Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was thinking of pulling the door panels off and lubing the window regulators. The drivers side is not too bad, but the passenger side is really binding.

I planned to get in there and get some grease on obvious moving parts.

Any advice out there? Normal grease? White lithium? Graphite? Maybe Liquid Wrench first to loosen up, then grease?

Are there any less obvious places that I should lube?

TIA

Sorry - this is on a 64 Galaxie XL convert.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Gordo on 1/9/07 10:40am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,468 Posts
If you liquid wrench it first the grease will not stick....

Blow out the channels and scrape out any old junky grease at the end of the tracks and hit the runners with bearing grease. I've used it for ages.

People say use regular lithium because its lighter and cheaper but it's not going to cost you a fortune to lube your wheels and tracks with regular bearing grease and it sticks better than lithium...

FE
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,572 Posts
FE is bang on with his statements.

While your in their get some regular motor oil and lube the levers on door latch too. Also a dab of grease on any lock rods ends and bellcranks. When I did my '64 Merc's the doors and windows started working like it was 1964 again! Stu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,502 Posts
I never took the door panels on my 64 apart but in all my other cars when the regulator meets the window they have round rollers that ALWAYS come apart and are loose fitting I normally replace these with a the ford replacement they are square and much higher quality.

Also clean the channels really really well I take a tooth brush to them If I am not taking them out of the car dry them, and then I use Aqua Lube since water can get in there it is kinda heavy but unlike white lithium it never gets hard which is nice.

Also on the door latch assemblies I would take them out they use the same type of grease that the window channels use and as you know it gets hard and sticky after years of use put them in a parts washer or just scrub them down with whatever you have I used a toothbrush and fast orange worked ok then I hand packed it with Aqua Lube like you would bearings if you didnt have a bearing packer. Then I operated it a bunch making it latch and unlatch (should do this also when cleaning it) to get all the extra grease to come out so it does not get everywhere after that you should have great working door latches.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dbu8554 on 1/10/07 2:33am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tips! Weather is getting cold and lousy .... great time to heat up the garage and take a car apart. Then I get to put on my new arm rests, which started all this foolishness in the first place!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Gordo on 1/10/07 1:09pm ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Hello...I'd like to start up this discussion again. I also have a 64 Galaxie XL convertible where I am pulling out the window channel and regulators for cleaning, adjustment, and lube. You currently need arms of Hercules to roll the windows up and down. I will clean out the old grease from the roller channels and sector gear and install new window channel felt and new rollers. I'm surprised at the recommendation to lube the rollers with lithium or bearing grease. The rollers are a polymer and it seems a petroleum based grease is not a good idea. The manual suggests silicone on the rollers which sounds good but I am concerned about how long it will last. The same goes for all the rods in the lock and door latch mechanism. The ends are all in plastic bushings. For the sector and linkages, bearing or lithium would be ok but I'm curious which is better. Any new ideas? Thanks!

Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
Could try Fluid Film. (or other wool wax products)

Automotive | Fluid Film

It's safe for plastics, has lubricating and corrosion preventive properties. Non-hazardous/non-toxic.
Doesn't dry out.

I use it to stop battery post corrosion and lubricate various latches and hinges.
Works great!

Window mechanisms are listed under uses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,133 Posts
Hello...I'd like to start up this discussion again. I also have a 64 Galaxie XL convertible where I am pulling out the window channel and regulators for cleaning, adjustment, and lube. You currently need arms of Hercules to roll the windows up and down. I will clean out the old grease from the roller channels and sector gear and install new window channel felt and new rollers. I'm surprised at the recommendation to lube the rollers with lithium or bearing grease. The rollers are a polymer and it seems a petroleum based grease is not a good idea. The manual suggests silicone on the rollers which sounds good but I am concerned about how long it will last. The same goes for all the rods in the lock and door latch mechanism. The ends are all in plastic bushings. For the sector and linkages, bearing or lithium would be ok but I'm curious which is better. Any new ideas? Thanks!

