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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having major cooling problems. I just had the motor built. This is what's trying to cool it:
A new 4 core radiator:
Edelbrock Victor Series aluminum water pump
March underdrive pulley
2 12 inch electric fans pulling 1600 cfms.
I knew it wasn't going to be near enough but guy who did the work said it should work fine.
Anyway, I bought a Black Magic fan that pulls 2800 cfms but it needs 4 1/4 inch and I only have room for around 3 1/2 inches. Okay, tell me if this would help: What if I bought one of those electric water pump drive kits and also used the overdrive pulleys that you can get with it. Also, would the electric motor be strong enough to pull one of those light weight plastic fans like Mr. Gasket has. Then I would have to relocate the electric fans and make them pushers. What's your suggestion?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 67stang351 on 5/5/02 5:29am ]</font>
 

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My guess is that you have a problem with something you have now. I run a 351 stroker in my 66 w/ a 3 row replacement radiator, stock fan, stock H2O pump, no shroud, A/C, and it never over heats. Have you tried having your radiator tanked? I also run 2 bottles of water wetter and %15 antifreeze, you might want to try that.
 

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That Setup is overkill it seems like. Whats the bore? whats the t-stat? You sure everything is working inside with the radiator? No blocked water passages? Are you running a mechanical gauge on the thing? whats it reading? Also i wouldnt run the electric pump drive if its an everyday driver. Good Luck and let us know....Ryan
 

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The equipment you have should work fine, but check the mounting.
Have you checked water-pump, that it is not for reverse rotation?
Checked rotation-direction on fans?
Tried another thermostat?
Make shure all sides of radiator is sealed against body?(you can use cardboard).
A small plastic fan on the pump is always a good idea, just for mooving all that hot air while city-cruising.

Cool drive!

Cobra2
NORWAY
 

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The FIRST thing to check, is to make sure the fan isn't wired up backwards. Make sure it blows towards the engine, not back through the radiator. This is easy to screw up, switch the wires, and it blows the wrong way. If it's wired like this, the fan FIGHTS the natural airflow.

Second question is WHEN does it heat up?

If it just heats up in traffic, and cools fine at speed... you've got plenty of radiator capacity, just a fan problem. If it won't cool at all, you need to look at the whole system.

When wiring the fan USE A RELAY! Running power all the way back to the interior through a toggle switch or someing kills off a LOT of the fans power. Use the toggle switch (and/or temp sensor) to trigger the relay for max power.

USE A SHROUD!!! Get some of that foam weatherstripping that is sticky on both sides. Stick it to the shroud, then place the shroud on the radiator.

I WAS using a plain ole' 16" electric fan on the mustang wired up without a relay, and since it didn't fit perfectly, it was 1/4" from the radiator fins. It cooled fine at speed, but on hot days would heat up in traffic. I saw a neat fan at the Columbus swap meet with a square built-in shroud that measured 15.75" x 15.75"... PERFECT fit for the mustang. It also had a 265W motor that sucks 22 amps! The fan itself only measure around 12", but when I got home and compared it to the 16" fan I had at home, the damn thing was a TORNADO! It has 11 high pitch curved 'S' blades and looks like some sort of OEM unit. Best of all, it only measures 3.25" deep, so it fits mustangs with thick radiators!
He said it draws 3000cfm, and the price was $150. He said he sells a LOT of them to street rodders. The fan is not quiet. If you want something quiet, he has another one that is larger and turns fewer rpm's. It draws the same airflow, but is thicker, and has a larger shroud. He has a website..

http://www.oldgoldclassics.com

...but I don't think these fans are on it. However, his contact information will be there. He can send you a color pamplet that has pictures and information about both fans. I was out of money, and had to order mine after getting home. I'm not affiliated, just impressed with the fan. It's the PERFECT size for an early mustang, and draws killer air.

Okay, rant off...

I use an aluminum radiator. You can get a universal (Nascar) Griffin with either 'Ford' or 'Chevy' hose locations with two one inch cores for $180 through Summit or Jegs. There will be a little fabrication required, but not much. Measure yours and compare those measurements to what they have in the catalog. Don't worry, all measurements are available in both varieties. You can check the Griffin website for all available part numbers.

http://www.griffinrad.com

But, if your car cools at speed, you shouldn't need one. It's just another option. The 'Ford' hose locations are the same as on a FOX mustang, the 'Chevy' being opposite that. You'll want to compare your car to a Fox to see which you need.

Of course, other basics like running a relatively 'weak' solution of antifreeze and running water wetter will help.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mike, to answer your question, temp. runs around 190-195 on a hot day @ 70 mph. Around 50 mph, if it's real hot outside, it hits 200. I know there's a lot of conflicting testimony about what's a good temp. to run but most of the articles I've read on the internet say that 195-200 is ideal operating temp. But yeah, a five minute idle will get it up to 220-230. I'm going to contact that guy you suggested with the "tornado" fan & probably buy one. I still think one of my main problems is the underdrive pulley to drive the water pump. I remember having a problem before when I put underdrive pulleys on a '92 Dakota(sorry guys, I must have been on drugs or something without knowing it, although the sucker turned a 14.8. The good news is that a guy with a Ford Ranger with a 6 could hang with me!)
Anyway, thanks for all the help, guys, and any other suggestions you have.
 

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When wiring up the electric fan, run a HEAVY gauge wire right from the output post off the alternator (the one that has the heavy wire to the battery) to the relay, then connect the relay's output right to the fan. You'll use the on/off switch to simply turn the relay on and off.

For those of you who don't know, a relay is just a high current switch that is activated by another switch. It uses a solonoid (electromagnet) to make the connection. A small current is sent to the relay by a low current switch, activating the solonoid, which makes the connection... and turns on the fan. They also work well for headlights, nitrous solonoids, mondo electric fuel pumps, etc.


Okay, focused again...

What thermostat is in the engine? If it is rated at 195 degrees, it will CUT OFF the coolant flow anytime the temperature drops below 195 degrees. A 180 cuts it off at 180, a 165 cuts it off at 165. If you have a 160 or 185 degree thermostat, and the engine still won't run under 195 degrees at speed, the cooling system is marginal. You might need to upgrade. Check the thermostat. You can place it in a pan of water on the stove with a meat thermometer to see where it opens.

I doubt the underdrive pulleys are hurting anything. I'm just using one of those Moroso external electric motors (with an overdrive pulley) to run my pump, and it seems to do okay. Since I'm running this 'weenie' pump, I removed the thermostat for freer flow. (I just wait until the engine comes up to temperature before turning the pump on) It also allows me to cool the engine down to room temperature at the track.
However, regular engine driven pumps NEED the thermostat in place. They can pump TOO fast without that restriction in place.

Good Luck!
 
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