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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have a 73 460 PI motor and am planning on putting a toploader behind it. Which bellhousing do I need, truck or car specific bell? Which flywheel and starter combo? I have read some conflicting reports on using a 390 flywheel on some truck forums. I will be using a hydraulic throwout set-up. Just wanting some input, knowledge from you guys. Thanks Dwayne
 

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Ok, I have a 73 460 PI motor and am planning on putting a toploader behind it. Which bellhousing do I need, truck or car specific bell? Which flywheel and starter combo? I have read some conflicting reports on using a 390 flywheel on some truck forums. I will be using a hydraulic throwout set-up. Just wanting some input, knowledge from you guys. Thanks Dwayne
Not sure on the stock ones, I am using a QuickTime on mine, go to 460.COM, lots of 460 help on there. I am guessing with the Toploader you will need a car bell. Nothing on a 390 will work on the 385 blocks, the 460 is compatible with the 400 though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure on the stock ones, I am using a QuickTime on mine, go to 460.COM, lots of 460 help on there. I am guessing with the Toploader you will need a car bell. Nothing on a 390 will work on the 385 blocks, the 460 is compatible with the 400 though.
Thanks Gydyup.
 

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2x on the 460.com and 400 bellhousing. The spin off forum after 460.com got bought out is 429-460.com...less advertising and runs faster. Just a thought, but a PI 460 is going put out some fairly good torque even as a stock spec engine. The only toploaders to match the torque requirements are the CJ (big in/big out (bibo)). Now don't go all budget on me. If you are on a budget, and who isn't, you can't afford to experiment and be wrong. If you want cheap, go C6! When I went shopping, a bibo was over $800 and worn and/or broken. Slap another $1500+ in repairs and upgrades plus a decent shifter and the budget is blown. For about the same money, I went with a TKO600. New, heavier torque ratings, and overdrive to boot. I shopped around and found a shelf worn Lakewood. Now the clutch...I went overkill...McLeod Street Twin with hydraulic throwout bearing. Expensive but works great! I can push in a 1000HP rated clutch pedal with my hand!!! If you go the TKO600 route, get the Ford one and use a spacer plate.
 

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Gassman, nice work, great info. Budgets being the big one. I plan on running the big I/P O/P shaft toploaders.

Cleverz -I wouldnt put a stock bell on anything you plan on pulling gears and making HP. You can get Lakewoods cheap anywhere. If your putting it in a 60s Mustang or Cougar, may look at the Quicktime. The Lakewoods suck up a lot of real estate between the frame rails, headers etc. I could barely get the Hooker headers on my Coupe when I had the Lakewood bell on the small block, PITA.

One good piece of advice I have been getting is to ensure you run the wide ratio gearset with the BB upgrades. Dennis has been down that road, I am not there yet.

Budgets being budgets, if I had my way, my choices would be Lenco STS 5spd, followed by a Jericho DR4 road race.

Another choice, depending on what your doing with the car would be the Richmond 4+1, bolts right up, you can find em on Race Junk pretty reasonable. I have heard they dont shift as well for racing but?

Would love to see pics of your hyd clutch set up, I am leaning towards hydro, but may try the cable first.

What is your project.
 

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390 flywheel will fit the 460, i have done it. any stock 429 351m 400 bell will fit with a toploader but would feel safer with a blowsheild.
 

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The Lakewoods can take up some real estate and is a common problem with headers and bell housing wanting the same space. I've had the issue on both FEs and 385s. Quicktime has resolved these issues and has a application for TKO500 and 600s without adopters. When I bought the TKO600, the Tremec store gave me the option to change to the shorter input shaft or use a spacer plate between the bell housing and the transmission. Not knowing any better, I opted for the shorter input shaft. When I shopped for hydraulic throw out bearings, there was NOT enough room for the easy, less expensive 'one size fits all' throw out bearing. I bought McLeod's custom sized throw out which was more money and required mock up and return to McLeod for custom fitting. If I had used the spacer, it would have been much cheaper, a universal hydraulic throw out bearing would have worked, quicker, and the shifter would have been another 1" to the rear of the car (would have helped in my car).
Mounting the master cylinder was a matter of reading the instructions and several measurements. I used the original pedal and drilled a hole at the 6:1 ratio length. I made a push rod from a hiems joint and a threaded rod nut for minor adjustments. This system is good for 1000HP and I can push it down with my hand. Great for street!!! The only picture I could find is of the MC and it is behind the power steering lines. If you want, I can assemble outside of the car for better pictures.
 

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Awesome looking build, what car is it?
Coulndt tell if I was looking at the brake MC or clutch MC, only saw one.

How is the TOB fork, push or pull?
 

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Had it been a snake, it would have bit me.

Sweeeet ride, love it.
 

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Missed the third question...type of throw out bearing. No fork! Hydraulic throw out bearing. Works like a brake caliper with a hole in the piston. No linkage...no binding...no noise...no adjusting...NO pedal effort.
 
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