Gary
Hello garygalaxie,

Another product to consider is Magnalube. magnalube | Magnalube-G I've been using this for several years and it works wonders especially for automotive door bits. It's waterproof, synthetic has Teflon in it and a wide temperature range without turning into peanut butter at cold temps like other greases. It works great on window parts.

It's a bit pricey, but it's sold in small tube to regular size grease cartridges and you can order them from E-Bay or Amazon.

Just thoughts....

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
Hello garygalaxie,

Another product to consider is Magnalube. magnalube | Magnalube-G I've been using this for several years and it works wonders especially for automotive door bits. It's waterproof, synthetic has Teflon in it and a wide temperature range without turning into peanut butter at cold temps like other greases. It works great on window parts.

It's a bit pricey, but it's sold in small tube to regular size grease cartridges and you can order them from E-Bay or Amazon.

Just thoughts....

Cheers
Looks like good stuff, thanks for posting.

Safe on plastics I assume?

I couldn't find that specifically mentioned, but it lists electronics and computers in the applications so I assume it's ok.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Hello DesertXL...I have the same question that galaxies asks about its suitability with plastics. That was my biggest concern with using bearing grease on the plastic window rollers. I do have experience with using Polyurea grease in small ball bearings used in non-automotive low rpm applications. It enables very smooth operation. I appreciate your recommendation.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,601 Posts
I cleaned off my rollers and regulators but afterwards when I park and close the door behind me the window often drops 1/2". If it rains that night, inside gets wet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
one thing to try when your door panels are off is to mark where the regulators are set with the bolts etc, and then remove the bolts so the regulators hang free. Remove them from the channels that they run n on the bottom of the windows and dry raising and lowering the windows by hand.
That will tell you whether the issue is with the regulators or with the channels that the windows run in, which have a velvet-like material in them for the windows to slide in, by it wears out and can jam up in the channels making the windows hard to move. To replace the material, you need to remove the channels and clean them out then replace the material. Not an insignificant job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Hello...I'd like to start up this discussion again. I also have a 64 Galaxie XL convertible where I am pulling out the window channel and regulators for cleaning, adjustment, and lube. You currently need arms of Hercules to roll the windows up and down. I will clean out the old grease from the roller channels and sector gear and install new window channel felt and new rollers. I'm surprised at the recommendation to lube the rollers with lithium or bearing grease. The rollers are a polymer and it seems a petroleum based grease is not a good idea. The manual suggests silicone on the rollers which sounds good but I am concerned about how long it will last. The same goes for all the rods in the lock and door latch mechanism. The ends are all in plastic bushings. For the sector and linkages, bearing or lithium would be ok but I'm curious which is better. Any new ideas? Thanks! Gary


(reply)
Hey guys just reading thru all this and will jump in about the roller channels. I have a 63 1/2 galaxie 500 xl and the windows work great BUT I had a 1955 T-Bird and I had to rebuild both door regulators and scissors and side channels. When I took out the polymer rollers, they were a real mess. I ordered new metal rollers to replace them and the windows worked like new for several years at least until I sold it. I don't remember where I got the metal rollers but they were a perfect replacement for the polymer rollers. I had been using Larry Evenson at Concours parts for all my parts for my T-Bird so I am sure I got them thru him. that's been about 9 or 10 years ago so I am not sure or not. But I went out in my shop and found a sack of 4 of the metal rollers that I still have. Maybe someone can chime in if they know a supplier for the metal rollers.
Bud
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,133 Posts
Hello DesertXL...I have the same question that galaxies asks about its suitability with plastics. That was my biggest concern with using bearing grease on the plastic window rollers. I do have experience with using Polyurea grease in small ball bearings used in non-automotive low rpm applications. It enables very smooth operation. I appreciate your recommendation.
Hello garygalaxie,

I tried contacting Magnalube via email regarding testing on plastics for concrete evidence, but so far no response back. For a while I worked at a big pharmaceutical in calibrations and analytical (chemistry) lab, Magnalube was specified by Hitachi on their auto samplers. The carriage was plastic and the rails were of course metal. The plastic was probably either ABS with glass or PC with glass. I found some minor references online that it's safe for plastics but I was really looking for the concrete evidence from the supplier.

