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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking of building a 393W stroker as I acquired most of the necessary pieces from someone who needed cash. So far I've got a '74 Windsor block - std bore, an Eagle 3.80" crank, set of stock refinished rods, and the correct Probe pistons for this combo. Also came with a set of Windsor Sr heads.

I should mention that this is going in my '69 Ranchero, so I'm looking more for torque (as I actually haul stuff in it), rather than making big power. Rest of car is a T-5z, and 3:89 Equal lock (yea, I know, but it works).

I've searched all over and understand that while not perfect, these heads are hard to beat for the money, but everyone I see seems to be running them on smaller engines, 302's and 351's.

My concern is that I'll be choking this engine with these kinda small heads. However, given my goals for this - torgue - I'm not sure if that's a valid concern of not.

Looking for the FM guys expertise here.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
 

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The W-Sr heads can work for a lower-rpm engine. The heads aren't so hot out of the box, but with mild smoothing and blending (not hogging or substantial reshaping) with sanding rolls and flappers, they can flow about like plain standard AFR 185s. Combine that with a suitable cam and you should be fine for a work car.

I assume you meant 3.85" crank? And, what # are the "correct" Probe pistons you have? Just checking to be sure the cam will work with it all, and on pump gas.

BTW - the Equa-Loc is excellent for the street, and especially if your Ranchero bed is empty, as it will allow one tire to maintain traction if grossly overpowered. This can be much safer than locking diffs that will allow the rear to break entirely loose on turns and such. If it's in good condition and working properly, it's well suited to your car's purpose.
:tup:
David
 

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I'm thinking of building a 393W stroker as I acquired most of the necessary pieces from someone who needed cash. So far I've got a '74 Windsor block - std bore, an Eagle 3.80" crank, set of stock refinished rods, and the correct Probe pistons for this combo. Also came with a set of Windsor Sr heads.

I should mention that this is going in my '69 Ranchero, so I'm looking more for torque (as I actually haul stuff in it), rather than making big power. Rest of car is a T-5z, and 3:89 Equal lock (yea, I know, but it works).

I've searched all over and understand that while not perfect, these heads are hard to beat for the money, but everyone I see seems to be running them on smaller engines, 302's and 351's.

My concern is that I'll be choking this engine with these kinda small heads. However, given my goals for this - torgue - I'm not sure if that's a valid concern of not.

Looking for the FM guys expertise here.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
approximate flow data @ .500 lift

cleveland 2v 180 . 153

w sr iron . . .235 . 140

w sr alum . . .219 . 146

its odd the iron flows more than the aluminum. i would verify this.

either way they will be fine for a torquey engine up to around 3000 rpm, lol. you can gain some flow by back cutting the intakes if they are not already. also $250.00 worth of bowl and guide work will greatly increase flow.

in both cases, the exhaust flow SUCKS SUCKS SUCKS.

exactly what cam, intake and exhaust are you running? the parts should match

i would look at a comp xe268h but because of your 3.89 gears and super low first gear etc., if it was me, i would consider a comp xe274h and port the heads a bit. it will rip from around 2000 - 5200 rpm.
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Discussion Starter #4
I assume you meant 3.85" crank? And, what # are the "correct" Probe pistons you have? Just checking to be sure the cam will work with it all, and on pump gas.
The pistons are p/n: P2482 in .030" over. I believe the Windsor Sr. heads are 64cc - thus, if I understand it correctly, I should end up with about 10:1. Would be nice to verify that though.

BTW - the Equa-Loc is excellent for the street, and especially if your Ranchero bed is empty, as it will allow one tire to maintain traction if grossly overpowered. This can be much safer than locking diffs that will allow the rear to break entirely loose on turns and such. If it's in good condition and working properly, it's well suited to your car's purpose.
:tup:
David
I actually don't have any complaints about it. My dad & I rebuilt it about 25 years ago. It's been run in several small block and big block that he or I have owned. With the .62 overdrive, it's surprisingly livable on the freeway - about 2200 rpm. And around town, it's SO MUCH BETTER than the 3:00's that came in the car!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
approximate flow data @ .500 lift

cleveland 2v 180 . 153

w sr iron . . .235 . 140

w sr alum . . .219 . 146

its odd the iron flows more than the aluminum. i would verify this.

either way they will be fine for a torquey engine up to around 3000 rpm, lol. you can gain some flow by back cutting the intakes if they are not already. also $250.00 worth of bowl and guide work will greatly increase flow.

in both cases, the exhaust flow SUCKS SUCKS SUCKS.

exactly what cam, intake and exhaust are you running? the parts should match

i would look at a comp xe268h but because of your 3.89 gears and super low first gear etc., if it was me, i would consider a comp xe274h and port the heads a bit. it will rip from around 2000 - 5200 rpm.
Well, topping out at 3000 is a bit low for me :). I usually don't even shift out of first before that.

I used camquest.com and the recommended cam it cam back with was a XR264RF-HR (hydraulic roller), which I think is pretty close to the XE268?

I'll definetely have to break down the heads and open them up a bit. I've done a bit of searching around and the main areas to focus on seems to in the bowl, under the seats, and the throat around the short turn. It does make me a tad nervous though - how much can I safely remove?
 

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Well, topping out at 3000 is a bit low for me :). I usually don't even shift out of first before that.

I used camquest.com and the recommended cam it cam back with was a XR264RF-HR (hydraulic roller), which I think is pretty close to the XE268?

I'll definetely have to break down the heads and open them up a bit. I've done a bit of searching around and the main areas to focus on seems to in the bowl, under the seats, and the throat around the short turn. It does make me a tad nervous though - how much can I safely remove?
hello;

oh it won't top out there but that will be around the peak of the tq. those heads will pull decent past that. its complicated.

PLEEEEEASE do not run that cam. you will HATE it if you shift at close to 3000 rpm when just cruising. if you ever want to rev drive it even half way hard that cam is useless in a 393 imo. my dog can run faster than that cam will make your car go. if you want a roller at least get the one below. the rpm range will be less than advertised.

35-421-8 - Xtreme Energyâ„¢ Retro-Fit, Hydraulic Roller Camshafts, For engines that DID NOT come from the factory with hydraulic roller cams, NOT FOR E.F.I.


need to see the port close up with the valves out but if you have never done this and aren't good with a die grinder i wouldn't.
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Discussion Starter #7
Wow, that bad, eh?

That's why I wanted to get everyones feedback - thanks for pointing out about the cam, it sounds like I wouldn't have been too happy with it.

Also, I was reading on another board, that the Extreme Energy cam have very "noisy" lobe profiles. Something about the quick ramp of the lobe makes the valvetrain very noisy when it's running.

Anyone else hear that?
 

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Wow, that bad, eh?

That's why I wanted to get everyones feedback - thanks for pointing out about the cam, it sounds like I wouldn't have been too happy with it.

Also, I was reading on another board, that the Extreme Energy cam have very "noisy" lobe profiles. Something about the quick ramp of the lobe makes the valvetrain very noisy when it's running.

Anyone else hear that?
hello . . it is not the cam making noise it is the pos comp lifters but all these experts are too unintelligent to figure that out . do not use comp lifters . their cams are fine.
 
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