Hey guys, I will be putting in my windshield shortly and I'm looking for tips. I have only seen it done once an it was a long time ago. I remember we put the seal around the windshield, then put rope into the outter channel of the seal all the way around and taped the end to the inside of the glass. We put the glass in position on the car, and then from the inside pulled the rope out all the way around. This flipped the inside lip of the seal around the window frame to "pop" it in, but I don't remember when we put the sealant in or what kind of sealant it was. What are your tips or tricks and what sealant do you use? Thanks
windshield install
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I did the front windshield on my Mustang a couple years ago. You have correct ideas.
I went and obtained one of the black mastic tubes from auto body shop. It mounts in standard painter's squeeze gun. Put the mastic down into groove before installing the seal onto windshield. I found it took about 1/8" dia hole off the tip to get proper amount down in there. Also found it takes about one whole tube to do the windshield so don't get beyond 1/2 and half.
After mounting the seal onto the windshield the body groove gets the remainder of the tube. Now, before getting this far, the headliner is tucked under the upper of the seal. So make sure it is stuck tight for your maneuvering will unhindge it there.
Next, I got the rope in there, but the crossover point was near the lower corner by driver's position. I jambed the windshield and seal into that corner, then pushed like hell on them both. Then go vertical in pulling out the rope. Hold things in place still, for if it pops out, you have to start over.
Once you get the rope pulled out, and seal popped in along vertical portion of driver's side then keep pulling and go across the top edge. Watch that the headliner does not pop out, and keep a constant push towards the driver's side, for once the rope gets pulled off in the vicinity of the passenger post, it is too late to try and shift the heavy piece of glass over again. Once you head down the passenger post, you are pretty well free then.
I used some very weak mineral paint thinner to sop up the excess black goo.
Oh, and I tried that silicone stuff you get from Home Depot in a $4 tube, and it swells up everything before the glass and seal is installed. Yes, the black is more expensive, but works better too.
Wm.
I went and obtained one of the black mastic tubes from auto body shop. It mounts in standard painter's squeeze gun. Put the mastic down into groove before installing the seal onto windshield. I found it took about 1/8" dia hole off the tip to get proper amount down in there. Also found it takes about one whole tube to do the windshield so don't get beyond 1/2 and half.
After mounting the seal onto the windshield the body groove gets the remainder of the tube. Now, before getting this far, the headliner is tucked under the upper of the seal. So make sure it is stuck tight for your maneuvering will unhindge it there.
Next, I got the rope in there, but the crossover point was near the lower corner by driver's position. I jambed the windshield and seal into that corner, then pushed like hell on them both. Then go vertical in pulling out the rope. Hold things in place still, for if it pops out, you have to start over.
Once you get the rope pulled out, and seal popped in along vertical portion of driver's side then keep pulling and go across the top edge. Watch that the headliner does not pop out, and keep a constant push towards the driver's side, for once the rope gets pulled off in the vicinity of the passenger post, it is too late to try and shift the heavy piece of glass over again. Once you head down the passenger post, you are pretty well free then.
I used some very weak mineral paint thinner to sop up the excess black goo.
Oh, and I tried that silicone stuff you get from Home Depot in a $4 tube, and it swells up everything before the glass and seal is installed. Yes, the black is more expensive, but works better too.
Wm.
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2,187 Posts
Dave;
Either there is no sealant or very little. On mine, I replaced the whole roof of the car, park it outside in hot Palm Springs weather, and it still does not leak.
I wish there were a way to remove the W/S and keep good rubber seal, but have yet to find one. Many-many years ago, I removed a cracked W/S and tryed installing new (used) one with same old seal. The car was whacked, and was now smaller around the windshield frame flange. After a good two hours effort, it then cracked overnight. I then removed it and used hydraulic jack to spead flanges, and new seal and new W/S and it satyed in tight until the car wholloped another.
Wm.
Either there is no sealant or very little. On mine, I replaced the whole roof of the car, park it outside in hot Palm Springs weather, and it still does not leak.
I wish there were a way to remove the W/S and keep good rubber seal, but have yet to find one. Many-many years ago, I removed a cracked W/S and tryed installing new (used) one with same old seal. The car was whacked, and was now smaller around the windshield frame flange. After a good two hours effort, it then cracked overnight. I then removed it and used hydraulic jack to spead flanges, and new seal and new W/S and it satyed in tight until the car wholloped another.
Wm.
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You can put them on but you need to be CAREFUL not to gouge the paint off...
Use a two pronged fork or a WIDE regular screw driver with a 1/8" groove cut into the center.
Hold the rubber up with a piece of thin wood and slip on the clip with the modified screwdriver...
Use a two pronged fork or a WIDE regular screw driver with a 1/8" groove cut into the center.
Hold the rubber up with a piece of thin wood and slip on the clip with the modified screwdriver...
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2,191 Posts
Im not sure about Mustangs, but I just helped the glass guy install my new windshield on my Falcon and he used no eurothane or sealant of any kind. No leaks. Also, the stainless trim is installed into the rubber before the whole thing is put into the car. As well, be carefull as the windshield is not tempered, just laminated. It will crack easily. On my rear window he used a rubber mallet to make sure it was set, but on the front he was extra carefull to make sure it was seated as the rope was pulled out. Started at the bottom center and worked it out to the sides, the whole time he had me apply light pressure from the top down. Then he worked th sides as I gently pushed in. Then the top as I pushed from the outside. He was quite specific as to where I pushed and how much pressure I applied. For the front and rear windows it took him a little less than 2 hours. I washed the car today and there is definately no leaks. Good luck.
Matt
Matt
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