I've been using it for over 10 years on assorted items and so far I haven't found any ill effects. If I hear back from Magnalube I'll post what they tell me.

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,133 Posts
I cleaned off my rollers and regulators but afterwards when I park and close the door behind me the window often drops 1/2". If it rains that night, inside gets wet.
Hello puttster,

When the window falls like that usually the one way clutch in the window winder is either broken or so caked with hardened grease it can no longer function. The only resort is to remove the one way clutch from the window regulator clean and or replace if broken and assemble.

I did a whole segment on a complete door window and latch cleaning, greasing and replacing rollers if you're interested. I also removed the one way clutch, clean, lubricate and rivet back to the regulator.

If you're curious have a look, it was done on a '68 LTD parts car. 1968 LTD Rear Door Window & Latch Repair

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,133 Posts
Hello again,

I had this and wanted to share about the different kinds of grease, their components and the effects upon plastics and such. It's a simple overview and you may find it very informative. It's attached as a PDF.

Cheers
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Hello puttster,

When the window falls like that usually the one way clutch in the window winder is either broken or so caked with hardened grease it can no longer function. The only resort is to remove the one way clutch from the window regulator clean and or replace if broken and assemble.

I did a whole segment on a complete door window and latch cleaning, greasing and replacing rollers if you're interested. I also removed the one way clutch, clean, lubricate and rivet back to the regulator.

If you're curious have a look, it was done on a '68 LTD parts car. 1968 LTD Rear Door Window & Latch Repair

Cheers
Hello DesertXL,

I'll be very interested if you hear back from MagnaLube. I really appreciate the link to your segment on door window latch repair and cleaning. I'll be trying much of the same on the front door of my 64 XL convertible. You had a lot of nice details and pointers. Nice work. Thanks.

Gary
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,601 Posts
Hello puttster,
When the window falls like that usually the one way clutch in the window winder is either broken or so caked with hardened grease it can no longer function. The only resort is to remove the one way clutch from the window regulator clean and or replace if broken and assemble.
If you're curious have a look, it was done on a '68 LTD parts car. 1968 LTD Rear Door Window & Latch Repair
I was curious and I did take a look at your outstanding presentation.
I'm thinking because it is the drivers door the clutch is probably broken, not just gummed up. Who sells them -
one way window clutch.jpg
or better, can I swap the front with one from the rear? Also, can the clutch be replaced with screws instead of rivets, do you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,133 Posts
I was curious and I did take a look at your outstanding presentation.
I'm thinking because it is the drivers door the clutch is probably broken, not just gummed up. Who sells them - View attachment 164555 or better, can I swap the front with one from the rear? Also, can the clutch be replaced with screws instead of rivets, do you think?
Hello puttster,

I have seen the one way clutch assemblies reproduced but they said they only fit Falcon. I mean they look similar, but it would be a pricy gamble. Otherwise I don't know of anyone reproducing them for the 3rd gen full size market. Your only bet may be used. I do have loads of window regulators from parts cars and cars I've converted to power windows. I do have 1 one way clutch removed, walnut blasted (cleaned) and inspected and it's a good used part. In fact it's been sitting at my work desk for ages. If you take yours apart and find it is indeed broken, then feel free to email me.

As for using machine screws and nuts, I don't see any problems with that, just be sure to use a good quality hardware (no soft cheap steel) and lock washers. The tricky one is going to be under the spur gear. You may have to try and find a phillips truss head screw to clear the large gear without rubbing or blocking it. The rivets I used are hardened solid rivets as opposed to soft rivets normally sold. When you use the hand crank it does place a fair bit of loading on the clutch assembly to regular frame and it can loosen or stretch cheap/incorrect hardware. Ford uses steel solid rivets for a reason.

To set the hardened rivets I have to use a bucking bar, and the air hammer rivet tip of the appropriate size and use the air hammer. The rivets I used are aircraft structural rivets.

Good Luck
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top