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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi,
i have a 65 hrdtop and i have a 302.
i am going to be putting in a 4 speed toploader but i do not have all the parts for it.
some guy has linkage that i need but i do not know if it will fit.
it was from a 65 sedan but his was a 3 speed amnual will all these work in my application.
thanx scott
 

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No problem...the stuff will work regardless if the car was a 3 speed or a 4 speed. Only problem might be the "Z" bar, that will most likely need to be from V8 model.
 

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The key is getting linkage from a V-8 car. All the linkage is from the bellhousing forward, so it doesn't matter what trans it came from.

I think a bigger question for you would be "Is a stock clutch going to hold up 500hp?" In my opinion, no. So you go to a stronger pressure plate and bingo- you just bent all your stock clutch linkage. I know. I've done it. The stock linkage just isn't up to anything other than a stock clutch. Your clutch pedal ends up sitting just off the floor and either your equalizer bar has bent or the long rod on the top has bent. In my quest to use the nice Hay's clutch, I spent 150 bucks getting the eq bar strengthened and straightened. I also put a piece of tight fitting pipe over the long linkage rod. Eventually I put a stock clutch in it and it works well though I only have about 250-275 hp.

I would recommend using an 11" clutch instead of the 10.5 stocker. You will get more surface area without adding pedal pressure.

As soon as I can find a good hydraulic system, I am going to that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hey 64pelican,
so you are saying that v8 linkages are a lot stroger tha 6 cyl.
what did you do to get the z bar stroger.
the other parts work fine just the z bar is weaker? or the whole set is weaker?
thanx
 

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I've never seen a 6 cyl z bar, I'm just guessing the motor widths are a little different. The first thing to strengthening the z bar is to weld steel rods around the bottom of the tube and up the sides of the arms. It is hard to explain but if you started welding a 5/16 rod down the arm toward the tube, beat it with a hammer as you go so it follows the tube around and goes back up the other side to the arm. I had this done to both arms but had to grind away about 90% of the frame side so it would clear the frame bracket. To make that side stronger, you can weld a thin ( 1/8 or 1/4 maybe) piece of flat steel stock to the inside of the arm that curves around the steering box. That is kinda hard because you need to follow the profile of the arm. You only need to go up just past the radius where it wants to twist.

I've got a picture of this heineous looking boat anchor if anyone wants to see it.

Email me at [email protected] if you want a pic.
 
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