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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What all is involved in building a 351w stroker?..Does the block have to be clearanced or run a small circle camshaft,anything wierd like that?....Can you literally buy one of those kits(crank rods pistons) and just throw it into your freshly machined block?...I live in a GM town so I have to get my facts straight before I talk to machine shops..
 

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i just got my 408 going in my bronco. you do have to clearance. mine didnt take much at all. mainly at the bottom of the cyl skirts. i am running h beam rods with cap screw rod bolts. as far as a cam goes i think a small base circle cam needs to be used if you use a roller cam in a non roller block and want to run stock lifters. i could be wrong.
the biggest thing is research. be sure of what you want.
 

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just clearancing on the the bottom of the cylinders, very simple to do a home. No need for reduced base circle cams. Its a very straightforward build.
 

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It really depends on the kit you are using. Ive done several 393s and the only block clearancing was by the oil pump pad.
2 of them required clearancing the oil pump slightly.

and then I did a 424 (4.1 stroke X 4.06) and no clearancing anywhere.

There is nothing hard about it , it just takes a little time to mach everything up.
 

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The articles mentioned had some good information but they are a bit outdated. With all the aftermarket W stroker cranks available now there is very little reason to modify a 400 crank, use Mopar rods or use Chevy pistons. It's much easier and cheaper to go with aftermarket parts.
 

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Very easy to do, an hour or so with a a dremil tool.

The first one I put together used a stock oil pan, and I had to tap an ever so small indentation in the oil pan near the back where the oil pan rail cuts back. This would have been very easy to overlook. Check with clay on the oil pan just below the pan rail.

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65 Fastback:393W, G-Force T5, 4.33:1 Moser N-pro case / 31 spline axles, 4 wheel Disc

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: jeffstar on 11/4/06 1:19pm ]</font>
 

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Scat 3.85 crank and Scat Ford journal rods in a 393w here. I needed to clearance the oil pan rail (mostly near the oil pump) and notch the bottom of the cylinders for a couple of the cap screw heads. As mentioned, very easy to do with a dremel. You must assemble the crank in the block with bearings and also install a rod piston assembly into each cylinder to check. I bought one extra rod bearing just for testing and used it on each journal. I tossed it when I was done just so I could have all new parts for the final build.

Smaller base camshaft is not needed and should be avoided, if at all possible, in any performance applilcation.
 

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Yes the articles I listed are old. I found them some time back when I was thinking about a 351. I haven't seen anything recent. Everyone writes about 302 strokers. I really meant them to just show potenial. Maybe FordMuscle might think about do a good 351 stroker, hint,hint.
 

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On 2006-11-04 07:15, jetnoise wrote:
On 2006-11-04 03:16, dennis111 wrote:

Smaller base camshaft is not needed and should be avoided, if at all possible, in any performance applilcation.

Why is that?
besides selection being extremely thin, they reak havoc at rpm, valvetrain harmonics are a killer. There just junk in a performance application
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So what seems to make or break the clearancing issue..Is it the stroke or the connecting rod style/journal size ?
 

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the stroke of the crank in combination with the rod used. Do NOT let a 30 minute job of clearancing sway you into a smaller windsor.
 

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On 2006-11-04 09:14, frdnut wrote:
So what seems to make or break the clearancing issue..Is it the stroke or the connecting rod style/journal size ?
Of course that depends on how big you want to go. For a 393 or a 408, it is normally a journal size problem. Use the smaller journal SSC stuff for more clearance. I am not sure, but doubt a 418w can be built without some clearancing.

It can also be a function of the block used and inaccuracies in the base casting. An Eagle rod may clear better than a Scat, a capscrew connecting rod bolt may have more clearance than a normal stud and nut.

The grinding work for either combination is very minor, easy to understand, and best of all--worth it!
 

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On 2006-11-04 09:14, frdnut wrote:
So what seems to make or break the clearancing issue..Is it the stroke or the connecting rod style/journal size ?

Well any one of the three or combination of the three can affect clearance. I agree with the others that the clearancing needed in any case is not that tuff. I do know that the smallblock chevy rod journal rods big end is smaller is overall size and in conjuction with the 3.85 crank its a drop in. In some cases I have heard guys say that even with the 4 inch stroke with the sbc big end H beam rod needing no clearancing. I would always mock up the cranktrain and check all clearances.
 

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I've run both the early block with reduced base circle cam and the late SVO block with a standard cam.

The RBC cam is not a problem. The motor made plenty of power to 6500 which is typical for a hydraulic roller. Never had any issues with that and still have the cam, rollers, spyders. This option is definitely cheaper than the standard base circle (late model) cam + high-dollar lifters. You decide. Personally with a stroker that large I recommend good heads and a solid roller cam but that's another thread.

Just make sure you get the ET + HP (or MPH) from those giving you advice and see who's making power (and knows how) and those who just talk.
 
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