy your way out.
:tup:
David

PS: tire pressure too low can be a contributing factor, along with excessive suspension reaction - though the latter is not likely in his case.
 

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My first guess would be the leaf springs are trying to wrap up. I'm running under rider's with no wheel hop issues but I have also done all the rest of what everybody has said as well as vert torque boxes, TCP's shock tower bracing kit, 90/10 front drag shocks.

I've had 2 different rear end problems. Wheel hop was caused by my old leaf springs which were wore out. I replaced them with mid-eye's.

The other problem I had was what I call jackrabbiting for lack of a better word. The car would load coming off the line then unload and actually felt like it was bouncing. That is when I ditched my old slapper bars and put the Shelby under ride bars on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well the general concesus is that the shelby bars just aren't that great for drag racing...I will try to talk my brother into trying something else..In the mean time we can try a few other tricks like clamping the leafs and maybe some new rear shocks......Rcode I think the thing you are talking about is called a pinion snubber...I believe the 9 inch he is swapping in already has one of those in place although I am not sure if it will work on the mustang chassis...Thanks for the offer though.
 
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