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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have two small block bell housings for my boys 351w/4 speed build. One is aluminum and one is a cast steel. I really dont know a lot except the steel one is heavy. Dont know what year they are or what they were originally out of, I do know they were both in front of toploaders. Which one would you use and why? Whats the other one worth to resell?
 

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I have two small block bell housings for my boys 351w/4 speed build. One is aluminum and one is a cast steel. I really dont know a lot except the steel one is heavy. Dont know what year they are or what they were originally out of, I do know they were both in front of toploaders. Which one would you use and why? Whats the other one worth to resell?
I had a steel and aluminum bellhousing too. I ended up going with a Lakewood scatter shield. I sold the steel one for 50$ + shipping and got 100$ + shipping for the aluminum one. The aluminum one had the plate and fork with it.

Some bellhousings are for 157 tooth flywheel and others take 164 tooth flywheel. So see what flywheel you have first and then see if either of your bell housings are correct.

Here is a link that may help you
Bellhousings

Lou
 

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+1. Most 351W apps with Toploaders used the larger clutches and 164T flywheel. Basically - 157T was light duty 302 and smaller, and 164T was HD 351W and larger. You can still use a 157T, but check your clutch choices for how you're using it, as you'll be limited to 10.5" max disc.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Both Bell housings are for a 164 tooth flywheel. We have a billit steel flywheel drilled for both 10.5" amd 11" clutches. We have a NOS 10.5" zoom racing clutch from back in the day that Zoom made really good stuff. I really dont want to go to the exspense or a scattersheild for this car, I have that on one of my other cars already.
I guess I wondered if the steel is any safer than the aluminum, I would like the weight savings of aluminum but its a heavy car so it probally wont be a huge deal.
 

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I guess I wondered if the steel is any safer than the aluminum, I would like the weight savings of aluminum but its a heavy car so it probally wont be a huge deal.
I'm sure both are cast, so from that perspective, the steel one will be safer (more likely to absorb shrapnel vs. just shatter). Iron though is a different story, and whether its ductile or grey. But in the end, the difference is marginal to even worry about between the two. If safety is the concern, you need a SFI spec one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm sure both are cast, so from that perspective, the steel one will be safer (more likely to absorb shrapnel vs. just shatter). Iron though is a different story, and whether its ductile or grey. But in the end, the difference is marginal to even worry about between the two. If safety is the concern, you need a SFI spec one.

I will probally just install the aluminum one, I think odds are pretty low that it will ever need a SFI spec one and a steel billet flywheel only improves that. Thanks
 

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back when I first did my T/L conversion on my stang, I had the same choice. I went for alum one just cuz it was lighter, was going to be bad enough wrestling with a 90lb trans laying flat of me back in the dirt, without having to wrestle with the weight of the iron/steel B-H.... If you arent doing 5000 rpm launches a LOT you will be fine, cause i've used junk/used pieces parts along the way and havent had any problems with clutch/pp/flywheel explosions, and I HAVE abused them with a few :rolleyes: hard launches and abuse.... If its gonna see lots of track time, yes the SFI stuff is the only insurance policy you would want to use..... MHO
 
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