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I took my 460 apart today and #5 intake cam lobe is shot. The lifter barely cam out. The bottom was not smooth to say the least. It wasn't ground all the way through, ala the Fordmuscle 428, but the bottom was all kinds of wavy and you could see where it would spin, then grind, then spin, then grind some more. The cam lobe has definite grooves in it. I haven't got the cam out, but it's shot. The rest of the lobes and the lifters are all perfect. The lifter bore still looks fine.
Does anybody have any experience with Comp Cams warranty department? This cam was broken in "right" and I used all new valve train components.
What's the name of the GM additive that you're supposed to use to break a cam in. I've got to get me some of that.
In conclusion, I'm pissed. But at least I now have some direction and Comp should buy me a new cam. Anybody want to buy me a beer?
 

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Comp Cams replaced one for me ... also replaced some Magnum rockers as well.

As soon as I got the replacements I sold them and bought a full roller set-up ...

For the very reason you are writing ... I swear to God I will never build another engine that isn't "Full Roller."

My two cents
 

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Sorry to hear about your cam
The same thing happened to me earlier this summer...302ci. in my boat....Engle cam...They went good for the cam,lifters and gaskets....next cam break in went much better...I washed the engine out the best i could with varsol...put new oil in and got 1 of those magnetic filter straps to catch the steel i missed also a magnetic drain plug...Run the engine,broke in the new cam for 40min,,,drained the oil put new oil in and it ran great all summer...I cut the filter open and there was a lot of steel on the filter housing were the magnet strap was....don't imagine that did my oil pump much good....I'm going to pull the engine this winter and look at the bearings to see how much steel got in them.....Good luck...Russ....
 

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On 2002-01-05 20:27, MonsterMach wrote:

I swear to God I will never build another engine that isn't "Full Roller."
I hate to break the news to ya, but rollers are not indestructible. I have wiped out a lobe twice. In racing conditions, any thing can happen, but one of these times I was driving on the street. If a lifter turns out of alignment with the lobe just a little, your screwed. Cost of the replacement cam and lifters is VERY expensive, as you already know.
I'm not really bashing rollers, I just don't want people to think that they are indestructable.
 

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been there.........done that.......first little 357, wiped a couple of lobes on a 630 lift solid tappet cam. (still ran 11.0's on it tho).....wonder what it would have run with all 8 cylinders contributing fully?....
anyway. last cam, (crane), really took it easy. only outer springs for 20 minutes run time, (gentle, gentle), already had the gm additive, OES in it. Made it all season , no problems. Hopefully run it next season as well. My .0028)
 

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HOW MANY TIMES HAVE I POSTED THIS??????? G.M. engine oil supplement. Two pints and keep the RPMS up! 1500-2500 and vary the RPMS for the 30 min break-in. THEN change the oil and filter. I have had great success with this method. Have not wiped a cam yet! I wish I knew your exact method so we could all learn from it, as life is too short to learn from only your own mistakes.
 

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I wiped out a comp cam this spring. It had about 3 hours on it. I did everything right and have no idea what went wrong. I immediately bought a new cam, lifters, etc and sent the old ones back with a nice little letter. After about 1 month Comp Cams sent me a new cam and lifters with a note back saying "there was nothing wrong with the hardness of the cam but they will send me another anyway for public relations reasons." Well, I sent their replacement back to them saying I wanted a refund because I bought a replacement cam from them already. So, after about another 5 months of coorespondence and phone calls back and forth I received my refund. Oh, by the way. The new cam has worked great for the last 3000 miles.
 

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Am I the only one here with a Cam Research cam, they break it in before they send it to you.
 

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Hey paxtonman, just wondering how you like your cam research camshaft? We've got one on order right now and yeah we're having it broke in.
 

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I wouldn't want to imply that a roller is "Indistructable" But I'll take the odds on getting a roller set-up through break-in over a flat tappet set-up any day of the week.

Then when you add the additional efficiencies and capabilities of roller on top of that ... it becomes no contest in my mind.

Guess this post got 4 cents out of me.
 

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I have heard you should put the EOS all over the rockers etc. Do you guys coat the cam in it too? Or just use the moly lube?
 

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Kansas, so far so good, only ran for couple hours but it seems ok. The lifter faces look good when you get it. Nice spiral pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Russ, I remember you now. I'm sure you feel my pain.
Break in was per manufacturers instructions. I used the supplied lube on the cam, the lifter faces, I even filled the pushrods with oil before I put them in. The parts sat for one day before I got the top and front on the motor buttoned up enough to fire it. I got the motor started after roughly 10-15 full turns of the crank. Timing issues and fuel starvation mostly. I had swaped heads and had it apart for the better part of 1.5 months. I immediately ran it up to 2000+ rpm and varied the revs for the mandatory 20 minutes. Then I changed the oil and filter and went for a drive. It ran very good after I got it tuned in. Like I said, I broke it in "right", now this **** happens. Somebody tell me what went wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe all I needed was the magic EOS for success, maybe the moon was in the wrong phase, who the hell knows. It's moot now.
I'll finish pulling the cam tonight after work. I'll try to take a polaroid and scan the pictures. Maybe send them to Dark for posting. Then you too can see the carnage.
 

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YEP.

I will be firing my Cleveland up in a few months (when the f*^ker finishes it), and have almost all parts for it, just need a good carb, and deciding on a distributor and clutch for it.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No I haven't. I assume I would need to do this to debur or take any scratches out after the lifter bore??? Would a brake cylinder hone be small enough for that?
 
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