Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
576 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm adjusting the valve lash on my stock cylinder head equipped 289 and it seems that I've run out of adjustment on at least one valve. With the valve completely closed, I've taken the slack out ( pushrod barely turns freely ) and tightened the adjusting nut another 3/4 of a turn. On at least one valve it seems that I've bottomed out the adjustment. What does this indicate and what can be done? Is there a washer set that could be purchased that would give me some more adjustment? Any direction is appreciated!:bow:
Thanx, Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,010 Posts
Sounds like you may have pull the pressed in stud. If not maybe wrong length push rod or you are collapsing the lifter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,010 Posts
You beat me to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Assuming it was a running engine, three things could do that

1 - You ate a cam or lifter
2 - You are pulling a stud out out of the head (run a straight edge across the tops of the studs, you'll see immediately)
3 - You have a collapsed lifter (in my experience, very unlikely)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
576 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yes, this was a running engine and it ran quite nicely until I spun the gear off of the distributor shaft. I pulled the valve cover to make sure I had both valves on #1 closed instead and decided to adjust the valve lash before I re-installed the distributor. The engine hadn't been run in about 6 weeks prior.
I didn't run a straight edge along the tops of the rocker studs but I didn't see the stud moving and by eyeballing it, they looked consistent. The drive gear on the cam is perfect. I put it all together and everything seems cool. It does seem a bit noisier than before but no issues. It revs fine with no stumble. I'll do some fine tuning over the weekend and see where we end up. Thanx for all the direction. It is appreciated! Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,506 Posts
Unplug the coil and crank the engine with the valve cover off and see how much (or little) the valve spring moves compared to the other ones. If it doesn't compress very much, you probably wiped a cam lobe.

I have this exact same problem on my 351w and I discovered the #1 intake valve was barely moving when cranking.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,853 Posts
Dang here I go again. :( Sorry DanH Sorry Kultulz but I gotta do it. Striketh me down for attempting what I must but do it mercifully.

1: Set Cylinder to TDC Compression.

2: Loosen rockers until you have NO contact with the pushrod.

3: Slowly tighten Rocker locking nut until you initiate Contact with pushrod!~ {this is the point where you CAN SPIN FREELY the pushrod, but there is no Up and Down slack in the rod}....!!!!

4: Turn nut 3/4 to 2/3 rds of a turn from that point.

Now you are GOLDEN barring a flat lobe on the cam. This means that the lifter is adjusted PROPERLY. :D :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts
Dang here I go again. :( Sorry DanH Sorry Kultulz but I gotta do it. Striketh me down for attempting what I must but do it mercifully.


3: Slowly tighten Rocker locking nut until you initiate Contact with pushrod!~ {this is the point where you CAN SPIN FREELY the pushrod, but there is no Up and Down slack in the rod}....!!!!

4: Turn nut 3/4 to 2/3 rds of a turn from that point.
...mmmm....
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
6,355 Posts
FE , best be sitting for this ......

you did good . the TDC is for stock or small cams only
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
576 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Dang here I go again. :( Sorry DanH Sorry Kultulz but I gotta do it. Striketh me down for attempting what I must but do it mercifully.

1: Set Cylinder to TDC Compression.

2: Loosen rockers until you have NO contact with the pushrod.

3: Slowly tighten Rocker locking nut until you initiate Contact with pushrod!~ {this is the point where you CAN SPIN FREELY the pushrod, but there is no Up and Down slack in the rod}....!!!!

4: Turn nut 3/4 to 2/3 rds of a turn from that point.

Now you are GOLDEN barring a flat lobe on the cam. This means that the lifter is adjusted PROPERLY. :D :D
Yup. That's the way I done it. Since it hadn't run in awhile, could the lifter be collapsed just from sitting and now that it has been run, could it pump back up?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
Yup. That's the way I done it. Since it hadn't run in awhile, could the lifter be collapsed just from sitting and now that it has been run, could it pump back up?
After re-reading your post I dont think its a collapsed lifter, IF you adjusted all of them the same.

Its either the stud pulling out of head (no no amount of 'spacing' will fix this) and without a straight edge you cant really tell by eyeballing it if installed. as you are only taking in 100ths of an inch usually.


Or the cam is going flat. (cam replacement time with new lifters)

You never said WHY you were running an adjustment. (noisy on top end, mechanical cam{doubt that sense no lash is involved} or just thought it 'needed' it) Hydraulic flat tappet cams NORMALLY dont just "go out of adjustment" without other factors invovled. IE stud pulling, cam wear(going flat) rocker nuts worn out etc...

MO of course..... ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,010 Posts
We'll never know.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
576 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
We'll never know.
Know what? Why I was doing an adjustment? In my original post, I explain that I had the valve cover off to make sure both valves at #1 were closed while doing my distributor installation. I thought that since I'm there, I should check the lash.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,853 Posts
There IS NO LASH on a Hydraulic lifter.

Your lifter may pump back up but it really needs some lash to do it if it will do it at all.

Start and loosen the collapsed lifter until it really rattles, but the rocker stays in place and see if a few seconds of run time will allow it to pump up, then slowly tighten the rocker nut until the noise stops, this should happen rather soon if the lifter did fill back up, and go 1/4 turn past where the lifter stopped making noise. That should be sufficient.

If the noise goes away, great, it is possible that after the engine shuts off, and get's restarted that the noise comes back for a few seconds, that's normal with a weak lifter, and at that point you should really consider new ones.

Other than that you're done. go drive and play and have fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts
Hope they are not positive stop type arms... :frown:

This SBC method of finding correct lash just fascinates me at times...

I am especially enthralled at how one calibrates ones finger strength to properly rotate a push-rod.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,853 Posts
Hope they are not positive stop type arms... :frown:

This SBC method of finding correct lash just fascinates me at times...

I am especially enthralled at how one calibrates ones finger strength to properly rotate a push-rod.

You make a valid point. But on a Chevy I start car, back off until I get noise then go 1/4 more after noise shuts off, and I am done with it forever.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts
You make a valid point. But on a Chevy I start car, back off until I get noise then go 1/4 more after noise shuts off, and I am done with it forever.....
And that is the correct method for a stock SBC engine. Their engineers made that allowance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
And that is the correct method for a stock SBC engine. Their engineers made that allowance.

IF the stud is NOT pulling out of the head, and IF the hydraulic lifter is in fact weak or collapsing AND (ooohhhh wait a minute this is Kult I am quoting) lemmie start over...

If the stud is not pulling out of the head, and ifthe hydraulic lifter is in fact weak or collapsing /failing and you dont have the funds or time for a repair/tear down how would you make an allowance for the said problem?

The hydraulic lifter has no clue its in a Ford motor, and the procedure is General Motors based, what difference does it make on the way the patch repair is done.

If it is indeed a positive stop stud/arm he is basically phukked...

It does no harm to try and quiet down a lifter by this method, until deeper and more thorough investigation can be done.

Is it 'correct' to put dino oil in a vehicle thats been running on synthetic? No but will it work until you can correct/change the oil to use the proper amount of the proper oil.

besides Kult my fingers are calibrated for the setting you mention, its called spin, no spin...
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top