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Okay this is where im at, i put a new cam/carb/intake/pertronix on my 289. I was able to break the cam in fine, ran it at 2500rpm for about 20 mins. The car never idled below 2500 rpm. The carb was bought used on ebay, so I swaped it with a known working 650dp. Now I cant get the car started, it just cranks and cranks, ocastionaly ill get a little sputter out of it but thats it. The cam breakin went fine the only gotcha is i had a big backfire trought the muffler after i shut the car off after break in. What could be wrong, what can I check, i know i have spark (coil and plug) and have 7lbs fuel pressure.
 

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After checking for it being flooded.....

Sound like the timing is off, maybe too retarded causing to much unburn gas in the exhaust and that caused the back fire.

Were you able to put a timing light on it after the break in before you shut it off?
 

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I sometimes find it amazing how many people will break-in a fresh engine they just dumped a couple grand into without a $20 timing light they could probably borrow from a friend.

Sorry don't mean to be down on ya, but yeah I'd guess your timing is probably retarded to far and that's why it won't start. Play with the timing until you can get it to start and set the timing immediately afterwards.
 

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Sounds like a fuel issue... if its turning over and cranking but not flashing... check to make sure you are getting fuel.... then check all your plugs to make sure they are not fouled.
 

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Was it hard to start the first time? When I went to break in my cam, it took awhile to start and when I got it to start it went and ran at 2000+RPM but that is because the timing was advancing, I guess, when it was running at that rpm. It probably won't hurt to turn the distributor a little to advance it to see if it will start. That is what I did and then it started fine and could put the timing light on it. It sounds like what mine did when mine was too retarded. I hand rotated the car and set the distributor at TDC, or mabey it was alittle more retarded than that.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: jason717 on 1/13/05 10:45pm ]</font>
 

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Did you check for spark at the plugs? Also try checking your firing order/Distributor rotation - you may have spun the dizzy drive gear on the shaft and are now firing cylinder 2 when cylinder 6 is supposed to get the spark - Not likely, but worth checking out if you've run out of options.
 

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On 2005-01-13 09:21, strtcar wrote:
i have a timing light never had a chance to put it on there, the carb would not idle below 2500 rpm so what would be the point of timing it then?
The point is, you should know your dizzys TOTAL timing no matter what dizzy your using, so with that info you can rev the engine to 3000 "all the advance will/should be in" and use the light to set the TOTAL timing. And that should get you were you want to be.....
 

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Either that, or what I've always been told to do during cam break-in is just set the timing at 20 degrees when it's running 2000-2500rpm. That should get you within a couple degrees unless your advance curve is way off to begin with.
 

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In my own experience, is the pertronix. These guys might swing a milimeter a not send the signal to the sparkplug. So try to see if you have a spark when you turn the engine. If not, it is the pertronix that needs calibration. Hope you solve your problem soon, when it drags on for too long, it gets kind of depressing.
 

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Did you replace the timing chain when you did the swap. Sounds to me like the timing chain jumped a few teeth.

Also, try putting the #1 piston at TDC and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire. If you have fuel and spark at the plugs it should start. If not then it sounds like a timing issue.

Aaron.
 

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You're getting a lot of good advice here, but I'd sure make sure to rule out initial timing first. Since you never really checked it, it sure seems likely that its off. First thing I would do is just take a minute or two to set the timing cold to something sloppy like around 10 or 12* initial, and then start eliminating other things once you're sure your initial is in a reasonable range.
 

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Remove your number 1 spark plug, then, using a socket on the dampner nut, rotate the crank until you bring the number one piston to the top (feeling for the rush of air out of the spark plug hole so you know it's the compression stroke and not 180 out).

Then, drop your dizzy in so that the rotor is right under the position for the #1 cylinder (ie, the tip of the rotor is under the spot on the cap where the #1 plug wire would be if the cap were on).

Eye your timing marks - you should be right at or around 0*. From there, just back up or move forward with the crank until you're at whatever initial advance you want on the marker.

I'd shoot for about 10*, because your pretty sure it'll at least start there if you have an initial timing problem, and you can tinker with the curve later.
 

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Strtcar - got your PM. I think I wrote that kind of confusing. You should bring it to approaching TDC (rush of air, check timing marks) and then stop where ever you want to be for advance, like around 10 I'd say, then drop the dizzy in so it aligns with the #1 wire on the cap. It'll get you pretty close, but obviously not perfect, which is why I go with a middle of the road advance so you can err on either side and still get it to start.
 

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if you say you've got spark,put your timing light on number one lead and crank the engine as it is,you'll soon see how far out your timing is,make sure all marks are easy to see,and adjust from there,sounds to me like its to advanced,would pay to check your plugs as well.good luck
 
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