Which hedders to use on AFR 185's?
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1,950 Posts
More info.
The 205's have a 3" wide bolt pattern. What do the 185's have?
If it's 3" then depending on the chassis all sorts of options are available.
The 205's have a 3" wide bolt pattern. What do the 185's have?
If it's 3" then depending on the chassis all sorts of options are available.
Most aftermarket heads, and even many ported stockers have rather large exhaust outlets. The headers used with these usually need ground out to match the heads. Mine needed ground out so much, I ended up welding a bead all the way around the port to make sure I wouldn't grind through. Just be sure to leave clearance for the bolts.
About the only way to get around this, is to purchase large tube headers that use adapter plates that bolt to the head. These plates bolt to the head with countersunk allen screws, then the head bolts to this plate with a larger bolt pattern. These plates allow for much larger primary tubes. You still get into grinding, though. The plates usually have undersized ports, since it is understood the installer will be grinding them out to match whatever head he will be using.
However, for 95% of the applications out there, simply grinding out the headers to match the heads is all that's needed. Make sure to grind them out plenty large enough, since the header will shift up, down, left or right as it's bolted up. It's also important to blend the 'port matching' down into the header as far as possible.
Placing a header gasket against the head, then the header will give an idea of how bad the mismatch is. As long as the header is larger than the head, all is good.
Good Luck!
About the only way to get around this, is to purchase large tube headers that use adapter plates that bolt to the head. These plates bolt to the head with countersunk allen screws, then the head bolts to this plate with a larger bolt pattern. These plates allow for much larger primary tubes. You still get into grinding, though. The plates usually have undersized ports, since it is understood the installer will be grinding them out to match whatever head he will be using.
However, for 95% of the applications out there, simply grinding out the headers to match the heads is all that's needed. Make sure to grind them out plenty large enough, since the header will shift up, down, left or right as it's bolted up. It's also important to blend the 'port matching' down into the header as far as possible.
Placing a header gasket against the head, then the header will give an idea of how bad the mismatch is. As long as the header is larger than the head, all is good.
Good Luck!
Joined
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3,776 Posts
i would get a set of kooks headers. the only way to go!!!!.mike how fast is your car??
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: tonys10sec306 on 6/1/03 7:16am ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: tonys10sec306 on 6/1/03 7:16am ]</font>
My friend Mr. GM Freak had to open up the ports on my 6208's to match them up to my VJ heads. It didn't need a lot of dremel time but if I didn't do this it would've been "choke city" for my 408W.
I had this done last Dec. before sending my Hookers out to get them ceramic coated.
You will be fine breaking out the dremel and doing some grinding on the headers you have now, beats shelling out more dough for a new set.
I had this done last Dec. before sending my Hookers out to get them ceramic coated.
You will be fine breaking out the dremel and doing some grinding on the headers you have now, beats shelling out more dough for a new set.
If you're talking to me, look in my signature. The mustangworks site has the complete specs of the 289 headed combo. It's usually run in the 1/8 mile, and has run 7.48 no bottle, and 6.74 @ 103 with it. It's still a 3300lb w/driver 306 powered streeter that runs just fine on 93 octane as long as the bottle stays turned off.
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