Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My '64 Gal/460 won't even turn over without a battery charger, not even a 'click'. It worked fine before I pulled it in the garage to change the rear end and the interior. The only thing I did electricly was install a trans temp guage. Checked for proper grounds, seems fine, don't seem to be any dead shorts.
Turn the key to start, nothing, hook up the battery charger in 10 amp position, starts right up. I even tried it in the 2 amp position, clicked a couple of times but them it turned over. Tried it a couple more times and it turned over fine :confused:. Has 12.5 volts at the starter and about the same at the 100 amp alternator. When running the volt meter reads just under 14 volts.
I have the battery in the trunk with 1/0 welding cable and a battery shut off.
Thanks

EDIT...I thought it was the 8 month old battery and exchanged it for a new one, same thing. Battery is a Duralast Gold 800 amp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
My '64 Gal/460 won't even turn over without a battery charger, not even a 'click'. It worked fine before I pulled it in the garage to change the rear end and the interior. The only thing I did electricly was install a trans temp guage. Checked for proper grounds, seems fine, don't seem to be any dead shorts.
Turn the key to start, nothing, hook up the battery charger in 10 amp position, starts right up. I even tried it in the 2 amp position, clicked a couple of times but them it turned over. Tried it a couple more times and it turned over fine :confused:. Has 12.5 volts at the starter and about the same at the 100 amp alternator. When running the volt meter reads just under 14 volts.
I have the battery in the trunk with 1/0 welding cable and a battery shut off.
Thanks

EDIT...I thought it was the 8 month old battery and exchanged it for a new one, same thing. Battery is a Duralast Gold 800 amp.
I would suspect the ground circuit.. How do you have it grounded? And are the terminal ends on your welding cable making good connections?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've cleaned and brushed everything but I'll clean them again. Can't understand why it only would start with the help of my charger, though. Thanks guys. Talk to ya later :)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
21,759 Posts
I had this problem once many moons ago and it got to where i had 2 cars jump starting it at the same time to start it. Ended up being a cable that had always looked bad finally was bad. Changed it and it started great from then on. Another maybe is the starter dragging? I had one the bushing was coming out the end of the starter housing causing it to drag and the extra boost from jump starting or a charger would start it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I checked the only connections that I didn't check before, where the cables are connected to the terminal clamps. I had to use the lead ones that have a plate and two bolts that hold the cable. They looked clean but I got out the Dremel and shined them up, sprayed some PB Blaster (kinda like WD40) on them and the posts and tightened them up. Hit the started and Eureka, started right up. I started it up a few more times before letting it run. It was getting pretty hot (about 200*) because I was low on anti freeze so I shut it off to let it cool and filled the radiator. Hit the started NOTHING...WTF...ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. I even tried the battery charger, still nothing :confused:. The starter/solenoid and ignition switch are both new, but it seems to point in that direction.
Any suggestions??? PLEASE

P.S. good info PSIG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,855 Posts
Damn the bad luck!

GET A FRIGGIN TEST LIGHT, clamp one side to Ground, gator clip the Other side to the "S" side of the Starter Solenoid, TURN THE KEY.

If the light comes ON then you got a crap Solenoid, if the light does NOT go on then you got Crap Ignition switch or Wiring to the ignition switch. Or a Poor N~S switch.

There are further tests. Work THAT test first. Report back here.

Should take you no more than about 45 seconds to perform it and about 45 seconds to Prepare for the test.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The light came ON so I guess I have to replace the 'junk' autozone starter/solenoid.
Thanks FE, you are such a gentleman :tup:.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,855 Posts
The light came ON so I guess I have to replace the 'junk' autozone starter/solenoid.
Thanks FE, you are such a gentleman :tup:.
LOL gentleman... Hahahah, you said I'm a gentleman.... You are one kind person sir :)

I didn't mean to sound so gruff, but I generally have a set way to diagnose and it starts at the easiest point in the system, and that's the thing that makes the starter go GRRRRR. :)

Sometimes they take the charge and work and sometimes they dont. That's the test that makes or breaks it right there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,060 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Removed the starter/solenoid had it checked, bad news, it was GOOD. Found a little mom and pop shop, not a national chain. He said it put out more than most of that type. Got to checking the wires, ignition switch wire was good, pulled on the end of the one running to the NSS, pulled it off, it was literally hanging by a thread :rolleyes:. Thats probably why it would start when I hooked the battery charger up. I replaced both the wires and put socket type connectors on the ends to make it easier to remove, next time haha. Starts fine now, on to the next problem :).
Thanks again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,330 Posts
Is the car automatic? If so is neutral safety switch hooked up? If so check it.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top